Brake pad/clutch reservoir question

[LSAmac]

*cross posted* I’m aware this has been covered, a lot of the google searches that brought me here are a lot older, bare with me 2 part question

I’m Trying to get some feedback on brake pads people have been running? From what I can see the brembo, hawk, raybesto and powerstop are the main options essentially. I’d prefer Bite/STOPPING POWER over dust all day, the brembo absolutely dust like a mother but they’ve served me well with my driving style. I don’t track the car but I enjoy racing so they run hot a lot, and they’ve saved me many times and stop GREAT ! Is there an option relatively close to the brembo that dust less? Or is brembo the best out the options for bite force and you just gotta deal with the dust? Also how does the noise play into all this I’ve read about? Is it a wheel bearing type of grind or something, I honestly never heard any real noise from the brembo until recently they squeak, but more than likely just time for a replacement. And how can I know when the rotor is ready for replacement, there’s no grooves or pulsating but there factory rotors, at 80k miles I’d imagine there done soon? Will a measuring tool help there?


after choosing out the options, I plan to also bleed the brakes, (I’m aware of the criss cross pattern and inside valve first) I’ve read and seen some info that a scanner is needed for this for the abs, Is that true or what’s the situation with that?
I don’t mind investing in one but is it truly necessary? I’ve also attached files, regarding the shared reservoir with the clutch fluid, this doesn’t look like the stock setup, any help here why there’s one hose and this green valve ,how can I trace these hoses too see what’s going on here? Would now be a good time to install a separate reservoir for the clutch and bleed these all together ?

I appreciate any response I get sorry for the long ass post, thanks!

[FASTFATBOY]

Carbotech AX6 is one of the best street pads on the planet.

No sequence for bleeding brakes, I would put some Motul 600 or 660 in. When I am swapping fluid I bleed the LF first to empty the reservoir (almost) then pour in the Motul and continue to bleed the LF then the rest. No scanner is needed for the brakes.

If the original rotors have 80K on them I'd replace them with parts store rotors.

This is how you "bed in" brake pads, do not skip this step.

https://youtu.be/pdPX6rzuINc?si=ODq07Uho8ku1YOH3

Get one of these and look up how to use it.

https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Perso...69&sr=8-9&th=1

[LSAmac]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

Carbotech AX6 is one of the best street pads on the planet.

No sequence for bleeding brakes, I would put some Motul 600 or 660 in. When I am swapping fluid I bleed the LF first to empty the reservoir (almost) then pour in the Motul and continue to bleed the LF then the rest. No scanner is needed for the brakes.

If the original rotors have 80K on them I'd replace them with parts store rotors.

This is how you "bed in" brake pads, do not skip this step.

https://youtu.be/pdPX6rzuINc?si=ODq07Uho8ku1YOH3

Get one of these and look up how to use it.

https://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Perso...69&sr=8-9&th=1

Appreciate it , as far as the fluid I believe it’s still dot 3 , would I run into issues mixing these ? Or will the dot 3 slowly be pushed out and filtered with the new stuff? I’ve never switched fluid , so I don’t want to run into any problem on this system . Also the right rear left front etc pattern isn’t necessary? I’ve heard you have to for the big brembo calipers, or at least that’s what it calls for ?

Lastly with the system sharing the reservoir with the clutch , would now be a good time to do a stand alone before bleeding , I’m not sure if this is the stock setup , looks like they may be sharing still but there’s some extra attachments here. And how can I go about flushing the clutch ? I’ve heard press the pedal as you do each corner ? Thanks again!

[Joe.G]

I replied in your other thread, I believe I answer most of your questions, Dot 3 and 4 can be mixed with out issue, I would switch to 4, I am not a fan of cheap part store rotors for many reasons but to each their own. If you do I would clean up the hub area and coat them with paint or clear to try and keep them from rusting. It really comes down to what you plan on doing, with the car.

[EasternPine]

I personally use EBC's Bluestuff NDX, kinda dusty but less than factory Brembo(which is actually contract order Ferodo street pads, not DS2500s). The NDXs have been very good and consistent for hard street use and can handle a track day if it's a fresh set.

I'd stay far far away from Powerstop, but again that is from anecdotal experience.

[LSAmac]

Originally Posted by EasternPine

I personally use EBC's Bluestuff NDX, kinda dusty but less than factory Brembo(which is actually contract order Ferodo street pads, not DS2500s). The NDXs have been very good and consistent for hard street use and can handle a track day if it's a fresh set.

I'd stay far far away from Powerstop, but again that is from anecdotal experience.

appreciate it! I was trying to get a general idea of the options, ill look into those and some others ive read on. I dont plan to cheap out on them just looking for some less dusty options and that can handle heat

[Ktucky1LE]

I'm not sure where your other thread is so this may have already been answered. I believe that green line with valve is a "speed bleed" for your clutch. I have one also, but have not used yet (will have to learn when time comes). I have heard it is a nice convenience.

For brakes, I tried to research exact question you are asking on pads... can I match Brembo performance with less dust. I finally decided to just go OEM Brembo pads. I also ordered new OEM rotors (this is all for front only... not touching rears yet). I have not got installed yet... next week or so. I will definitely be doing a bedding in procedure too.

[LSAmac]

Originally Posted by Ktucky1LE

I'm not sure where your other thread is so this may have already been answered. I believe that green line with valve is a "speed bleed" for your clutch. I have one also, but have not used yet (will have to learn when time comes). I have heard it is a nice convenience.

For brakes, I tried to research exact question you are asking on pads... can I match Brembo performance with less dust. I finally decided to just go OEM Brembo pads. I also ordered new OEM rotors (this is all for front only... not touching rears yet). I have not got installed yet... next week or so. I will definitely be doing a bedding in procedure too.

yea i cross posted in the brake/suspension, but it doesnt get as many eyes so i came here aswell. I believe most of it was answered if you wanted to check it out. I was tracing the lines and realized thats what that was, its actually fairly simple from an install vid i seen, just hook up a tube to the valve and pump the clutch and let it bleed inside essentially. i still need a remote res for the clutch which is why i came to the forum and also wanted some opinions on best overall street pads. it definitely makes bleeding the clutch simpler, i was getting ready to swap them all aswell and we got hit with another snow storm lol if you dont mind where did you pick your pads/rotors up from? i usually do rockauto and have never had problems, but if i decide to do rotors im gonna need to do some shopping around. thanks

[Ktucky1LE]

I ordered my front rotors from Rockauto... $286.80 for the set. OEM, came in GM box.

I ordered the OEM Brembo front pads from Bob Hook Chevrolet, via the GM Parts online portal... $282.08 (they were running a 15% discount when I ordered... lucked out here).

Thanks for the feedback on the clutch bleed process! Sounds like something I could maybe do, when feeling brave. I would also like to do the separate reservoir. Sorry about the weather, that bites! Really sick of the cold and snow. Hope it changes soon for you!

[Shafer117]

I've used the powerstop z26 rotors and pads for about a year now and I love them, very low cost for what you get IMO. The rotors look very mean, the pads brake hard when you need them to but they're comfortable, and they don't make really any noise past the break in. I just swapped the pads to the powerstop track day pads for some autocross and they are less comfortable and a lot more noisy, but damn do they stop. All in all, I recommend the powerstops.


For the bleeding I don't think there's any electronics you have to mess with it should be fairly simple. The clutch/brake fluid reservoir is combined from the factory, separating them I think is a fairly common thing people do. I haven't personally because I like to replace the fluid often anyway but I bet the fluid would last longer if they were separate

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by Shafer117

I've used the powerstop z26 rotors and pads for about a year now and I love them, very low cost for what you get IMO. The rotors look very mean, the pads brake hard when you need them to but they're comfortable, and they don't make really any noise past the break in. I just swapped the pads to the powerstop track day pads for some autocross and they are less comfortable and a lot more noisy, but damn do they stop. All in all, I recommend the powerstops.


For the bleeding I don't think there's any electronics you have to mess with it should be fairly simple. The clutch/brake fluid reservoir is combined from the factory, separating them I think is a fairly common thing people do. I haven't personally because I like to replace the fluid often anyway but I bet the fluid would last longer if they were separate

If you ever have to panic stop the car from say 80 MPH you'll understand why they are JUNK. If you don't have a heart attack from the car not slowing down you'll take them off the car and buy good wheel cleaner because that's what happened to me.

Ceramic pads do not like heat, they will easily melt onto the rotor face and then you'll have a paint shaker at Lowes every time you step on the brakes.

Pretty much any rotor is fine, it's the pads or the wrong pads that ruin the rotors.

I ran parts store rotors on my C5 Z06 for track work and never had one shake. I threw them away when the heat cracking got bad enough because I never exceeded the temp ceiling of the track pads I had on the car.

[Shafer117]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

If you ever have to panic stop the car from say 80 MPH you'll understand why they are JUNK. If you don't have a heart attack from the car not slowing down you'll take them off the car and buy good wheel cleaner because that's what happened to me.

Ceramic pads do not like heat, they will easily melt onto the rotor face and then you'll have a paint shaker at Lowes every time you step on the brakes.

Pretty much any rotor is fine, it's the pads or the wrong pads that ruin the rotors.

I ran parts store rotors on my C5 Z06 for track work and never had one shake. I threw them away when the heat cracking got bad enough because I never exceeded the temp ceiling of the track pads I had on the car.

They held up fine for my enthusiastic street driving almost as good as the OEM brembo pads, which are also ceramic, with less brake dust. The track day pads are a carbon fiber/metallic compound; street pads for street and track pads for track is how I go about it. Sorry to hear your experience with them wasn't as good but I do recommend them for a street focused camaro

[FASTFATBOY]

OEM Brembo pads are not ceramic, they are made by Ferodo for Brembo.

The Powerstop Z26 ceramic pads are crap.

[Tenring]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

The Powerstop Z26 ceramic pads are crap.

Agreed