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#1 |
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It don’t come easy.
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Best key fob replacement
I know this thread has been done other times but, a lot of those fobs are no longer being offered.
I’m looking to replace a 4 button fob case with one that will accept the circuit board AND the my original key (switchblade). Whether by using my original entire rotating key assembly or the key itself which can be put into the new fob, via the pin. Anyone done this lately and have a link to a fob shell? Don’t care if it has a logo, just want it to accept my parts. Thanks The button I never push is the one that disintegrated, with the rest not too far behind.
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#2 |
![]() Drives: 2011 2LT/RS Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: OC Cal
Posts: 218
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This guy online did a great job.
Took a pic (HD) of the key. Bought 3 complete FOB with New cut keys ALL worked like New. ALL programmed and worth the small price tag. JMO ![]() Midatlanticlocksmith Last edited by DRC69; 07-19-2025 at 12:48 PM. |
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#3 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: SUMMIT WHITE 2SS/RS CAMARO Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: 2018: Lakewood Ranch, Fl.
Posts: 8,181
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The Battery & Bulbs store had my FOB in stock. See if there's one near you. They had
me all set with 2 new FOB's for my SS in an hour. Franchises all over per their web site
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#4 |
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It don’t come easy.
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Checked that option, as well. $120 vs. I get the case and put my guts in it. Maybe $20. Do you know if what you got from (Batteries Plus) was an OEM thing or a better aftermarket? Don’t want that same deteriorating foam that was in the stock ones.
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#5 |
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Tri-County Camaro SWFL
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https://a.co/d/eVx3f3g
I personally used this one, swapped the guts out and reused the Chevy emblem. This is my DD use fob below. Original 2nd key i never use. https://a.co/d/5gUIXwl
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#6 | |
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It don’t come easy.
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Quote:
Were you able to swap out both the board and the key on those? Thanks
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#7 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,415
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Quote:
For me, the circuit boards fit except for one spot of the circuit board had to be scraped by a razor blade to remove about 1/32nd on an inch so it would snap shut. The circuit boards aren't all exactly the same size so you might not have this issue. The key part is just held on by a very small roll pin, I forgot the exact size. All you have to do is punch it out and you can swap it over easily. You can see the pin I'm talking about in the pic. It's in the 2 o'clock position above the spring. All in all, took me longer to get the old fobs apart then to switch everything over. |
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#8 | |
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It don’t come easy.
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Quote:
Took the bad OEM one apart earlier today. PIA but, doable. Thanks for the help.
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#9 |
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Tri-County Camaro SWFL
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I was able to swap the board and everything keeping the switchblade and all. No modifications at all. I did change the battery just because.
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#10 | |
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It don’t come easy.
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Quote:
Thanks
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#11 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 375
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It’s honestly easier to just get a whole new keyblade fob made. You have to be very peculiar with searching for key fobs, since a lot of these are easily made aftermarket, and lots of them suck as well.
It took me a while to find some nice aftermarket ones, with the logo in the back. The logos/badges looked fake immediately as you checked them out up close. I ended up buying separate donor keys, and then removed the badge and tossed the rest (was sometimes a trashed key shell/fob). It’s like $25-35 here around where I live, in order to match a key blade cut. And to program these key fobs… SUPER easy. If you don’t already know, just keep a working key or keyblade fob, use it to turn the ignition all the way to ‘ON’; and then immediately remove it and use the newly cut key to turn it to the same ignition position. Assuming there aren’t NINE whole keys registered in the ECM or whatever, you should have a fresh new key enrolled, and it should give you a message saying so. If possible, either upgrade to the flat-edged “BMW” styled key fob, or the one that has rounded edges. Those TWO other style of aftermarket key fob upgrades, are much more durable, with no soft rubber keys to wear and tear. Only downside is no logo, and people will immediately know they’re replica keys (who cares..?). If you want to keep the original key fob style, get the ones that have a set screw. This will prevent the halves from coming apart, which the super cheap OEM replica key fobs may sometimes do. And best thing aside from that, is to have a key fob case, like a silicone one. Might be ugly, but that’ll keep the buttons from getting jacked up…. |
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#12 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,415
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Quote:
It's so easy to switch the guts from one fob to another. I bought 2 genuine GM fobs on ebay for $10 for the set and had everything switched over in less time then it would take me to drive to the closest dealer that can make a new key. My dealer wanted $100 per key, $50 for the fob and $50 to cut it. $200 vs $10 and 30 minutes of my time makes just changing it out yourself a no brainer. |
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#13 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 3,065
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I actually had an Amazon unit fail, and I put the original stock guts in it and it's still working like a charm.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. |
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#14 |
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It don’t come easy.
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And we’re go. Everything fit right in. Original key pinned. Case held together with 3 small screws. Put my own spin on not having the chev logo.
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