Best Bang for Buck ZL1 Performance Mods?

[Blown355]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

For you guys that are getting aftermarket pulleys which change your AFR and boost and not having the vehicle tuned to allow for additional forced airflow is scary. I wouldnt recommend one without the other. Those motors are very expensive to replace.

I agree, one should always check their a/f ratio after any mods of this nature.
That is why I have a dyno "with wideband" scheduled for next week. I want to see what my a/f ratio looks like after the 8.6 pulley install.

[Tampa Tuning]

Originally Posted by Blown355

I agree, one should always check their a/f ratio after any mods of this nature.
That is why I have a dyno "with wideband" scheduled for next week. I want to see what my a/f ratio looks like after the 8.6 pulley install.

Smart man!

Just because it "just bolts on" doesnt mean you can forget about it. If it was something like a ported throttle body or a new air intake, then I can say, you can get away with it, but when you start changing pulleys sizes and the advertising says no tune required could get ugly down the road.

[Blown355]

Originally Posted by Tampa Tuning

Smart man!

Just because it "just bolts on" doesnt mean you can forget about it. If it was something like a ported throttle body or a new air intake, then I can say, you can get away with it, but when you start changing pulleys sizes and the advertising says no tune required could get ugly down the road.

Quick question. At what air fuel ratio should I tell the dyno operator to abort the run?
i.e. If I go leaner than 11.5:1, 12.0:1, 12.5:1?

Thanks in advance.

[Stephen12ZL1]

my guess is 570-580rwhp

[The_Raging_Bull]

Originally Posted by Deke736

Not sure how much gas cost around you, but for 93 around me I can fill up for around $65 IF I am empty. To get 97 octane you could buy a quart of Torco from Jannetty Racing for $21, which would boost one full tank for $86. If you bought the Torco in bulk it gets cheaper. I am not claiming that to be inexpensive, but it comes nowhere close to your price. Not sure where you are coming up with $175 for a tank?

I'm with you, I just filled up w/93 octane (ethanol contained 10%) at 3.34/gallon in TN, 93 octane no corn is about 0.20 higher.

[1st Gen Forever]

Originally Posted by BeardWS6

This is my list, what do yo think!
LPE CAI
9.1 lower pulley
2.5 blower pulley
160 degree therm
solid isolator
kooks headers
50mm idler pulley
dyno tuned
plugs/wires

My car is a auto, what kind of numbers would you think I could get with this set-up?

A few thoughts on your list from learning on my build...

1) Don't leave the heat exchanger stock, with more boost you have more heat and you need to take care of that.

2) The upper pulley is pressed on so you have to remove the front snout from the blower. You may as well have that snout ported before putting it back on and go with a larger throttle body.

3) Alternatively to #2 above, don't bother with a smaller upper pulley if the cost of porting and larger TB pushes you out of your budget. 9.1/2.55 can be a little aggressive on boost anyway without a cam and head work let the air flow easier.

4) Gains from the headers might be minimal without cam and head work as well and leaving exhaust stock can save your budget a grand. Leave the headers for a later upgrade when you do a cam, head work and overdrive your supercharger more with different pulleys.

Good luck with your build and share the results!

[SlugWound]

Originally Posted by BeardWS6

Come on guys, no comments?

Catch can..

[Tampa Tuning]

I like 11.5 for forced induction vehicles

Originally Posted by Blown355

Quick question. At what air fuel ratio should I tell the dyno operator to abort the run?
i.e. If I go leaner than 11.5:1, 12.0:1, 12.5:1?

Thanks in advance.