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Old 12-06-2024, 07:40 PM   #1
GEN5SSCO
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS 6M
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2010 Camaro SS won’t move after clutch drop

The other day I went to do a burn out and did the normal rev to 4 grand and drop the clutch, well she hopped a bit and then all the sudden no movement from the tires but then engine revved up. There was no clutch smell or smoke of any sort but then I realized I couldn’t get the thing to move, after trying a few times I managed to get it to engage and roll a few feet but it popped loud enough to feel it a bit and disengaged again. Haven’t been able to get it on a lift yet but just thought I’d try to get ahead and see if anyone has experienced anything similar? It’s a 2010 as with about 41,000 miles on it
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Old 12-06-2024, 08:41 PM   #2
CamaroCracka


 
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Happened when I broke my axle and when I broke my driveshaft. Don't try to get it to move any more until you look at the underside. you are likely making things worse.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.

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Old 01-26-2025, 05:57 PM   #3
TheBrightSide
 
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT)
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Still curious on the update. Like other commenter said, probably broke an axle; although breaking the stock driveshaft u-joint might also not be uncommon either. Let’s just hope you didn’t break anything inside the actual rear differential…
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Old 01-26-2025, 09:02 PM   #4
chef-beavis

 
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Early 10's had a bulletin for soft transmission output shafts.
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Old 02-01-2025, 06:45 PM   #5
TheBrightSide
 
Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef-beavis View Post
Early 10's had a bulletin for soft transmission output shafts.
Exactly what I have… LOL I’ve never launched this car without pre-loading and maybe slipping the clutch under 3k RPM’s if even that. I stopped doing that altogether and barely even bang gears nowadays, due to the older brass synchronizers. I might even take out my Hurst billet short shifter, although I’ve come so accustomed to it.

I never engage in anything that requires the clutch to be dropped abruptly (clutch kick, etc.), so I mostly modulate the throttle mostly. As much as I wanted to build my 2010 2SS into a budget drift build, I’m definitely keeping it as a semi-reliable daily driver at the moment… Hell, I even change the rear diff oil in it like once a year, since it’s easy enough to do with the tools and ramps I have.

The factory LSD in the car doesn’t really like doing donuts and drifting, as I found out rather early on. I believe I lifted one rear wheel at a time at some point early on and checked the break-away torque, but didn’t seem to find anything abnormal. It just seems like the stock posi likes to one-wheel on turns much more than anything in a straight line.
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