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#1 |
![]() Drives: 2013 Black 2SS Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Hendersonville, TN
Posts: 78
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Struggling with exhaust issue
About a year ago I hit something metal in the road and thankfully the damage was only to the bend in the passenger side pipe after the HFC. It was early in my drive home from TX, so I had to continue to drive and then had to for another couple of weeks before fully fixing.
Sound hasn't been right since then; more hesitation in the midrange; sounds extra muffled. I had a shop cut out that section and weld in a replacement. I have dual-mode exhaust which I love the sound of. However, I'm thinking they must have done a really poor welding job as I think there is quite a bit of rough slag on the interior welds? I've done a bunch of testing, trial and error fixes, and looking at other issues. I'm thinking maybe its not flowing freely, more backpressure, not scavenging properly? I've changed spark plugs, air filter, new mass airflow sensor, cleaned throttle body... nothing on that end has made a difference. Maybe my entire exhaust is now crapped out? Think I can get a shop to replace catback through x-pipe and still keep dual-mode? Or likely have to replace whole system? After that I have to fix my new mysterious drop in oil pressure when warm.
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2013 2SS ::: MiSSy
BTR Stage 3 :: GM 3.91 :: Eaton TrueTrac :: SW LT Headers :: Elite Catch Can :: CAI :: ADM Cold Scoop :: VMAX ported TB :: Forza 3Way :: BMR Lowering Springs/Toe Rods/Lower CA/Trailing Arms/Subframe Bushings |
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#2 |
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It don’t come easy.
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Any way to get a camera at the inside the weld area, to see how much “slag” might be there?
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#3 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 367
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How many miles are you at? Sometimes the oil pump pickup gaskets need to be replaced… I’m not sure if an exhaust would get THAT restrictive, that it would work against the engine that much. Even in that case, it would mean that the oil pressure would raise/increase, no decrease, no..?
If you want to check the exhaust system flow/operation, you can pull the fuse on the NPP exhaust system, which will leave the valves fully open. At that point, it should be a fully flowing catback exhaust system. I would probably start checking other things regarding engine oil pressure, as it could be something internal (ex: oil bypass valve, “dog bone”)… I have a leaking oil pan gasket, and I’m currently at around ~48k miles right now. I plan on re-using the stock oil pump, but I will be getting rid of the factory plastic/composite(?) oil bypass “dog bone” valve, and then installing a billet one, with fresh new o-rings. Same thing goes with replacing the oil pump pickup tube o-rings, since they can degrade over time I will also be installing a pickup tube brace as well, while I’m in there.. People also say to avoid running a high pressure engine oil pump, if you’re running a “basic” NA engine setup. I would also trust my stock, factory OEM oil pump, rather than some random one. I do, however, trust most Melling engine oil pumps for GM LS V8 engines though. |
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#4 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 CGM 2SS/RS LS3 Swapped A6 Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Spring Hill, FL
Posts: 4,733
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While you are in there I would suggest replacing the camshaft retainer plate. It has an o-ring type seal that can also cause oil pressure issues, as it flattens out over time. Its like $25 for the GM one.
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2010 CGM Camaro 2SS LS3 Swapped A6 - GPI LS3 SS1 .647/.638, (224/237, 112 +4, 7º overlap) on CamMotion 8620 core, BTR Platinum .660" Dual Spring kit w/titanium retainers, CHE bronze trunnion upgrade, stock heads milled @ .015, Melling HV 10296 oil pump, TSP 1-7/8" long tube headers (W/Catless Off-road Pipes), Corsa Xtreme 3" Catback, GPI Ported/Rod Mod Intake, Stage 2 Ported Throttle Body, Vararam OTR CAI, Mike Norris Gen 2 catch can + GM 1LE clean side separator, 160º thermostat - Megan Racing adjustable coilovers (lowered 1.75"), MRR M017 10/11" wheels-Tuned by Ryan @ GPI
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 3,029
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The stock 2.5" exhaust is plenty for the LS3. A little bit of welding slag is not going to affect it. I would be looking for an obstruction, like the internal tubing on the muffler broke or a something clogging the cat. I would also look at the header gasket as small leak created by the hit on the exhaust could affect performance.
Are you only noticing the difference when the NPP should be kicking in, i.e. is the dual mode working. IIRC, they operate off of vacuum and should be open when the car is shut off. As was mentioned a cheap borescope might be a good investment.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1 brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. Gen6 ZL1 brakes. |
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#6 | |
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Wifey Lover
Drives: 2013 2LT to 2SS Manual Conversion Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Posts: 1,627
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Quote:
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2,L99, LSA SC Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 2,433
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Not really possible to have enough slag on the weld that it will change the sound. Start looking elsewhere.
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#8 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 Chevrolet Camaro l99 Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 2,230
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Quote:
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DSS Pistons, Eagle ESP L19 Rods, ARP Head and Main Studs, TSP PRC CNC Ported Heads milled .030, Cometic .040 Head Gaskets, GPI SS3 VVT Camshaft, GM Racing Lifters, CHE Trunnions, Melling 10355HV Oil Pump, Cold Air Inductions CAI, Fast LSXR Intake Manifold, Nick Williams 103 TB, TSP Longtubes, ZL1 Fuel Pump, Mishimoto Radiator and Oil Cooler, 3600 Circle D Converter, Tru Cool 40k Tranny Cooler, Fluid Dynamics Balancer, EBC 3GD Rotors with EBC Bluestuff NDX Pads, Bilstein B6 Shocks / Struts with Eibach ZL1 Drop Springs
Build Thread https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609817 |
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#9 | |
![]() Drives: 2010 Chevy Camaro 2SS coupe (MT) Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Sacramento, CA - USA
Posts: 367
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Try installing an oil pump pickup without a good o-ring, or drive an engine with a badly failing one… In the case that you do manage to drive on an engine with a partially degraded oil pump pickup o-ring seal, you’d maybe get away with it for a bit if you’re lucky, but certainly not forever. It most certainly affects oil pressure. If it was an issue where the oil pressure gauge didn’t work at all, you could potentially replace the oil pressure sensor, as a means of process of elimination. But regardless, like others had mentioned, there’s other stuff you’d want to check and replace while you’re going through all of that engine stuff, regarding oil pressure anyways. |
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