SS/ZL1: Changing rear parking brake shoes?

[TheBrightSide]

I’ve found some cheap parking brake shoes for the rear brake (rotors?), and I’m wondering how the replacement process is; or whether I should change mine out at all?

My parking brake is still fully fine, not stretched; and all my brake rotors are still the OEM ones that came on the earlier 2010 models (not sure what AC Delco or GM part numbers they are). The parking brake shoes are a separate part of the rear brakes that can still remain intact, even after the rear rotors are removed?

If I don’t absolutely need to replace the rear parking brake shoes, then I won’t. I’m not even planning to replace my rotors until after my next set of brake pads wears out. Does anyone know how thick rotors should generally be? I know mine have gone through at least 2-3 sets of brake pads over the years before I got the car.

I would assume that the parking brake shoes would last as long as the rear rotors; if not, LONGER than them, since they’re only used while parking (minus using it outside of that lol). Would cheaping out on parking brake shoes be a bad thing? I typically stick to solid brake rotors and semi-metallic brake pads for the 5th gen Camaro SS, so…. Only other thing I usually run occasionally, is ceramic or hybrid material brake pads.

[el ess A]

If it ain't broke, don't break it. This is JMO.

That is a separate system. If your handle and cables and parking brakes are working like they should, there's no reason to change them. If you're doing your hydraulic side anyway, it won't hurt to inspect them for cracks, deterioration, problems. But if they're in good shape, no reason to replace them unless you just want to spend some $$.

If the rotors have not been trued on any of those brake pad replacements, you may want to at least think about doing that much. You can at least inspect them and check them.

IIRC, 32 mm is the new thickness of the front rotors. 30 mm is the discard thickness. 28 is new thickness of rear rotors, and 26 mm is the discard thickness. I thought they were marked somewhere on the rotors of this measurement. I could be wrong.

My rule of thumb on that is if they're within 1 mm of discard thickness, get new rotors. If not too wobbly, and greater than 1 mm of discard thickness, try truing first. Rule of thumb- turn rotors every other pad change. Unless terribly scored, etc.

Rockauto has the GM rotors for about 600 per complete front/rear set.

AC Delco p/n 177-1050 (GM#92245928) fronts and (GM#92245929) 177-1051 rears (super pricey).

If you really just have to have the parking shoes, they're GM p/n 92234842, but spending $70+ for them seems a bit excessive if you don't actually need them.

[Moto-Mojo]

The GM 'drum within a rotor' is the WORST design. I have worn out multiple shoes on an old Yukon. Since there are warning lights, buzzers and bells, you have to be blind and deaf to drive with the e-brake on. They either rub - or more often, go out of adjustment and don't work at all.

At least the Camaro has a little spring to hold the adjustment star in place. So ya got that going for ya!

[Blue 13]

My parking brake doesn’t work at all. Maybe I’ll get around to having it checked. The guy that did the tires said it’s the absolute dumbest design ever and refused to try and fix it.

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by Blue 13

My parking brake doesn’t work at all. Maybe I’ll get around to having it checked. The guy that did the tires said it’s the absolute dumbest design ever and refused to try and fix it.

Looks like you and the last poster have an L99 setup haha. Doesn’t mean you never have to use your hand/parking brake, you can most definitely get away with leaving the car in just ‘park’.

What do you do when parking on inclines..? (A serious question)

[TheBrightSide]

Originally Posted by el ess A

If it ain't broke, don't break it. This is JMO.

That is a separate system. If your handle and cables and parking brakes are working like they should, there's no reason to change them. If you're doing your hydraulic side anyway, it won't hurt to inspect them for cracks, deterioration, problems. But if they're in good shape, no reason to replace them unless you just want to spend some $$.

If the rotors have not been trued on any of those brake pad replacements, you may want to at least think about doing that much. You can at least inspect them and check them.

IIRC, 32 mm is the new thickness of the front rotors. 30 mm is the discard thickness. 28 is new thickness of rear rotors, and 26 mm is the discard thickness. I thought they were marked somewhere on the rotors of this measurement. I could be wrong.

My rule of thumb on that is if they're within 1 mm of discard thickness, get new rotors. If not too wobbly, and greater than 1 mm of discard thickness, try truing first. Rule of thumb- turn rotors every other pad change. Unless terribly scored, etc.

Rockauto has the GM rotors for about 600 per complete front/rear set.

AC Delco p/n 177-1050 (GM#92245928) fronts and (GM#92245929) 177-1051 rears (super pricey).

If you really just have to have the parking shoes, they're GM p/n 92234842, but spending $70+ for them seems a bit excessive if you don't actually need them.

Looks like I’ll probably just leave my hand brake alone then. Is the parking/hand brake that GM uses, any different from the typical, common self-adjusting hardware in most parking brake setups?

As for the brake rotors, I was debating running aftermarket, generic ones. People have told me that the OEM rotors were the best, as far as what comes factory on the Camaro V8 models. I’m definitely not planning to run the cheap drilled and slotted rotors, as I’m afraid those might generate stress cracks or start warping somehow..

I might just opt for some generic aftermarket, solid brake rotors; preferably ones that have a nice rust-proof coating. I was debating some AC Delco semi-metallic brake pads, but I’m not sure of the exact parts numbers; the factory P/N’s for the brake parts has been a confusing research process for me..

I’ve been tempted to run cheap brake rotors and pads; but even on eBay, a decent search will show that a full brake rotor and pad replacement (with the exception of caliper hardware, unless included), can easily run anywhere from ~$250-400+ (low to mid grade brake parts). Expensive stuff, like Hawk brake pads or Brembo brake pads and/or rotors, will easily run $150+ per pad set, and around ~$150+ per rotor(?)

[Blue 13]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

Looks like you and the last poster have an L99 setup haha. Doesn’t mean you never have to use your hand/parking brake, you can most definitely get away with leaving the car in just ‘park’.

What do you do when parking on inclines..? (A serious question)

I’ve never had a problem just leaving it in park. I would like it fixed just so it does work but I’m not going to some idiot Chevy dealer to do it.

[Blue 13]

Originally Posted by TheBrightSide

Looks like I’ll probably just leave my hand brake alone then. Is the parking/hand brake that GM uses, any different from the typical, common self-adjusting hardware in most parking brake setups?

As for the brake rotors, I was debating running aftermarket, generic ones. People have told me that the OEM rotors were the best, as far as what comes factory on the Camaro V8 models. I’m definitely not planning to run the cheap drilled and slotted rotors, as I’m afraid those might generate stress cracks or start warping somehow..

I might just opt for some generic aftermarket, solid brake rotors; preferably ones that have a nice rust-proof coating. I was debating some AC Delco semi-metallic brake pads, but I’m not sure of the exact parts numbers; the factory P/N’s for the brake parts has been a confusing research process for me..

If your car is stock you can probably get by with OEM, but there are absolutely far better things out there in the aftermarket.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Originally Posted by Blue 13

I’ve never had a problem just leaving it in park. I would like it fixed just so it does work but I’m not going to some idiot Chevy dealer to do it.

Knowing GM the parts are probably discontinued anyway so I’m sure the dealer will be even less help than normal.

[Blue 13]

Breaking my heart Aqua.

[InFiD3ViL]

Originally Posted by Aqua Blue RS/SS

Knowing GM the parts are probably discontinued anyway so I’m sure the dealer will be even less help than normal.

Preach it brother!

Freaking GM. How one company can be a combination of the absolute best yet worst ideas is beyond me. They excel at it.

[ABM2SS]

The GM 'drum within a rotor' is the WORST design.

I don't agree with this. Replacing them is not much different from most drum brake shoe replacements. The single piston Rear Disc Brake Pad replacements that I've done require twisting the piston while pressing it back into the caliper, I don't see how that could be done with multiple-piston set-ups. The Drum-in-Rotor design seems to be the right answer for cars Multiple Piston Calipers.