Rebuild time

[Pkeen]

Now is a good time to change out those heater hoses to the 2012 or later to get them off the engine.

[joshnmn]

And the oil heater. I mean cooler

[J35Y2]

Originally Posted by joshnmn

And the oil heater. I mean cooler

This. It would be ideal to switch to a 25 or 30-row cooler, with a thermostat at the oil pan feed. I personally run a 200 F degree t-stat at the oil pan feed, for my air to oil cooler, which is a 25-row cooler. I've mounted the oil cooler in the front end, using the factory bolt holes on the upper radiator support behind the front bumper.

Looks like you have a 2010 SS, so if you don't want to re-use the upper radiator hose, you'll need to get the 12-15 SS upper radiator hose. You can keep the factory two-piece upper radiator hose (cheaper option), but you'll need to get rid of the "T" split adapter in the middle of the radiator hose, and then get a hose joint connector, to connect the two halves of the hose together.

[J35Y2]

Originally Posted by Pkeen

Now is a good time to change out those heater hoses to the 2012 or later to get them off the engine.

I recommend getting the OEM 12-15 heater hoses, since they have hard lines that bend right at the heater core connections. They also have a place you can hook up the heater hose, to a small hole in the chassis. If you choose to go with just plain heater hoses, they won't really be able to bend much, and they'll be in the way, above the passenger side engine head hardware/electronics. Katech sells a heater hose relocation kit, which includes worm gear hose clamps and some pre-cut heater hose sections, to wrap around both heater hoses, where they will contact sharp edges.

It's not the end of the world for maintenance if you go with the plain heater hoses, but it's certainly a cheaper option. You'll need one 3/4" diameter hose and a 5/8" inch one (I forget the length needed). The heater hose connections that go to the metal ports, are going to be the worst to remove. With 15+ years of heat cycling, you'll most likely have to cut the ends of the hoses, and then get a pick or flathead screwdriver, to pry and lift up the hose ends.

While you're working on the engine, you should probably flip the fuel rail if you want to clean up the engine bay. You can use either a C5 or C6 Corvette OEM factory fuel hose, to connect to the fuel rail once you flip it. This reduces all the bends that the super long hard fuel line goes, to get to the fuel rails and into the injectors. You can also re-route the EVAP/purge valve hard line, that originally goes above the throttle body.

[joshnmn]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

Looks like maybe the guy who owned in before you (unless you bought it new) hade a rocker failure. To answer your question, no there's not anything else in the engine that uses needle bearings.

Thought so too Joe, but I found out where they’re coming from. I got the pesky lifter out. Turns out that if you pull the cam, it would go in but not come out.

Don’t know if it was cause or effect, but this lifter got destroyed somehow. The cam chewed through the roller, all the way down far enough to release the needle bearings that support it. The red line is pointing to them.

Full rebuild it is…

[morepowerjoe]

Man that's crazy. What I'm thinking is that those needles from the rocker failure in the oil pan eventually get thrown around from the crank spinning the oil up the engine with those needles is why they got throughout the engine like that and got in between the cam and lifter. Insane. I would recommend that when and if you use that block again that you take it to someone that has an industrial parts washer cabinet that way it will get all that needles out of there. Are you going to stay N/A?

[joshnmn]

This is my son’s car. Of course he is always asking me to put a turbo kit on it, but I don’t see that happening anytime soon.

I looked up the lifter on Summit (Comp lifter) and the first review I saw was an almost exact same failure mode

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by joshnmn

This is my son’s car. Of course he is always asking me to put a turbo kit on it, but I don’t see that happening anytime soon.

I looked up the lifter on Summit (Comp lifter) and the first review I saw was an almost exact same failure mode

If that's the case then there is no reason to get crazy with the build. If it was me I would maybe think about a ls3 stock long block from Jeg's or Summit.

[Moto-Mojo]

Father of the Year! I don't have the skills, but even if I did, I don't have the gumption for that project now. The kid's got a good dad.

My big 'Camaro Project' of the week is pulling the GM CAI, putting the stock tune back in and getting it smogged here in Calunicornia. Best of luck!

[joshnmn]

Thanks! Haha

Joe- sorry to do this on Father’s Day, but I’m gonna have to pull a man card on that. We never go small. Shame on you

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by joshnmn

Thanks! Haha

Joe- sorry to do this on Father’s Day, but I’m gonna have to pull a man card on that. We never go small. Shame on you

What's your plan for your son's engine?

[joshnmn]

Well, it’s looking more and more like he wants to sell it. He’s caught wind of the price difference in fuel prices and also has been forced to learn how to drive a manual. I fear a civic is in the future. Ick