Stock internals limits - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

spadz93 · 07-22-2020, 10:25 PM

How far down the modding rabbit hole does one have to go before they should more strongly consider rods, pistons, or other internals?

JB'sZL1 · 07-23-2020, 06:31 AM

I think the common practice is rods, trunnions and springs once you hit 700hp. From what I've read, I would not go past 750-800 rwhp before doing some serious modding to the engine and transmission. But if you're chasing that much hp, an iron block is the way to go imo.

spadz93 · 07-23-2020, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

I think the common practice is rods, trunnions and springs once you hit 700hp. From what I've read, I would not go past 750-800 rwhp before doing some serious modding to the engine and transmission. But if you're chasing that much hp, an iron block is the way to go imo.

I have the mods in my sig, and was planning on doing a cam with trunions, pushrods and springs (along with oil pump, timing chain, etc). Would I be able to do this without having to dig into the pistons and connecting rods?

JB'sZL1 · 07-23-2020, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spadz93

I have the mods in my sig, and was planning on doing a cam with trunions, pushrods and springs (along with oil pump, timing chain, etc). Would I be able to do this without having to dig into the pistons and connecting rods?

Yes. That's been done many times successfully, and that is what I've done. You may want to reinforce your brick as well.

Vegas Bound · 07-23-2020, 01:19 PM

Definitely do the brick, cheap $100 insurance. Larger reservoir (not Rotofab) would help with IAT2 temps.

spadz93 · 07-23-2020, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

Yes. That's been done many times successfully, and that is what I've done. You may want to reinforce your brick as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas Bound

Definitely do the brick, cheap $100 insurance. Larger reservoir (not Rotofab) would help with IAT2 temps.

Already have a heat exchanger, a reservoir, and a reinforced brick.

Crash76 · 07-23-2020, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas Bound

Definitely do the brick, cheap $100 insurance. Larger reservoir (not Rotofab) would help with IAT2 temps.

What is wrong with rotofab ? Ive had mine in for years

Vegas Bound · 07-23-2020, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crash76

What is wrong with rotofab ? Ive had mine in for years

The cap strips the threads on the tank and it leaks. Mine is wrapped with lots of teflon tape. It is a known issue at Rotofab.

Crash76 · 07-23-2020, 04:43 PM

Gotcha, ill keep an eye on it, havent had any issues yet

spadz93 · 07-23-2020, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas Bound

The cap strips the threads on the tank and it leaks. Mine is wrapped with lots of teflon tape. It is a known issue at Rotofab.

Hence why I went prospeed

d454brisson · 07-26-2020, 01:39 PM

The roto fab reservoir isnt offered anymore. They told us with leakers to go pound sand ( so I stripped my roto fab cai also and went with RPM 5 inch.

I have the same mods with a JRE rough idle cam, trunion set and a touch more lower pulley. Also have my SC ported by Kong. No big issues yet but I dont push it very hard either. I have been thinking about the TSP stage 3 blower cam as the lift will help lower the boost a bit and should be a touch more efficient.

Bottom end or short block is inevitable but so far so good.

DB

JB'sZL1 · 07-26-2020, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by d454brisson

No big issues yet but I dont push it very hard either. I have been thinking about the TSP stage 3 blower cam as the lift will help lower the boost a bit and should be a touch more efficient.

How much boost?

Pogoattack84 · 07-27-2020, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spadz93

How far down the modding rabbit hole does one have to go before they should more strongly consider rods, pistons, or other internals?

As long as you don't push past the limits of the stock blower then you should be fine with stock internals.

Different blower or turbo setup I would do internals.

JB'sZL1 · 07-27-2020, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pogoattack84

As long as you don't push past the limits of the stock blower then you should be fine with stock internals.

Different blower or turbo setup I would do internals.

I've heard of guys pushing 800rwhp, even over on the stock 1900. Everything I've read is at 700 rwhp, it is prudent to do rods, trunnions, reinforce the brick, as well as some ancillary external mods for protection.

07-22-2020, 10:25 PM	#1
spadz93 BUMBL Z Drives: 2015 ZL1 Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 2,577 View My Garage	Stock internals limits How far down the modding rabbit hole does one have to go before they should more strongly consider rods, pistons, or other internals? __________________ Sold: 2015 ZL1 M6, Rotofab Intake, LS3 throttle body, 2.55 Upper/9.17 Lower, Custom Camshaft, DMS Reinforced Brick, ID1050X, 1 7/8" Headers, ProSpeed HX/Reservoir, DSX Aux Pump/Flex Fuel Sensor, E85, McLeod RXT, BMR 1" Drop, 680rw 93/750rw E85, Tuned by CSP Sold: 2010 2SS, some bolt ons, 415rwhp/400rwtq

07-23-2020, 06:31 AM	#2
JB'sZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 and 2019 Ram Laramie Join Date: May 2017 Location: Milwaukee Posts: 1,259	I think the common practice is rods, trunnions and springs once you hit 700hp. From what I've read, I would not go past 750-800 rwhp before doing some serious modding to the engine and transmission. But if you're chasing that much hp, an iron block is the way to go imo.

07-23-2020, 01:19 PM	#5
Vegas Bound Account Suspended Drives: 2013 Sparkly Red One Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Hospitality State Posts: 2,558	Definitely do the brick, cheap $100 insurance. Larger reservoir (not Rotofab) would help with IAT2 temps.

07-23-2020, 04:43 PM	#9
Crash76 Team 913 Drives: '14 ZL1, '15 Jeep GC, ‘22 Ram 2500 Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: USA, Central CA Posts: 1,119	Gotcha, ill keep an eye on it, havent had any issues yet

07-26-2020, 01:39 PM	#11
d454brisson Drives: 2014 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Baltimore MD Posts: 345	The roto fab reservoir isnt offered anymore. They told us with leakers to go pound sand ( so I stripped my roto fab cai also and went with RPM 5 inch. I have the same mods with a JRE rough idle cam, trunion set and a touch more lower pulley. Also have my SC ported by Kong. No big issues yet but I dont push it very hard either. I have been thinking about the TSP stage 3 blower cam as the lift will help lower the boost a bit and should be a touch more efficient. Bottom end or short block is inevitable but so far so good. DB