Accessories for 600+ HP

[MonteSS]

Definitely go a size bigger for injectors and fuel pump like was suggested. You don't want to be running lean at those high RPMs because you can't get enough fuel.

I'm at 580whp at the moment with nitto nt555r's, and they do okay for a 20'' wheel - but if you have a little more in your wallet I would definitely think about going down to an 18'' for more sidewall.

My next upgrades are axles, diff, rear end, tires and that good stuff. Then I can go back to power adders, headers, meth a decent size cam and really move.

I try not to run it too hard because I am slightly afraid of breaking something

[Tim 2011 SS]

Originally Posted by Reelgrinder

Your will either get beat racing or get used to that power level, planning ahead is a great idea!

So if you don't want to waste money here are things to look at..

So get 85 LB injectors not 63, everyone will say to get Injector Dynamics 850s they are the best.. mainly because the tables when you tune all ready has info. So its the tuners preference. all tuners cost about 500 so if you find a tuner that can do FAST 85lbs save about 300 to 400.00 One place is 21st century muscle in Addison tx. they cn tune fast no problem and have perfect idle!

The TSP or the BTR is about the same the lingenfelter GT9 would be another good one provided the car is manual and has the lighter valves..

There are cheaper headers out there but the thing about Kooks is you will get a real good quality header coated for the price of uncoated other brands. Marylandspeed seemed to have best price then if jegs has them they match and beat price with no ship and tax.

Do a ZL1 pump the Eforce comes with a 3 bar so you will be good to 650rwhp or tad more.. If you do want like 700rwhp to 1000 later then ya do it once get squash or lingenfelter.

get the race eforce no injectors, no hand held tuner, smaller pulley.. for less than the complete kit!

The customer support at Eldelbrock is the best in the world.. hardly ever a wait will answer any questions and usually will replace parts free if out of warranty.. They just upgraded my kit that's 3 years old for free with the newer tensioner and I have no more belt slippage I'm at 660rwhp with a BTR cam

I've been looking into a lot of this lately. I can't decide what would be the best pulley size to go with for now, also looking at tuners that tune other people's builds. I've talked to 510 racing, anyone have any experience with them? I tried 21st century muscle and they only tune their own builds.

[TeddyP25]

Upgrade fuel pieces first and foremost....dual pump, injectors, ect....build as if you plan on going higher, cuz u will.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by Tim 2011 SS

I've been looking into a lot of this lately. I can't decide what would be the best pulley size to go with for now, also looking at tuners that tune other people's builds. I've talked to 510 racing, anyone have any experience with them? I tried 21st century muscle and they only tune their own builds.

I agree with reelrinder I drove around 3 years NOT 1 problem. The dealer installed the blower and it was towed to 21st. made 501 RWHP the 52 were at 100% duty cycle. This was just with eforce no cold air no headers. So not sure why they said that since the dealer installed and did my work.

[2012InfernoSS]

You can check out Fore Innovations also for fuel pumps and Fic for injectors

Like the rest have said if you are going to pay ( or even if you do it yourself ) removing the fuel tank is a lot of work and you might as well put something in it that's not going to be at or close to its limit right off the bat.

If you remove the tank for the pump/s then I would also look into some rear subframe bushings while the rear is out of the car, Apex makes some that are identical to the ones pfadt made and they are really going to help you put the power down

[Tim 2011 SS]

Originally Posted by 2012InfernoSS

You can check out Fore Innovations also for fuel pumps and Fic for injectors

Like the rest have said if you are going to pay ( or even if you do it yourself ) removing the fuel tank is a lot of work and you might as well put something in it that's not going to be at or close to its limit right off the bat.

If you remove the tank for the pump/s then I would also look into some rear subframe bushings while the rear is out of the car, Apex makes some that are identical to the ones pfadt made and they are really going to help you put the power down

Yea I was recommended the fic 80 injectors. Talked to a couple places I'm being told to go with a magnuson or procharger if I haven't already purchased a super charger. I'm keeping my street tires until I can do some rear end work as well, that wheel hop will only get worse