Prep for Ceramic coating

[BRZN]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Impossible to do a complete paint correction in 4-6 hours by yourself using a R/O polisher.

I beg to differ

Everyone's idea of perfect paint is different, everyone's level of experience is different. You've got to be realistic, with realistic expectations. Also, depends on your tools.

If you're reading into the, "So thinking about doing some paint correction and ceramic coating", is taking a hammered vehicle to concourse level then yup, it'd take more than 4-6 hours. Does the OP want perfect paint? Don't know. If it's a daily driven car that needs minimal correction 4-6 hours is definitely doable. Daily driven cars don't need the level of correction show cars do.

Oh, and StreetRage320 Joe M seems to believe he knows about everything regarding auto detailing, and will argue with you. He also seems pretty good at finding You Tube links. He needs to get the last word in so just wait for it...

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by BRZN

I beg to differ

Everyone's idea of perfect paint is different, everyone's level of experience is different. You've got to be realistic, with realistic expectations. Also, depends on your tools.

An idea is just that... what the standard is has no variance, it's either defect free or it isn't.
I don't base my suggestions on opinion, but facts.....the tool mentioned was a "STANDARD R/O POLISHER".
Had you actually read the thread you would have known this, but as standard from you, you make comments without even knowing what your commenting on.
The OP's car is 9 years old, from his request he is asking about "PAINT CORRECTION". Paint correction does not involve a quick slap, slap, slap and your done. It requires compounding and polishing, which when done CORRECTLY, will take much more than 6 hours with a STANDARD R/O.

Originally Posted by BRZN

If you're reading into the, "So thinking about doing some paint correction and ceramic coating", is taking a hammered vehicle to concourse level then yup, it'd take more than 4-6 hours. Does the OP want perfect paint? Don't know. If it's a daily driven car that needs minimal correction 4-6 hours is definitely doable. Daily driven cars don't need the level of correction show cars do.

You left off when he said "DEFINATELY PAINT CORRECTION". He didn't state the paint's current condition. How many 9 year old cars exist that are completely swirl free?
Very few if any. Perfect Paint cannot be obtained with compounding and polishing alone.....wetsanding must be done to level the clear first, even then it may not end up perfect as the base coat may have orange peel in it.

The OP didn't say anything about perfection...he stated PAINT CORRECTION.
My car is a daily driver and is completely swirl free. I removed the swirls 5 years ago, and haven't had to compound the car again......had the OP already done this...he wouldn't be asking about how to correct his paint...not being rude, just HONEST....something you know nothing about.

Originally Posted by BRZN

Oh, and StreetRage320 Joe M seems to believe he knows about everything regarding auto detailing, and will argue with you. He also seems pretty good at finding You Tube links. He needs to get the last word in so just wait for it...

There is no argument here, there are simply facts, and .
I have NEVER posted that I know everything about detailing, instead many times posted that what I have learned was from professional detailers that taught me the CORRECT way to do things, my only objective is to share this information. So instead of , people get the RIGHT way to do it.

The You Tube videos I use show the proper processes that I was taught, so posting them vs. writing an essay explaining them is exponentially beneficial. A video of the process is worth a thousand words.

Correcting paint is not rocket science, it involves proper lighting to inspect the initial condition, proper compound/pad to remove the defects, which is accomplished with proper technique, same goes for finishing.

I've helped many people on this forum with their cars, not to "toot my horn", but just to share with them the RIGHT way....because I believe in helping people, sharing with them what was taught to me, expecting absolutely nothing in return.

Instead of trying to shove 1 brand of product down their throat as you do.

[b4wheeler]

OP here,
To answer at least one question, I have corrected the paint on this car once already.
And 4-6 hours was never going to be possible.
Took me at least 3-4 weeks, off and on... Never done it before and made sure I watched a lot of videos and took my time so as no to screw up.

This time I want to clay the contaminants off and then remove the swirls from a year of poor wash habits.

The car is retired from D/D duty and will spend most of its time in the garage or under cover...

Edit: Not real good at this forum stuff, tend to talk my way into the weeds and then cant get out.
Ask me a specific point and I can answer it.

Basically,I want to prep my car for a ceramic coating but don't want to screw up and coat in the swirls or imperfections.

Exact technique and products is fine with me.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by b4wheeler

OP here,
To answer at least one question, I have corrected the paint on this car once already.
And 4-6 hours was never going to be possible.
Took me at least 3-4 weeks, off and on... Never done it before and made sure I watched a lot of videos and took my time so as no to screw up.

This time I want to clay the contaminants off and then remove the swirls from a year of poor wash habits.

The car is retired from D/D duty and will spend most of its time in the garage or under cover...

Edit: Not real good at this forum stuff, tend to talk my way into the weeds and then cant get out.
Ask me a specific point and I can answer it.

Basically,I want to prep my car for a ceramic coating but don't want to screw up and coat in the swirls or imperfections.

Exact technique and products is fine with me.

Don't feel bad about the washing/drying induced marring, every single person who washes their car has made mistakes at some point. I know I did.

Since your car will now be garaged/covered, washing it will be much easier, as it won't have the same level of dirt a DD will. The big thing about reducing marring while washing/drying is the use of pressure.

You mentioned you like Meguiars……..I'm assuming for finishing you used M205?
Depending on the depth of the marring that was induced over a years time, you could possibly get away with using it, and a medium cut pad. Since your not going to drive it much anymore, a jeweling finish is recommended to produce the maximum gloss once you remove the defects and polish. This is basically a no cut pad with a very fine polish.

Which machine are you using? What compounds/polish do you have? Can you take a picture of the paint close up (2 feet or less?) If you cannot, then prep the car for compounding/polishing, Do only a 2 ft. x 2 ft. section using the polish/pad you have with the lowest amount of cut. If the defects are not removed, use a polish you have with more cut, or switch to a more aggressive pad.

As you probably already learned in your research, start with the least aggressive method, and work your way up.

A picture of your paint up close would really help.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

If this is your first time applying a coating, I highly recommend Optimum Gloss Coat. I haven't tried all the coatings on the market, there are too many, but of the one's I have used this is the easiest to apply and most user friendly.

When your car is swirl free after polishing the first step is to remove any polishing residues off the paint.

Use a paint prep, or just mix Isopropyl Alcohol to about 15-20% with distilled water.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

I haven't seen your paint, so I cannot tell if this would be all that you need, but, if your car ONLY has light wash marring, this is the product to polish it with before applying a coating...why?.....One slow pass is all that is needed......saving you time and the gloss from this is outstanding...….Meguiars DMF microfiber finishing pads are best for light marring.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Chances are you probably leaned the cross hatch method for polishing paint, this works good on flat areas, but doesn't work well on curves. You have to alter your technique in these areas.

[StreetRage320]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Impossible to do a complete paint correction in 4-6 hours by yourself using a R/O polisher.

1st step) Strip wash......30-45 minutes.

2nd step) Clay or clay alternative.... 30 minutes to 1.5 hours depending on how much bonded contaminates are on the paint, and which version you use.

3rd step) Iron decontamination....20 minutes.

4th step) IPA or Eraser wipedown….20 minutes.

5th step) Compounding......4-10 hours depending on how bad the paint is, which compound/pad you use, and which machine you use.....and what level of correction you desire.

6th step) Polishing....same as compounding.... 4-10 hours. Could go longer using some finishing polishes.

Sorry Joe, ran out of time earlier this week to keep up. You sure type a lot, that's awesome though for sure.

So step 1-4 are not paint correcting, and you just stated to BRN that step 6 polishing is also not paint correcting. So are you trying to tell me you can Paint Correct your entire Camaro in as little as 4 hours? I was told by the smartest detailer in the entire world that is not possible.

Also you say that polishing is the same as compounding?

just trying to learn from an expert, please help!

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

Sorry Joe, ran out of time earlier this week to keep up. You sure type a lot, that's awesome though for sure.

So step 1-4 are not paint correcting, and you just stated to BRN that step 6 polishing is also not paint correcting. So are you trying to tell me you can Paint Correct your entire Camaro in as little as 4 hours? I was told by the smartest detailer in the entire world that is not possible.

Also you say that polishing is the same as compounding?

just trying to learn from an expert, please help!

Steps 1-4 are prep.....when I said same as polishing, I was referring to TIME needed, read it again.

I never stated I CORRETED my paint in 4 hours, what I stated was that after a year, the only thing I need to do is go back over it with ESSENCE, because it doesn't need correction, only finishing. Correction is REMOVING paint to level defects. This is done while compounding. Polishing is bringing the finish to a high gloss.

I would really like to help the OP, and not continue in this useless conversation with you...….the OP already stated that he corrected his paint once and 4-6 hours was impossible, as I already knew, as does ANYONE who has done it.

If you don't have something of benefit to the OP, which so far you have not offered, go troll someone's else's thread. I'm trying to help someone here.

[StreetRage320]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

5th step) Compounding......4-10 hours depending on how bad the paint is, which compound/pad you use, and which machine you use.....and what level of correction you desire..

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[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

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Originally Posted by b4wheeler

4-6 hours was never going to be possible

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

5th step) Compounding......4-10 hours depending on how bad the paint is, which compound/pad you use, and WHICH MACHINE you use.....and what level of correction you desire

These steps I posted were for the ENTIRE procedure, how much time it takes to compound really means nothing, because the rest of the steps HAVE to be performed as well. The machine used has the GREATEST impact on cutting rate.

A basic R/O polisher isn't going to do the compounding job in 4-6 hours, you'll need a Flex 3401 or a Rupes 21 w/KBWM to POSSIBLY do it in 4-6 hours, neither of these are basic R/O polishers.