10-07-2016, 02:24 PM | #29 | |
Drives: 2020 Orange Crush 1SS/1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 150
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Making it level in this car is super easy, as all you have to do is mount the projector straight in the housing. On reflector retrofit is a little more challenging, but all you got to do is mount the lamp on a fixture, turn it on with a halogen bulb in it and mark the light output at the wall. Then hollow out the lamp, install the projector with HID on, turn it on and match the light output on the wall. You can use window weld, which sets pretty quick, or 5 MIN JB weld for those.
On this car, there may be some trimming to do on that plastic center piece, but I think it will be pretty straight forward. Quote:
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/mo...onversion.html But for that price, I would rather get their XB55 ballasts which at $40 more. |
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11-07-2016, 11:06 PM | #30 | |
Donkey Dick Cam Camaro
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS LS3 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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11-18-2016, 08:50 AM | #31 |
Drives: 2020 Orange Crush 1SS/1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 150
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Well, car got hit Tuesday, sitting at a body shop waiting for USAA to go appraise the damage... I may go over there and ask the guys to pull the headlights out while they work on it so I can do the retrofit... going to call TRS to see if they can send me some projectors (pay for them and return the ones that I don't use without been charged restocking fees) to try out. I am inclined to use the 4TL-R, just because I love the TLs output. But I also want to use the EvoX-R that I have as they are based on Hellas E46 design and the lows are good, but the high beams are a beast.
So, hopefully, I will update soon. Unless the body shop don't cooperate, LOL |
12-28-2016, 11:13 AM | #32 |
Drives: 2020 Orange Crush 1SS/1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 150
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Quick update. Retrofit is done... couldn't be happier with the results other than I ended up burning a corner on the first headlight. This lights are huge and it sit to high on my oven, also, I used 250 (which I always use for regular butyl rubber sealer, and the stupid lights have perma-seal. I guess I should had watched the Phasteak video first.
It is almost a plug-n-play, you have to "mill" 1/4" deep between the OEM projector mounting points to clear the 4TL-R lens holder, elongate the lower mounting holes and round up the top edges. But other than that the OEM bracket have a straight line for the "horizon" marker on the cut off shield which means that at least you will be straight on the light output. The main problem will be aligning the step, as the OEM are not centered... but GM placed an adjuster on one of the upper bracket mounts. I also upgraded the LED driver to a Velleman 350-700mA driver and the LED to a 3W 700mA unit. It is brighter, but not as bright as I want it, so I may end up going with some 5mm high flux LEDs and make my own halo under the OEM one. After disassembly I noticed why the output was so dim... both bowls were burnt. I will try to take some pics today to post, but I didn't took any of the projector assembly. Also, opening this lights IMO is a pain in the butt compared to butyl... just less messy. |
12-28-2016, 09:07 PM | #33 |
Drives: 2020 Orange Crush 1SS/1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 150
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That is why the headlights on my car sucked balls... my guess is that the previous owner had a 55W D2S conversion and swapped it out when he sold the car, or that the GM projector (which is made in CHINA) is a piece of garbage to begin with. Also, the step in the projector lens with the frosted (freshnel) lens don't help a bit with light output. |
12-22-2017, 11:24 AM | #34 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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Woah that's crazy! Do you have any pics of the process during the retrofit? I'd love to see how you mounted the projectors. I'm looking to use Morimoto D2S projectors
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
02-19-2018, 10:48 PM | #35 |
Drives: 2012 2LT/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northeast
Posts: 1,443
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I think the frosted appearance is meant to smooth the light pattern. These TYC replacements do throw some nice light but the beam is spotty in places near the front of the car.
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02-20-2018, 04:21 PM | #36 | |
Drives: 2020 Orange Crush 1SS/1LE Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Boerne
Posts: 150
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Quote:
Yes, that is the reason, and on cheap/garbage projectors you get the spotty areas, as most (IDK about the TYC) are meant to be used with halogen bulbs, not HID. A good projector with a clear lens will have a smooth beam with the hot spot in the center as it should be. |
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02-22-2018, 05:43 PM | #37 |
Evil Genius of Chevrolet
Drives: 2017 Z06, 2019 XTS, 2013 SS Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: New York
Posts: 3,260
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I bought the lights in my signature pic for $250. I put in my 35w hid kit and the difference is amazing. Our original headlights are junk.
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02-24-2018, 08:16 AM | #38 |
Drives: 2012 2LT/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northeast
Posts: 1,443
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03-09-2018, 01:58 PM | #39 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
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instead of creating a new thread, does anyone know if the D2S 4.0's will fit 10-13 halogen housings? I just bought a set of housings to retrofit and want to use the 4.0's but worried about size/space.
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
03-31-2018, 11:18 AM | #40 |
Drives: 2012 2LT/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northeast
Posts: 1,443
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Curious why you say that the outer plastic lens will be affected if the projector is replaced. Do you mean if the new projector is >35watts? Want to be sure I'm not bumm'n if I do this...
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03-31-2018, 11:34 AM | #41 |
Drives: 2012 2LT/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Northeast
Posts: 1,443
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Yep, mine were almost as bad and I've had the car since new - never replaced the bulbs so this happens with all of them. Nice :(
So in hindsight, did you have to remove the plastic front using the oven procedure, or could this be done by pulling everything out from bulb replacement cover and then vice versa? Does the product you got from TRS come apart easily, like the factory projector (separate bowl from hi beam actuator assembly, etc.)? I was able to pull everything out of the factory housing by disassembling (with difficulty) while still inside the housing and then pulling out the pieces. If the replacement projector is similar sized and comes apart, you may not have to bake in the oven. Just wondering whether I want to commit to this or, maybe, buy a new car Quote:
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