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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2013 ZL1 416 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Langley B.C
Posts: 2,623
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man are you guys serious people pay $4k plus to change a cam !
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#16 |
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Started#gottalovethatblue
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When you have to pull the heads, change the lifters, delete AFM, possibly delete VVT, all in addition to the cam swap, yes. It SUCKS. Another reason why some days I wish I'd just bought a manual.
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#17 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS ABM 6M Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 617
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Quote:
Right? Posts like this make me feel pretty good about doing mine myself (first time cracking open an LS engine). I did cam/spring package, ported heads, solid trunion bushings, pushrods, lifters, buckets, new gaskets, ARP head bolts, new oil pump, new timing chain, ls2 dampener, fluids, and I was right at like $3k WITH the tune. Without the heads it would have been considerably less for just the cam and ALL associated parts. Admittedly I bought some things new I could have probably reused and saved some money...but I didn't want to have to open it back up again or destroy an engine because I wanted to save a couple hundred bucks. Also, being a DYI, there's a chance I did something wrong that will come back to bite me. However, I have seen people put down a pretty penny for a shop to do the work and end up having serious issues shortly down the line, and get no help. So, I was happy taking my chances. ![]() All that said, I don't think this quote is terribly out of line for someone else to do the work. It wasn't particularly hard, but this was a very long job and I had my car torn down for weeks working on it. $80/hr for a shop, and ~22 hours worth of work = $1760. Add that to the parts and that quote isn't super crazy. Does seem a little high still since OP had no mention of the heads. But $4k+ wouldn't shock me at all. Good mechanics aren't cheap!!
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2010 ABM 2SS/RS LS3 6 Speed -- Rotofab CAI | Speed Engineering 1 7/8" Longtubes w/ cat Delete | Magnaflow competition catback | TSP 231/246 cam| TSP/PAC .660" Spring Kit | TSP CNC Ported Heads | Bo White PTB | GPI Ported/RM Intake | 3.91's | BC Catch Can | MGW Shifter | BMR 1" Drop Springs | BMR Trailing arms/Toe Rods/Rear UCA Bushings | Pegasus Subframe Mounts
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#18 |
![]() Drives: 14 Silverado LTZ 4wd 5.3 Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 143
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Not sure why people would be trying to avoid the converter change. Thats what makes autos really fun! If your going to drop that much on a cam kit Id get the biggest you can get that wont need new springs every 10k.
If it really costs this much to have a cam installed(and you cant do it yourself) I would be looking at FI. There are kits installed for not much more than this cam quote...
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2014 Silverado LTZ 5.3
Sold: 95 Taurus SE 00 Z28 A4 06 TBSS 06 GTO M6 02 F150 01 B4C A4 05 GTO M6 02 Z28 M6 |
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#19 |
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old school chevy rodder
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Building a car right it takes a bit of planning and lots of research, if you want FI mostly ….go lower boost and kits are usually around 7k just to install a better one like edelbrock or 2300 ,then theres install and tune; now there are some cheaper kits from the zl1 out there, or prochargers etc and basically your limited with Hypereutectic pistons and non forged components if your smart and do want to watch the health of any High flow cats and the AFR and the amount of boost with stock head gaskets even.
Modifying the surround around the radiator needed for plumbing the cooler etc needed and results vary as does longevity if not done right for any install. With cams you have to maintain; I use driven racing LS30 oil but many just use regular oil not being stupid and going to some different grade to trash the top end.. Springs on most aftermarket lifts have to be smart and change springs at like 25k intervals if not trashing it regularly, and varied parts to upgrade recommended...… things like timing chain, dampener, oil pump, trunnions, lifter baskets, lifters etc ….. And for anyone I recommend a speedhut shift light that's obd2 plug and play also to help not hit the limiter bouncing off it looking stupid...LOL And really either way look to upgrade the trailing arms and toes for anti wheel hop. Good Luck. I use a shop that guarantees the work and does it perfectly as not working is not a option and experience is more like $100 a hr BTW and $550 dyno tune for the best. My tuner Thomas Wong of wongs performance engineering. wanna drool...…….. https://www.facebook.com/Wongs-Perfo...-115667950915/ Failure is not a option for me and many others.
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2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data,Red Carbon Interior, Nav, RotoFab Big Gulp , Elite x2ultra, Borla ATAK, Driveshaft shop, BMR susp, Speed covers, intercoolers, ATI , 2650 MAG, DSX lid, 103 NW, TSP Longtubes & cats, LPE, 1le mods, ,LME cover, Katech pump and chain, Trunnions, BTR stage 2, LPE boostapump, Gforce, Speed eng , Granetteli, etc etc
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#20 |
![]() Drives: 2014 2SS blue Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Socal
Posts: 689
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My first thought is: sell the car and get a ZL1. First, you end up with a car that has a market value equivalent to what you have into it in $$$. Second, you can finance it all. Third, it's insured for all of what you have in it. Fourth, it will be faster by a long shot. Fifth, it has all the heavy duty stuff in the driveline. Sixth, it has all the suspension and tire upgrades. Seventh, it has the brake upgrades (going faster upgrades should be accompanied by stopping better upgrades, but rarely are).
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#21 |
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#938 of 1524
Drives: 2013 Hot Wheels Edition Camaro Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 194
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Those kinds of prices are a bit much if you ask me. I built a brand spanking new 5.3 liter with a nice cam for that much money. Sure, the 5.3 ain't no 6.2, but it's still in the same engine family. It's a sense of pride and accomplishment to do everything yourself.
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#22 |
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I’m doing stage 3 cam kit (lifters, springs, reunions, etc.) , flex fuel sensor and tune, new injectors for 5k I’d say 4700 is a tad steep, but every shops rate is different. Not outrageous just a bit pricier.
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Work hard, play harder
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