Can't decide...

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by Burt

I'd do the FE4 rear control arms and 1LE rear sway bar, and leave the front bar stock. Even with a square tire set up, these cars like more rear bar than front. I autocross my car regularly, and the stock front sway/1LE rear sway have worked well for me. The 23mm/28mm split will ride and put down power a little better than a 27mm/32mm setup as well.

I'm considering getting the sways more and more. I am currently running a staggered setup, 275front and 315rear. I am wondering if just putting in the rear sway and some bushing replacement would be the best choice?

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by paul84043

Depends on your budget. The Catch can is a real eye opener.. I am always shocked by how much oil I pour out over a 5000 to 7000 mile period. IMHO, it's the best $150 you can spend on your car. I did an Elite Engineering CC, it looks great and has worked beautifully.
VMAX ported throttle body really woke up the bottom end and improved throttle response, but it really shines when in conjunction with a good CAI, and modded exhaust.
I did all four, CAI, TB, Catch Can and 3" CatBack Flowmaster exhaust. JDP Motorsports in Sandy, Ut made me a killer deal and I have been extremely happy with the mods.
Been getting the bug lately to finish the job and put headers on.
After that though, WILL be a suspension kit.

I an getting a catch can regardless. The throttle body is going to be expensive for me, as I like to keep all my stock parts. So unless I score a cheap throttle body from a junkyard to send in, it will cost me 350bucks!

[jdrop01]

First mod I did was upgrade my sway bars. Not expensive and the fun factor went way up. My car handles like a dream now. I currently am running the ZL1 Sways which the 1LE and Zl1 share the same rear. Love the setup and handling. I will down the road upgrade the rear to the 32mm.

[Burt]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

I'm considering getting the sways more and more. I am currently running a staggered setup, 275front and 315rear. I am wondering if just putting in the rear sway and some bushing replacement would be the best choice?

Since you're running a 40mm split front to rear versus the stock 30mm, you're set up for even more push than stock, so yes, staggered bars would definitely help you out. Bushings will help give your suspension more consistent responses and get rid of wheel hop. I'm thinking about doing a few rear end bushings over the winter.

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by Burt

Since you're running a 40mm split front to rear versus the stock 30mm, you're set up for even more push than stock, so yes, staggered bars would definitely help you out. Bushings will help give your suspension more consistent responses and get rid of wheel hop. I'm thinking about doing a few rear end bushings over the winter.

I think I may just get the 1LE bars, convert to FE4, and get a poly bushing kit for the entire car. I don't need crazy adjustable as I am not tracking and won't be able to dial in a hard or soft setting.

[Spec]

Suspension. Definitely.

[christianchevell]

You talk as if the factory is the end all, trust me you will wish you had better. And you talk of bushings... Well the trailing arms and toes will remove the wheel hop mostly with their bushings, and if you want to pay someone to drop the entire rear cradle to install bushing don't you think that will be expensive and should be done with maybe a rear end gear swap etc? I have the upper control arm delrin bushings from BMR, the toes and trailing arms, and a diff cover from LPW to keep the aluminum rear end tight and it has the differential bushings installed in it. There is a reason people buy aftermarket. I understand wanting to go fe4 as I have it, yet its not all that as where are my FE4 parts? lying on a concrete floor..... So go ahead and mod, just remember down the road you will kick yourself for buying one thing then wanting another that's the curse of mods..... SO why not start out with the best, get yourself say a eaton true trac and gears before you decide to tear the rear out by dropping the cradle.

You see your idea of a built rear and someone elses will be entirely different. And you think aluminum one piece drive shaft, a nice choice but not needed until you far exceed your mods in your sig. I have more mods than what are in my sig...... ANd while upgrades are good, I wish for ZL1 rear someday maybe but do go with what I can afford, and for now dropping all the cars bushings to go poly only makes sense if I am doing all the suspension upgrades at once except for what I have put down.

You really want to think about cornering think about the upper a arms delrin bushing. You want to buy a non adjustable sway then wish you had the other? I know money is always the thought. Look into BMR and see their deflection video of the rear end cornering and its deflection. Good luck If you make all the bushings so tough the rear now becomes a rock the shock will transfer somewhere and your rear end had better be tight and with stock toes and trailing arms your a wheel hopping nightmare.... even with the FE4 sitting on my floor........

[Black_SS10]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

You talk as if the factory is the end all, trust me you will wish you had better. And you talk of bushings... Well the trailing arms and toes will remove the wheel hop mostly with their bushings, and if you want to pay someone to drop the entire rear cradle to install bushing don't you think that will be expensive and should be done with maybe a rear end gear swap etc? I have the upper control arm delrin bushings from BMR, the toes and trailing arms, and a diff cover from LPW to keep the aluminum rear end tight and it has the differential bushings installed in it. There is a reason people buy aftermarket. I understand wanting to go fe4 as I have it, yet its not all that as where are my FE4 parts? lying on a concrete floor..... So go ahead and mod, just remember down the road you will kick yourself for buying one thing then wanting another that's the curse of mods..... SO why not start out with the best, get yourself say a eaton true trac and gears before you decide to tear the rear out by dropping the cradle.

You see your idea of a built rear and someone elses will be entirely different. And you think aluminum one piece drive shaft, a nice choice but not needed until you far exceed your mods in your sig. I have more mods than what are in my sig...... ANd while upgrades are good, I wish for ZL1 rear someday maybe but do go with what I can afford, and for now dropping all the cars bushings to go poly only makes sense if I am doing all the suspension upgrades at once except for what I have put down.

You really want to think about cornering think about the upper a arms delrin bushing. You want to buy a non adjustable sway then wish you had the other? I know money is always the thought. Look into BMR and see their deflection video of the rear end cornering and its deflection. Good luck If you make all the bushings so tough the rear now becomes a rock the shock will transfer somewhere and your rear end had better be tight and with stock toes and trailing arms your a wheel hopping nightmare.... even with the FE4 sitting on my floor........

Thank you for your reply. Now as for factory being the end all, if I believed that I wouldn't have any aftermarket mods on my car. As for the bushings, I would install them myself. I would go with poly bushings except for the cradle I would go solid. Just like others, I want a balance of better handling without a large increase in NVH. As for starting with the best, some people cannot afford the "best" and must live within their means and settle for "better". While I wish I could buy anything and everything for my ride I cannot. Also if I was that well off I would have a Zl1 or something in that realm to play with. My goal isn't to make my Camaro a "race" car but to improve what it is capable of for what I use it for.
As for your gear statement, yes I am already planning on installing the 3.91 gears.
I am looking at adjustable sway bars, but regardless I will have to replace my rear lower control arms and drill out the front tabs. For the cost it is 1/3 of the price for 1le sways and control arms vs aftermarket arms and sways. This isn't including install because I would do it myself. I don't race my car around a track and highly doubt I will need adjustable sways.

[Burt]

As far as the rear sway bars are concerned, the design of most adjustable rear bars isn't optimal. In a single, fixed setup, the endlink is acted on directly with tension or compression. In an adjustable setup, the endlink gets rotated over, causing the sway bar to apply more of a bending moment. Just something to think about

[christianchevell]

Maybe you could even find something in the members for sale section if you want just stock parts...... People are always selling stuff on here, I know I have ...lol

[JCunningham]

suspension is the best mod you can make to these cars