CLUTCH FAILURE!!! WTF

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by ZL575BumbleBee

For my car it has made a big difference in the feel of the clutch pedal. Actually night and day. My buddy who has only been in the car a couple times was shocked at the difference in the clutch pedal.

Come on? How can it change the clutch feel? It has no barring on the feel of the clutch.
Your friend is dreaming thinking it has changed. What can it change?? You have the same fluid covering the master, if it changed, you must have air in the line!

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by McRat

If there is 1% chance of clutch dust getting into fluid shared by the expensive Brembo calipers, I'd rather see separate fluid.

How can clutch dust get into the fluid line? No way the line has pressure at all times, no way dust can get in! I have worked in this field and know for a fact that clutch dust can not get in.

You are just fooling your self adding a 2nd tank. It's been working great all this time on cars for years, only issue is a loose cap.

I believe in selling something that is useful and does help a owner, to much snake oil out there. 2nd tank helps nothing if the tanks do not leak, the tanks do not leak the cap does.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by McRat

If there is 1% chance of clutch dust getting into fluid shared by the expensive Brembo calipers, I'd rather see separate fluid.

Read this report from a lab.

[McRat]

If the fluid outgasses or boils, when it cools, it sucks in.

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by McRat

If the fluid outgasses or boils, when it cools, it sucks in.

No way! It can not do that... Who said that, what data do you have to prove that?

There is no way you can boil fluid in the clutch system. Pressure to low.
I have 100s of tanks here and could sell them to you guys, but it's not going to help anything. I have worked on both clutch and brake systems.

[90503]

Can I play?...lol....

I could never figure out how "dust" could get in the fluid (clutch or brake)....If that were possible, how in the world could a hydraulic fluid system keep from leaking like a sieve?...

On the other hand, if there is no "dust", what makes the fluid become dark, discolored, or "dirty"???

I put in a separate reservoir for my clutch due to the belief that if the brake fluid should become boiled/degraded/compromised the clutch operation would be ok...

And if one is going to be bleeding brakes for track use, fluid upgrades, etc., no need to involve the clutch...(The clutch really has no way to be bled anyhow....???...)

[Skylane765]

It gets dark by moister and air. Just pore some in to a cup and leave it sit for a few months, it will turn dark.

I said from the beginning if you are using the same fluid, no need for 2 tanks. If using 2 fluids yes 2 tanks may be the way to go.

The clutch never gets pressure like brakes do, so most issues for changing fluid is for the brakes.

You can still change brake fluid with out messing with the clutch with one tank.
Everyone wants to save weight, now you are adding weight

[Skylane765]

separate reservoir for my clutch due to the belief that if the brake fluid should become boiled/degraded/compromised the clutch operation would be ok...

Is that happens you have been using the wrong fluid and that should never happen. The clutch will work with water or hydraulic fluid. Brakes will not.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

But when you go to the 2 tanks its funny how the clutch tank fluid gets dark with in 2-3K Mi and the same fluid in the brake tank does not get dark in that time.


As to the weight added its a small price to pay if at the track your pedal goes to the floor, what you saved in weight does not mean any thing at that point.

[McRat]

Originally Posted by Skylane765

No way! It can not do that... Who said that, what data do you have to prove that?

There is no way you can boil fluid in the clutch system. Pressure to low.
I have 100s of tanks here and could sell them to you guys, but it's not going to help anything. I have worked on both clutch and brake systems.

With no water contamination, DOT3 boils in the low 400's. With water contamination, in the low 300's.

Clutches get really hot, and cooling is non-existent. Just the air can be 400.

If it's NOT contraction from boiling then cooling, how does the pedal stick to the floor?

You launch OK. You power shift the 1-2, 2-3, then 3-4. Now you pop into neutral. It's been under 13 seconds since you first engaged the clutch.

You slow down to hit the return road, and when you push on the clutch pedal, it stays down, and does not disengage. Hundreds or thousands of us have seen it.

The more use the clutch has experienced, the more likely it is to happen. On the autopsy, the pressure plate is bright blue, and the clutch is hopelessly glazed. Doing nothing but replacing the clutch and pressure plate will return it to operation, but the next time, it happens with less use.

So while it is a sign of a worn-out clutch assy, the pedal should not stick to the floor, effectively making your car direct drive. That is a problem.

[Skylane765]

Clutch fluid will never get hot like brakes. It will never get to 300 dig even if you slip the clutch to burn it. The fluid is to far away from where the clutch gets hot.
You can add anything you want, I am just stating facts on how the system works. I have worked on this type equipment most of my life.

[RLHMARINES]

This is some helpful info about clutch issues on high performance cars that a well respected drag racer had to say on what is going on.

[Skylane765]

There is always some one that has a better mouse trap, most are not better and just different to make a buck.

Of all the liability and the engineers GM has, they built the car knowing what they were doing. Yes there are a few items we can upgrade better for the track, adding a reservoir I have to say is not tops on that list. GM know the liability in brakes for cars and knows what they are doing.

[Skylane765]

Originally Posted by ZL575BumbleBee

Trust me I have no knowledge but if the clutch and the brake share the same cylinder then the clutch fluid does get hot and degrade couldn't it cause this problem ?? (I am just trying to learn here so if my questions seem silly I am sorry in advance)

I know Lingenfelter sells a clutch return spring kit (Purpose ??)

LINGENFELTER CAMARO SS CTS-V CLUTCH PEDAL RETURN KIT 2009-2013



The Camaro SS & Cadillac CTS-V factory clutch systems have had issues with the clutch pedal going to the floor under high RPM use and not returning to the correct position. The Lingenfelter Clutch Pedal Return kit will solve this problem and is fairly easy to install. The Clutch Pedal Return kit includes a stainless steel spring with a dampening sleeve to prevent noise. Clutch pedal return kit fits all Camaro SS 2010-2013, CTS-V 2009-2013.

http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...6#.U72owfldVZt

There are people selling many items that are just worthless to make money on un educated owners that are not on a site like this that show both sides of the story.

I am not selling anything for the cap issue, just showing how to keep it from leaking.