Technostalgia taillights flashing randomly when car is off and locked. What the hell.

[bee sting]

*UPDATE*

My battery was draining also after about a week of setting . 2 weeks it would be Dead ! I have a battery tender but it's a pain to remove everything including the sub box .
So I tried the remote amp wire trick and No more Dead or Drain Battery ! 2 weeks and the car turned over as if it was just started the day before .
Sad we have to do this and you'd think the company would come up with a fix for this on going issue .
Guess in the spring I'll try a more permanent solution and hope to at least get my brake lights back without a switch or turning on the key or parking lights.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by bee sting

*UPDATE*

My battery was draining also after about a week of setting . 2 weeks it would be Dead ! I have a battery tender but it's a pain to remove everything including the sub box .
So I tried the remote amp wire trick and No more Dead or Drain Battery ! 2 weeks and the car turned over as if it was just started the day before .
Sad we have to do this and you'd think the company would come up with a fix for this on going issue .
Guess in the spring I'll try a more permanent solution and hope to at least get my brake lights back without a switch or turning on the key or parking lights.

Glad to hear it. Question, couldn't you connect the battery tender under the hood?

[RenegadeXR]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Glad to hear it. Question, couldn't you connect the battery tender under the hood?

You're supposed to connect it directly to the negative and positive posts of the battery, I think. And the battery itself is in the trunk under the spare tire (or a giant chunk of Styrofoam if you're an SS owner.)

I ripped off one user's idea from another thread and picked up a pair of Trail Tech 040-LS-B push buttons from Amazon. They're small, waterproof, and should blend in easily with the trunk interior. One will control show mode, one will control power to the pink wire that goes to the Technostalgia harness. Technostalgia claims this pink wire that you connect to the positive battery terminal is only used to provide power for show mode, but it actually powers a controller that drives the LED arrays in general, meaning if you disconnected it, the lights don't function but there also won't be any battery drain.

On a side note: The lights that don't support show mode or sequential turning should't have this issue. I don't believe there's any separate harness to install for those, and they only draw power directly from the tail lamp bulb connectors. But I think the vast majority of people want the sequential turn signal. :P

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by RenegadeXR

You're supposed to connect it directly to the negative and positive posts of the battery, I think. And the battery itself is in the trunk under the spare tire (or a giant chunk of Styrofoam if you're an SS owner.)

I ripped off one user's idea from another thread and picked up a pair of Trail Tech 040-LS-B push buttons from Amazon. They're small, waterproof, and should blend in easily with the trunk interior. One will control show mode, one will control power to the pink wire that goes to the Technostalgia harness. Technostalgia claims this pink wire that you connect to the positive battery terminal is only used to provide power for show mode, but it actually powers a controller that drives the LED arrays in general, meaning if you disconnected it, the lights don't function but there also won't be any battery drain.

On a side note: The lights that don't support show mode or sequential turning should't have this issue. I don't believe there's any separate harness to install for those, and they only draw power directly from the tail lamp bulb connectors. But I think the vast majority of people want the sequential turn signal. :P

fyi... a friend of mine has his battery tender attached under the hood to the remote postive & negative terminals.

[dmiotti]

For those wanting to make sure their emergency lights work when connecting these lights to a switched (ignition) source, I used a switch that is normally on with the ignition but can flip it to direct battery if I ever needed the emergency lights without having to leave my keys in the ignition. Sorry if someone already suggested this (didn't want to read through dozens of pages).

Here's a bit more detail on how I did this;

I used a SPDT switch. I connected the pink wire from the lights (power) to the center poll on the switch. I ran a wire from the battery (in the trunk) to an outside poll on the switch. I did use a fuse in the line for that. There are no ignition power sources in the trunk. At least I couldn't find one. I tapped a wire from the center console power outlet (cig lighter), ran it under the driver side dash (I like the Add-a-Fuse option above better), alongside the left bottom door sill to the back seat (it pulls down) and to the other outer poll on the switch. I mounted the switch on the plastic liner at the back of the inside trunk. Up is BAT down is IGN.

[Normagene]

Originally Posted by camguynj

fyi... a friend of mine has his battery tender attached under the hood to the remote postive & negative terminals.

That's how mine is connected. Battery must of been a little low, took like three days before I got the green light. Peek in the garage every now and then, still green!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Deke736

The 20 amp fuse is for the console outlet and it what was there from the factory. I used a 5 amp for the wire running to the trunk.

If you're not familiar with an "add-a-circuit" it has 2 fuses in it- one fuse is for the original circuit and the other is for your new circuit. I'm not assuming you aren't familiar with these, but I thought it might be helpful to explain how they work. Here is a pic:

Where did you get the 20amp add a fuse from? The only switched circuit I have in my rear fuse box to use is a 20amp and I'm having a hard time finding a 20amp add a circuit. Thanks!

[Deke736]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Where did you get the 20amp add a fuse from? The only switched circuit I have in my rear fuse box to use is a 20amp and I'm having a hard time finding a 20amp add a circuit. Thanks!

Any parts store should have them. They aren't typically sold with the fuses in them, so you will just use the 20 amp fuse you pull out and add a 5 amp for the lights.


If you can't find them locally, you can order them online. I've order from here before, and that's a pretty good price.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/par...FcVFMgodRDEAHw

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Deke736

Any parts store should have them. They aren't typically sold with the fuses in them, so you will just use the 20 amp fuse you pull out and add a 5 amp for the lights.


If you can't find them locally, you can order them online. I've order from here before, and that's a pretty good price.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/par...FcVFMgodRDEAHw

Hey thanks for the quick reply. I had seen this site already but it specifically says
"Select and remove a fuse in your vehicles fuse box ( not to exceed 10 amps)"
I need to use 20amp circuit that's why I asked where did you get yours as you said you used a 20amp circuit. Thanks again.

[Deke736]

Well, I guess that goes to show that I don't read directions! Ha! I have had mine in for a year with no problems.

[GVA 45TH 2SS]

I believe the 10 Amp max is for what you add. The pigtail is 16 gauge which they say max is 10amp.
16 can actually handle a bit more that 10 amp but it is not spelled out in NEC very well.
Both fuses are a solid direct connection to the fuse box the only issue should be what goes through the weakest part which is the pigtail.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Deke736

Well, I guess that goes to show that I don't read directions! Ha! I have had mine in for a year with no problems.

Finally found a 20amp add a circuit so I'll be going with this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ADD-A-FUSE-A...item338559cf7a

[GVA 45TH 2SS]

same thing. it still only has 16awg for the pigtail

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by GVA 45TH 2SS

I believe the 10 Amp max is for what you add. The pigtail is 16 gauge which they say max is 10amp.
16 can actually handle a bit more that 10 amp but it is not spelled out in NEC very well.
Both fuses are a solid direct connection to the fuse box the only issue should be what goes through the weakest part which is the pigtail.

fyi... 16AGW is good for up to 22 amps. I only need 5amps thru the pigtail but a 20amp
fuse for the existing circuit

https://www.eol.ucar.edu/rtf/facilit.../Wire_Size.htm