RX/CHILLER = AWESOME!!

[RoketRdr]

Originally Posted by rpepka

I watched them turn the A/C on inside the cabin, so the question is can the chiller be run independently from the cabin a/c?

I am guessing the you control the cabin by adjusting the temperature inside the cabin and the chiller remains on for the inter cooler??

Yes the chiller can run while you shut off the AC blowing in the cabin. This is what the competition mode is. The AC must be turned on for the chiller to work but the switch that's provided shuts off the Freon from flowing through the evaporator core in the cabin.

[1st Gen Forever]

Originally Posted by AZ-ZL1

Any installers in Phoenix metro ?

If anyone needs this set up, us desert rats do!

+1

I too would like to know if you have installers in Phoenix.

So by supercooling the HX coolant, you're really lowering IAT2s more than IATs right?

Thanks!

[RoketRdr]

Originally Posted by 2012ZL1

The heater core is stacked with the a/c evap.
When you are in a/c mode with temp turned to heat its no different than regular a/c running in heat mode.
"Heat" doesn't come out in this case because you don't turn on the fan so nothing comes out. Intercooler temps are still a lot cooler than engine coolant, and all you are doing is cooling the heater core with the evap.
As far as I know it works without a hitch, they ony drawback if any, is you no longer have a heater.

The heater core and a/c evap are not stacked directly on top of each other. The evap is vertical and the heater core is at an angle slightly higher than the evap. Without air flow there is no convection between the radiators so this can't work. The existing HX would be doing far more cooling that running through the heater core. No air flow...no cooling/heat transfer. The chilled air from the evaporator won't be cooling the heater core and you will just heat up the the evap/heater core air box. An evaporator will never be able to remove heat to the level a chiller can and especially with not having direct contact with the fluid. Even if you did try this set-up and were able to get the AC to run with the fan on max and the heater core valve open...you will still be dumping condensation from the dryer onto the road so this couldn't be used at the track. So...no heater, cant use it at the race track, and wont cool to the level that a chiller can. And a modded car will see much higher temp levels with increased boost so the system will dump even more condensation over stock especially with some seeing IAT2's at 200*F +.

Since this has worked without a hitch can you please provide us with the data logs of IAT's pre and post blower as well as pics of the install?

[rpepka]

Do you think that we will run into warranty problems with this install?

[closs2sx]

Maybe on ac components as it taxes the system more but I couldnt see them voiding anything else

[joes407]

I've had my chiller on for about three weeks now and I love it. my only complaint is the little gauge it's not backlit but I'm waiting for an a pillar gauge cluster to come out and that Gage will be replaced .Temperatures here been in the high 90s and 80s at night at night. Im running in the mid 60s on my internal ambient temperatures at nite and during the day I'm running in the mid 70s that's about a 20 ° all around difference but I'm thrilled. This morning i actually broke the 60° mark on my iats and saw 58° for my ambients cant wait to see how chilly i am when the outside air is 58°

[sammyv]

Has the chiller been tested on a roadcourse?

[joes407]

just the public road course. ive been trying to find a spot to go where i can put it to the test while boosting alot. since my street tests weve had some hotter days and i saw the ambient temp as high as 125 with the chiller off just sitting at a traffic light. timing is getting pulled at that temp for sure.

[BoostedX2]

Originally Posted by joes407

just the public road course. ive been trying to find a spot to go where i can put it to the test while boosting alot. since my street tests weve had some hotter days and i saw the ambient temp as high as 125 with the chiller off just sitting at a traffic light. timing is getting pulled at that temp for sure.

Hey Joe, I am real interested in this. Any info you can provide would be awesome!!

T

[2012ZL1]

Originally Posted by RoketRdr

The heater core and a/c evap are not stacked directly on top of each other. The evap is vertical and the heater core is at an angle slightly higher than the evap. Without air flow there is no convection between the radiators so this can't work. The existing HX would be doing far more cooling that running through the heater core. No air flow...no cooling/heat transfer. The chilled air from the evaporator won't be cooling the heater core and you will just heat up the the evap/heater core air box. An evaporator will never be able to remove heat to the level a chiller can and especially with not having direct contact with the fluid. Even if you did try this set-up and were able to get the AC to run with the fan on max and the heater core valve open...you will still be dumping condensation from the dryer onto the road so this couldn't be used at the track. So...no heater, cant use it at the race track, and wont cool to the level that a chiller can. And a modded car will see much higher temp levels with increased boost so the system will dump even more condensation over stock especially with some seeing IAT2's at 200*F +.

Since this has worked without a hitch can you please provide us with the data logs of IAT's pre and post blower as well as pics of the install?

No need for the smartassery, You could have left the explanation as it stood. I understand what you are saying and thats why I asked the question to start with if you scroll up a few posts.

The vehicles I have seen (on line) using this system are not ZL1's, but they are intercooled Camaro's with superchargers. The thread discussing the install is on the camaro5 forum, so I can find it (so can you) but why so defensive? You can't possibly assume this will be the only kit of this type offered. Its not rocket science.

..I was asking.. because that (the heater core method) would be a more reasonablly priced way to help the intercooling without spending a g-note.
Fact is you really never need 39 degrees. More beneficial would be a constant 60 degrees.

The heater core method is in fact a water>air>water intercooling and as such yes it does not chill to 39 degrees, but maybe it chills to 60 degrees and thats all a person needs if the rest of the system is engineered properly.

It seems to me that this system is still flawed if it can't continue to maintain the low temps under acceleration. It also seems to me that sub 60 degree temps less valuable because they only exist when no boost is being made. I agree that the low temps under no boost are still beneficial, but I want the coolest temps under acceleration, not cruise.

Any way ..didn't mean to start a scrap or get investors noses out of joint. Just a question because I want to find out. I guess I will find out on my own. I can be pretty resourceful myself.

[snapp32e]

Originally Posted by joes407

I've had my chiller on for about three weeks now and I love it. my only complaint is the little gauge it's not backlit but I'm waiting for an a pillar gauge cluster to come out and that Gage will be replaced .Temperatures here been in the high 90s and 80s at night at night. Im running in the mid 60s on my internal ambient temperatures at nite and during the day I'm running in the mid 70s that's about a 20 ° all around difference but I'm thrilled. This morning i actually broke the 60° mark on my iats and saw 58° for my ambients cant wait to see how chilly i am when the outside air is 58°

So can you "feel" a difference in the performance of the car? Does it eliminate the sluggish feel at warm ambient temperatures?

[SC2150]

If you have a competent shop you guys use in the phoenix area let me know and we will look into adding them as an installer/dealer for sure.

The temp variations will be with any type of cooling as the harder the car is run, the more boost it makes, the more heat generated. The main thing is keeping IAT's below 110 at all times to avoid pulling timing. At 115 you may see 1-2 degrees timing pulled...only a few HP/TQ, but by 175-180 it can be 8-10* and that can be 40-50-70 hp which is alot.

I cant see how using the heater core could work in any practical way unless your saying to delete heat from the HVAC system? and since there is no way to expand freon from liquid to a gas in the heater core you would be totally dependant on radiated cooling from the evaporator and very inefficient.

The other thing is in competion mode the freon flow is shut off to the evaporator so no moisture is extracted from the cabin air to drip onto the track....not sure how that would be accomplished w/the heater core.

As far as race course, we have gone as long as 50 seconds of WOT and temps went from in the 40's to around 100 but as soon as the throttle is lifted and the compressor re-engages temps dropped right back down in 10-20 seconds so road race should not be an issue, but we will be having a hard core road racer testing one in the near future.

Also, the guys in dry climates, the low humidity allows these to work even more effectively...the ones we have in the middle east are cooling down 50 plus degrees below outside ambient air temps.

And lastly, we saw 26* temps when it was 60 outside this winter.....amazingly cold.

We prefer to install here where we do this all the time for any close enough, but any good shop can do this that has certified AC tech.

[Bowtie724]

Maybe this was discussed before but why is the timing pulled?

[2012ZL1]

Originally Posted by SC2150

If you have a competent shop you guys use in the phoenix area let me know and we will look into adding them as an installer/dealer for sure.

The temp variations will be with any type of cooling as the harder the car is run, the more boost it makes, the more heat generated. The main thing is keeping IAT's below 110 at all times to avoid pulling timing. At 115 you may see 1-2 degrees timing pulled...only a few HP/TQ, but by 175-180 it can be 8-10* and that can be 40-50-70 hp which is alot.

I cant see how using the heater core could work in any practical way unless your saying to delete heat from the HVAC system? and since there is no way to expand freon from liquid to a gas in the heater core you would be totally dependant on radiated cooling from the evaporator and very inefficient.

The other thing is in competion mode the freon flow is shut off to the evaporator so no moisture is extracted from the cabin air to drip onto the track....not sure how that would be accomplished w/the heater core.

As far as race course, we have gone as long as 50 seconds of WOT and temps went from in the 40's to around 100 but as soon as the throttle is lifted and the compressor re-engages temps dropped right back down in 10-20 seconds so road race should not be an issue, but we will be having a hard core road racer testing one in the near future.

Also, the guys in dry climates, the low humidity allows these to work even more effectively...the ones we have in the middle east are cooling down 50 plus degrees below outside ambient air temps.

And lastly, we saw 26* temps when it was 60 outside this winter.....amazingly cold.

We prefer to install here where we do this all the time for any close enough, but any good shop can do this that has certified AC tech.

Yes, thats what they do. delete the heat from the hvac system, because its not needed anyhow.
Yes it is only radiated cooling.
What you said makes sense on the condensation (comp mode). Thank you.
So is there no condensation build up at the exchanger in your set up?
Why does the compressor have to cut out during full throttle?
Thanks