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#15 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
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#16 |
![]() Drives: Chevy SSR Join Date: May 2025
Location: Fountain Inn, SC
Posts: 5
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New production 5th gen Camaro Clutch Pedal Spring has arrived and has replaced the prototype spring in my buddy's test mule!
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#17 |
![]() Drives: Chevy SSR Join Date: May 2025
Location: Fountain Inn, SC
Posts: 5
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#18 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS RS Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Cicero NY
Posts: 53
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Looking forward to it!
Thank you! |
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#19 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS RS Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Cicero NY
Posts: 53
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I just wanted everyone to know I received my new clutch spring from John at Pedal Stomping Springs! (MidBubSC) This spring is awesome and definitely a must have for all on this forum. I took my original spring out while I was waiting for the new one to arrive and I actually loved the clutch feel. Could not believe how much better it was but I was a little worried about the hydraulic system. The spring is lighter and was a breeze to put in. Try saying that with the original! The spring is very well made and looks OEM! The pedal feels awesome! Feels like it should have been all along and I have the peace of mind knowing that I have a spring in there.
John, I cannot thank you enough! I am very happy. The spring is awesome and just wanted to say you did a great job! I will be telling everyone I know with a C5/6 Corvette and every Camaro owner that the spring is a must have! Thanks again my friend Best Rick Last edited by RickyC; 07-26-2025 at 09:43 AM. |
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#20 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
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Quote:
I've heard so many stories of people complaining about shifting rough and having a hard time modulating the clutch. Turns out that the factory clutch pedal spring is super tough, and it even makes you feel as if the bone stock clutch is some beasty, heavy unit. Well, nope; that's not even remotely the case, and people who have removed the stock clutch spring and just driven the car without it, will tell you just how LIGHT the factory clutch/pedal is. I also kept thinking the bite point was a lot higher up, but my failing cylinders affected that back then. Now, I can tell that the engagement/biting point on the clutch pedal, is like around the middle to lower middle pedal travel area. Knowing precisely where the engagement point is on the clutch pedal, as well as having a spring that isn't overly tough, changes the overall driving experience entirely! Good to know that I wasn't the only one to look around, wondering why C6 Corvette owners were swapping in C5 OEM clutch pedal springs, and saying it was overall a better driving experience. I ran a DIY clutch return spring, that was based off of the "design" of the Lingenfelter one (sold for $80-90+), and I ran through a number of springs that I couldn't tell if they were working or not. Not sure if I will continue to run a return spring after installing this, however. It makes the return force of the pedal increase, and depending on the return spring you add, it gives you a fake harder clutch pedal, just like the stock clutch spring acted. |
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#21 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS RS Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Cicero NY
Posts: 53
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MidBubSC, Just wanted to say again
This spring is awesome! Camaro5 members….. help John out and purchase this spring! He put a lot of time and effort in this, you will not be disappointed! |
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#22 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
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Quote:
I originally removed the factory clutch pedal spring for this very reason, and then ran only a DIY clutch return spring, only so that the clutch pedal could fully return to the top and maintain the clutch master cylinder bore for the hydraulics. Of course, if your clutch pedal/master cylinder never sticks to the floor, then a (additional) clutch pedal return spring may not totally be necessary. I don’t really plan on tracking my car anytime soon, and the only time I fear my pedal sticking in the future (if at all), is if my CMC ever goes out again. I got lucky in the past, and my DIY return spring (with stock clutch pedal spring removed) helped pull up my clutch pedal just enough, when it started to die out and lose all hydraulic pressure. This helped me limp home, but I can’t think of any other reason besides racing applications, where a clutch pedal return spring or this upgraded spring might be totally beneficial. I would even consider running the clutch pedal all by itself with no spring at all, if I wasn’t so paranoid and been so unlucky. Really, an added additional clutch pedal return spring is only a bit tougher on the pedal pressure, when your clutch hydraulic is properly working. Other than that, if you’ve ever bled your clutch pedal or let the hydraulic line pressure out, you’ll notice that whatever spring you have in there, heavy or not, will not actually feel all that heavy. |
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#23 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS RS Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Cicero NY
Posts: 53
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This works for me and just trying to show my gratitude to John for a job well done. |
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#24 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Aug 2025
Location: Canada
Posts: 1
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#25 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
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The picture with the springs is what I DIY’d for return springs. The one in the photo where I’m running my DIY return spring setup, is the super heavy one. Makes you feel like you’re stepping on a 15+ lb setup, and it’s hard to modulate the clutch pedal because it pulls back so hard. Definitely didn’t like it, but got used to it, and it saved me a few times when my clutch master cylinders would constantly fail…. |
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#26 |
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Older Than Dirt
Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 4,685
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MidBubSC gave me a reduced price on one of those reduced tension springs for the clutch pedal if I were to write up what I experienced after install. A few weeks ago, I received the spring, but with an unexpected out of town funeral and some other crap that reared its ugly head at the last moment kept me from concentrating on getting this done. But finally made some time today to get a "round tuit".
First, I'm not as young as I used to be and contorting myself to getting under the clutch pedal was a pita. No fault of the spring, just sayin'. I had a lamp (it's a bit dark under there), a pair of strong needle nose, a flatblade screwdriver, and a pair of channel-locks just in case. I just needed the needle nose and flatblade. I'd probably get an old towel to protect the floorboard/carpet/mat/whatever, from getting grease on it should the spring fall out and hit the floor. I didn't have to, but it's more of an afterthought. Getting the original spring out was easy. Flatblade just slid inside the outside prongs and a little twist popped them right out. Factory spring is doused in graphite grease it appears, so it wouldn't make noise I suppose. Crap gets everywhere fast, so I advise some shop rags and some nitrile/butyl work gloves. Wipe off the clutch pedal areas where it has some grease. I left it in the saddle because of potential wear point, but I don't think it would matter either way. I did not grease the new spring. After the old spring was out, I took it for a ride with NO spring. DEFINITELY don't want to go back to stock. It seemed with the stock spring, you're just stepping on a spring loaded pedal and you have to guess where the engagement points are because you can't really feel them. Without the spring, you get the full effect. I kinda like it. A bit tougher to operate, but I kinda like it. To easily put the new spring in, place the outboard prong nearest the side kick panel in first. Then place the center piece in the pedal saddle. It sorta snaps in. Pretty easy. Then, I hand pressed the clutch pedal to the floor and that allowed the inboard prong closest to the brake pedal to come close to the mounting hole. While holding the clutch pedal down, I used the needle nose pliers to guid the prong into the plastic grommet hole. Boom. Done. Took just a couple of minutes. Took the car for another ride and it's a bit more assist than with no spring, but not much, and you can still feel the clutch engagement a whole lot better over the stock spring. IMO, it's definitely worth the trouble. Just a few minutes and it's a little mod worth doing.
__________________
2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54
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#27 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS RS Join Date: Apr 2023
Location: Cicero NY
Posts: 53
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It’s so much better! So happy I have one! Thanks again John!
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#28 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 371
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Quote:
The new clutch spring I got from Ricky, is indeed MUCH lighter, so it acts the SAME, but just with way less tension. It has an extra loop and is light, so after installing, it kinda “mushes” itself and pokes the ends of the spring, out through the clutch spring bushings/mounts. Not an issue there at all, since nothing should snag on the pointy ends. And like I said, I figured that having a clutch return spring would only really help with MAYBE limping the car, if something ends up happening with the clutch hydraulic system. I could probably just toss in a super light pedal return spring and take out the OEM style spring, and call it a day. The only thing that really made me keep Ricky’s prototype spring on, is that it doesn’t need to have a little “rig” in order to work; you just simply act like it’s the factory clutch pedal spring. |
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| Tags |
| clutch, hydraulic, pedal, spring, transmission |
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