About to sell my car guys. Need some help. - Page 3 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

TOO.BAD · 10-18-2016, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jrhagen

You might want to work on the RT as well. Should be 0.050 or better. Try starting your launch when the second yellow goes out and experiment from there.

I have hit two 0.0001 RTs this year. All luck.

OK Thanks!

JS440 · 10-20-2016, 01:28 PM

I personally own a 2014 zl1 with an m6 and a 2015 6.2 ss with an a6.

I go to track days at least twice a month.

Track prep is very inconsistent.

Questionable track prep makes the difficulty of launching a manual transmission zl1 with an M6 increase by a large amount.
After you launch.. you still have to make sure your shifts are quick and accurate.

I preffer to bring My 2015 ss with the A6 to the track. The ZL1 is faster. But the stress of putting together a clean pass with a manual transmission takes the fun out of it for me.

The A6 SS currently runs consistent 12.7's @ 110 with a few bolt ons and street tires.

My next ZL1 will be an auto.

Jlodini36 · 11-09-2016, 01:37 AM

i wouldn't sell that car and get a vette cause you will find yourself just as displeased i have a 2015 zl1 and its right about 700rwhp the trick is lowering the car down and by the doing that your changing the center of gravity or better yet known as roll center or weight transfer.. i always use this funny analogy when you get up and walk you put your right foot down than you left and so and what iam saying is you want to evenly distribute the weight therefore you will have more tire to the ground. another thing to point out is your engine rotates clockwise unless its a boat engine lol so when you apply the gas pedal the car naturally wants to load the right rear and lift the left front the car isn't evenly transferring the weight from the front wheels to the rear wheels.. thats called rake my solution to this is the BMR rear adjustable torsion bar and with this you can basically change the spring weight or unsprung rate from the left rear to the right rear. ( reverse split ) another huge game changer is a solid driveshaft the two piece driveshaft allows the weight transfer to happen much quicker than necessary for a drag car... last but not rear adjustable QA1 shocks and subframe connectors and i promise that car will feel like a complete different car.... if you still have an issue my cell is 845-490-1626 theres much more that can be done perhaps pull some gear out of it

teddywetts · 11-10-2016, 05:37 PM

Hold traction control for 7-10 seconds and shut everything completely off. No bogging. End of story. Also I can't believe you lost to a 5.0. Last 5.0 I raced I beat by 2 SuperWalmarts. In the 1/8. Yeah really.

10-20-2016, 01:28 PM	#30
JS440 Drives: Black 2014 ZL1 m6 coupe Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Minnesota Posts: 10	I personally own a 2014 zl1 with an m6 and a 2015 6.2 ss with an a6. I go to track days at least twice a month. Track prep is very inconsistent. Questionable track prep makes the difficulty of launching a manual transmission zl1 with an M6 increase by a large amount. After you launch.. you still have to make sure your shifts are quick and accurate. I preffer to bring My 2015 ss with the A6 to the track. The ZL1 is faster. But the stress of putting together a clean pass with a manual transmission takes the fun out of it for me. The A6 SS currently runs consistent 12.7's @ 110 with a few bolt ons and street tires. My next ZL1 will be an auto. Last edited by JS440; 10-20-2016 at 04:11 PM.

11-09-2016, 01:37 AM	#31
Jlodini36 Jlodini36 Drives: White 2015 Chevy Camaro zl1 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: New York Posts: 9	i wouldn't sell that car and get a vette cause you will find yourself just as displeased i have a 2015 zl1 and its right about 700rwhp the trick is lowering the car down and by the doing that your changing the center of gravity or better yet known as roll center or weight transfer.. i always use this funny analogy when you get up and walk you put your right foot down than you left and so and what iam saying is you want to evenly distribute the weight therefore you will have more tire to the ground. another thing to point out is your engine rotates clockwise unless its a boat engine lol so when you apply the gas pedal the car naturally wants to load the right rear and lift the left front the car isn't evenly transferring the weight from the front wheels to the rear wheels.. thats called rake my solution to this is the BMR rear adjustable torsion bar and with this you can basically change the spring weight or unsprung rate from the left rear to the right rear. ( reverse split ) another huge game changer is a solid driveshaft the two piece driveshaft allows the weight transfer to happen much quicker than necessary for a drag car... last but not rear adjustable QA1 shocks and subframe connectors and i promise that car will feel like a complete different car.... if you still have an issue my cell is 845-490-1626 theres much more that can be done perhaps pull some gear out of it

11-10-2016, 05:37 PM	#32
teddywetts Drives: 2012 ZL1 Camaro, 2015 Silverado 6.2 Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Nebraska Posts: 105 View My Garage	Hold traction control for 7-10 seconds and shut everything completely off. No bogging. End of story. Also I can't believe you lost to a 5.0. Last 5.0 I raced I beat by 2 SuperWalmarts. In the 1/8. Yeah really.