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#1 |
![]() Drives: BMW E46 sedan Join Date: Apr 2026
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4
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TR6060 Clutch slave cylinder to pressure plate measurement
I need some guidance regarding measurements between the slave cylinder-TOB and clutch pressure plate.
I took measurements using a tool I made using some aluminum angle and came up with results that tell me the slave cylinder will be pushing on the pressure plate fingers by ~0.030" in the fully compressed position when bolted together. Holding the slave in the compressed position I get a depth from the bellhousing mating surface of 3.360" - my tool thickness of 0.125" to get 3.235" My measurements varied within 0.010" here trying to hold the bearing compressed with one hand and measure with the other. I 3D printed 4" standoffs to thread into the transmission bolt holes on the engine block. Tool height 4.125" from the mating surface of the block. I get a measurement of 0.860" from the tool to the TOB surface of the pressure plate fingers. 4.125" - 0.8640" is 3.261 Difference between the space to the compressed TOB to the pressure plate is -0.026" From what I understand you need ~ 1/8" before bottoming out to allow for clutch wear as the fingers expand outward. There could be slight differences in my measurements but I might be cutting it too close here. I called Exedy this morning and was told concentric slave cylinders need to be touching the pressure plate, but that was about it. I am using all stock replacement parts which should all play nice, but doesn't mean that always happens. Does anyone know if this is normal and I am over thinking things, or is something not right here? I do not know what to check next if necessary. Exedy GMK1036 clutch kit, this kit comes with the standard FTE slave cylinder Luk LFW191 flywheel 6.2l engine TR6060 transmission Also, I was told by Exedy to never compress the slave cylinder by hand before installing as I could damage the internal seals. So I know that moving forward. |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 3,061
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if your bearing is resting on the pressure plate fully compressed, your clutch will always be engaged to soe degree. You need that 1/8th gap. Fully extended it will ride on the pressure plate and that is fine.
I have never heard of anyone running into a situation where there is no gap to the pressure plate when the slave is fully compressed, so I would double check how you are measuring. They do make spacers that go between the bellhousing and the block, but I would be absolutely sure before using one of those. See if there are any videos on YouTube that might help you.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. |
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: WI.
Posts: 573
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If it were me, i would verify the old parts dimensions vs the new in the installed state to find out where the variation is coming from. These calculations are tricky but important.
The difference is in either parts, installation process, measurement process or calculation of measurements. Knowing which one it is will ensure the correct solution. When measuring, i use three measurements of each to ensure repeatability within an acceptable variation. |
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#4 |
![]() Drives: BMW E46 sedan Join Date: Apr 2026
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4
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I appreciate the feedback from both of you.
I used a piece of aluminum angle I drilled holes in that gets bolted/clamped to the bellhousing and a digital caliper used to measure the depth. The angle was chosen to be rigid across the span of the bellhousing. The only issue with this is I am fighting the spring on the slave with one hand and using the caliper with the other. I was able to get within 0.010 over 7-8 measurements. On the engine side, I printed two 4" tall standoffs that thread into the transmission bolt holes and bolt the same aluminum angle to the top of the standoffs to measure the depth to the pressure plate. This is a rigid set up and I get the same result each time. I was hoping there would be a general known spec for these measurements to compare mine to, but I haven't found any. It seems to be pretty much related to aftermarket clutches. I did find a video on youtube this morning showing someone disassemble a slave cylinder to remove the spring. The bearing pops right off and there is a metal press fit collar that holds the spring in. I think I might try this method As far as the old parts go, unfortunately I don't have any to work with. The slave was the only part, which was tossed after visually appearing the same as the replacement. The engine and transmission I have are from separate vehicles and the engine did not come with anything on the rear of it. I am LS swapping a E46 BMW. While that may sound like a hodgepodge, everything I have belongs to a 5th gen Camaro and all of the parts I am using are stock replacements. I was going for OEM level of fitment and reliability, no aftermarket weirdness to overcome and contend with. |
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#5 |
![]() Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: WI.
Posts: 573
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My next step would be verify flatness of the angle iron piece, make sure there is nothing preventing the slave from fully seating and making sure slave is correct one.
This dim. Is critical for the clutch to work. |
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#6 |
![]() Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Mobile Al
Posts: 564
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Contact Tick, they have the method to do it with a fixed bellhousing.
They sent it to me, I have it somewhere.
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2015 1SS 1LE, Magnuson 2300 Heartbeat and headers. 550rwhp STD, 535 SAE.
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#7 |
![]() Drives: BMW E46 sedan Join Date: Apr 2026
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4
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Well, I think (hope) I have this solved!
I checked the flatness of the aluminum with my machined straight edge and it shows no light under it. I disassembled my cylinder to remove the spring and got a reading of 3.248". A little better but still leaving me with a negative clearance. Started writing my reply here and decided to give it one more look over before posting. I took the cylinder back out and squeezed it between my palms with some decent pressure and the cylinder gave way and collapsed a little more. Kind of took me by surprise how it gave way but must the seal inside must have been stuck. Now I have a reading of 3.474" giving me a clearance of 0.213" Little more than the 1/8", probably could shim that to tighten it up slightly, but I'll send it as is. Going to try to bench bleed the cylinder now to make sure I didn't mess up the seal but hopefully good to go. I appreciate the insight and replies! |
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#8 |
![]() Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: WI.
Posts: 573
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Glad to hear you got it. Nice job staying with it to figure it out. Let us know how it works when you get it together.
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#9 |
![]() Drives: BMW E46 sedan Join Date: Apr 2026
Location: Midwest
Posts: 4
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Following up after the weekend.
I couldn't figure out for the life of me how to bench bleed the cylinder, so I bolted the engine and transmission together and made a makeshift clutch set up by bolting the pedal and master cylinder to my workbench. I was able to bleed the clutch and and verify everything was working properly. Engine and transmission are now installed in the car. Still have a long road of building an exhaust and making everything else fit, but happy to pass the big milestone of getting that done! |
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