More if a 4th gen question but still LS

[2010_camaro]

OK so after doing a rebuild on a LS1 in a TA. What's the best way if breaking the motor in. I've always been told to let the motor warm up check for any leaks then hold the RPM at around 3500-4000 for 15min give or take to seat the new rings in. Then change the oil. Then drive it easy for the next 500 miles then change the oil again.

[two_wheel_mayhem]

There's a few different methods, which always turns into a great debate around here.

Neither method is what you have always been told.

[StrokerAce]

Mayhem is right, and you will be hard pressed to get a general consensus.
Over the years I've always broke mine in the exact same way I intended on driving them (hard) and have never had even the slightest issue.

[two_wheel_mayhem]

Fresh engine startup is something few of us had the privilege of performing on our cars. Since they were delivered to us via dealer.

You don't want to spend much time jacking around idling, do some heat cycles with 30 minutes cool down between and try to have a load on the engine as soon as possible. That means either driving or on the dyno.

[i2disturbedSS]

Apex had a thread about engine break in -

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=403619

[Russell James]

One answer will not fit all.

What specs was it built to? Uber tight factory LS specs? Follow a new car manual... easy break in. Heat cycle it at few times at varying RPM. Some easy driving.

Factory LS motors are bit with basically an interference fit piston, super tight tin bearings... that stuff does not lend well to a hard break in when green fresh.

Now, if you built it to performance specs... 2 to 3 thou bearing clearances, tri-metal bearings, some decent clearance on forged pistons, decent ring gaps... A performance build like that can be put to some moderate loads quicker.

If anyone other than the engine builder is telling you how to break in that motor, without asking build details... I'd question that advice. A good builder will know exactly what the build clearances are, parts used, oil to use...know how to use a pre-oiler...

Make sure you have a pressure tank pre-oiler. There is no way to prelude an LS motor without one. Old school Chevys you can drill spin the pump, not on an LS motor.

[davidscamaro]

Originally Posted by Russell James

One answer will not fit all.

What specs was it built to? Uber tight factory LS specs? Follow a new car manual... easy break in. Heat cycle it at few times at varying RPM. Some easy driving.

Factory LS motors are bit with basically an interference fit piston, super tight tin bearings... that stuff does not lend well to a hard break in when green fresh.

Now, if you built it to performance specs... 2 to 3 thou bearing clearances, tri-metal bearings, some decent clearance on forged pistons, decent ring gaps... A performance build like that can be put to some moderate loads quicker.

If anyone other than the engine builder is telling you how to break in that motor, without asking build details... I'd question that advice. A good builder will know exactly what the build clearances are, parts used, oil to use...know how to use a pre-oiler...

Make sure you have a pressure tank pre-oiler. There is no way to prelude an LS motor without one. Old school Chevys you can drill spin the pump, not on an LS motor.

unhook the harness at the coil packs and the fuel pump relay and crank it over tell you get oil to the topend

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by davidscamaro

unhook the harness at the coil packs and the fuel pump relay and crank it over tell you get oil to the topend

Opinions will vary. I'd rather pressure lube every bit of a fresh engine before cranking.

The vast majority of engine wear occurs on start up. And the first start up being the biggest offender. Pre lubing it is just one more insurance step, and tells you if you have any oil leaks.

Seen too many pro shops do it to think its not a good thing. I bought a $150 preluder pressure tank from Summit years ago, probably one of the most loaned out tools I have. And it always comes back with a case of beer.

When I prelube an LS motor. It fires instantly and is purring quietly. Start an LS that hasn't been prelude... you'll find out what 16 hammering lifters sound like. It'll quiet down in 10 - 30 seconds or so. But I'd rather not put a new motor through that racket.

[JLSuperfly]

Get your popcorns ready.

[davidscamaro]

Originally Posted by JLSuperfly

Get your popcorns ready.

Nah Russell is right, the more you can do to protect your motor the better. My way works but definitely can be approved on

[69L48Z27]

Originally Posted by 2010_camaro

OK so after doing a rebuild on a LS1 in a TA. What's the best way if breaking the motor in. I've always been told to let the motor warm up check for any leaks then hold the RPM at around 3500-4000 for 15min give or take to seat the new rings in. Then change the oil. Then drive it easy for the next 500 miles then change the oil again.

The 3500 RPM for 15minutes is for flat tapet cam, not rings. LS engines are roller cams, no special break-in. Go find a GM LS crate engine manual online somewhere and follow that.

Steps I would follow:
- pre-lube as suggested above.
- start it, check for leaks.
- drive it, running in up the RPM range gradually for the first 30 miles. rings should be good by then.
- drop the oil, check for metal.
- personally I would put another couple hundred miles on it before I really hammer on it.
- drop oil and filter at 1000 miles or end of driving season.