DIY: LS3 Camshaft Install (a lot of pictures, may take a moment to load)

[robertway]

Originally Posted by MValdez17

Hey thank you for the write up, close to finishing up installing the Cam in my Camaro.
Comp Cam 227/239-629/.623!

I was wondering what the Torque Specs were for the Alternator?

I did run into a problem though leading me to buy a new AC Compressor

Sorry, been away from the forum for a while, I don't recall the specs for the alternator and would have to go back and track it down. My guess is by now you don't need the answer

Originally Posted by ITGuy11

I just started my cam install last night using this awesome guide. Thanks again robertway

My pleasure, glad to see folks are getting good use of the write-up...

[robertway]

Originally Posted by 1977and2010

I finished mine up a couple weeks ago. Couldn't have done it without the DIY. Thanks Robertway.

[wylde1]

Wow, fantastic writeup. I'll be printing this out to have next to me when I do my blower cam this winter.

It'll be my first foray into the LS engines and I'm very excited. Built many Gen I smallblocks in the past though.

FYI if you ever do another valve spring swap or for other folks. When installing the new locks, a tiny dab of grease on the inside of the new lock (doesn't really matter what kind, just make sure it's clean haha) will hold it in place while you release the tension on the spring compressor. Then you don't have to hold it there and you can have your hand out of the way. Just give the valve a tap with a hammer afterwards to make sure the lock is seated and you're golden.

[JWoj3540]

extremely thorough and complete job. excellent work...i will be referencing this one day

[Li0nel1234]

Holy smokes this is an awesome DIY...

It took me a day just to read it. I can't imagine going through and doing it. I might do this one day... I am in the middle of a brake caliper swap and I don't think my DIY fu is up for this yet.

Thanks for the awesome write up...it gives me confidence.

[robertway]

Originally Posted by Li0nel1234

Holy smokes this is an awesome DIY...

It took me a day just to read it. I can't imagine going through and doing it. I might do this one day... I am in the middle of a brake caliper swap and I don't think my DIY fu is up for this yet.

Thanks for the awesome write up...it gives me confidence.

Thanks for the compliments. The biggest mods I had EVER done before doing this were a CAI, headers, drop springs, and a short-throw shifter. I figured the next logical step was to tear down the engine with the help of a couple of books . One step at a time is all it takes and then torquing it all back together one bolt at a time. I definitely had a lesson in patience on this one. I think I checked the torque on every bolt 3-4 times and believe me, the first WOT pull on the dyno when it was getting tuned and approaching 7000rpm I was like .

But then when the tuning was done and I got in the car to drive home I was like , it was definitely worth it.

[SSHSSISS]

I do have questions on step 70?
Sorry if this has already been covered.

Why did you need a new crank bolt;Is it just for insurance since the old bolt may have become damaged upon removal?

When pressing on the new balancer I can understand the longer M16 bolt to get the balencer halfway on and then using the old crank bolt to finish it off torquing it to 240ft/lbs.

But then I interpretted the next step is that you removed the same bolt you torqued down to 240 ft/lbs and then put in a new M16 bolt and torqued it to only 37 ft/lbs. and then another 140 degrees.

Is the 240ft/lbs done just to press the balencer in and since the old bolt has now seen better days it needs to be replaced and torqued to only 37 ft/lbs +140 degrees?

[wylde1]

Originally Posted by SSHSSISS

I do have questions on step 70?
Sorry if this has already been covered.

Why did you need a new crank bolt;Is it just for insurance since the old bolt may have become damaged upon removal?

When pressing on the new balancer I can understand the longer M16 bolt to get the balencer halfway on and then using the old crank bolt to finish it off torquing it to 240ft/lbs.

But then I interpretted the next step is that you removed the same bolt you torqued down to 240 ft/lbs and then put in a new M16 bolt and torqued it to only 37 ft/lbs. and then another 140 degrees.

Is the 240ft/lbs done just to press the balencer in and since the old bolt has now seen better days it needs to be replaced and torqued to only 37 ft/lbs +140 degrees?

The statement in bold is correct. The 240ft/lbs seats the balancer. The trick here is that GM used a torqued-to-yield design to get the preload on the bolt consistent. Similar to other bolts in the engine like heads, mains, con-rods I think, once it has been torqued to spec you can not re-use it. So the bolt actually physically stretches, and the properties change so the preload stresses will be different if you try to use it again. It's just convenient to use the old crank bolt, any bolt of the proper size will do for the 240 pass.

So yes, seat the balancer with 240 ft/lbs, remove that bolt, and seat a new one at 37 ft/lbs + 140 degrees

[SSHSSISS]

Thank you...

I am just now going over the process of performing a cam swap so I am at the beginning of nailing down the right cam and everything that is involved.

I have seen Chuck's video www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtNYBbdlJtA and have looked at the Texas-Speed http://www.texas-speed.com/c-233-cam...Fcya7QodO1RFLg and FastLaneTurbo http://www.fastlaneturbo.com/fastlan...rmancecam.aspx sites.

I want something fairly radical but somewhat streetable (not a daily driver).

[robertway]

What he said

Thanks for jumping in wylde1...

[BowlingSS]

Always use a new crank bolt. I bought a longer one for getting the pulley off.

Great write up. Here is a pdf copy.

http://www.bowlingss.com/DownLoads/L...%20Install.pdf

Bill

[chiel]

Great

In picture 9 u see 2 clips from the transmission cooling lines. U texted "dont loose them"
In my ss-truck after removing the lines i put the clips directly back. when it comes to reassembling u can click the lines in the radiator without removing the clips.

[SSHSSISS]

Send me your thoughts on this setup...
Not a daily driver car.

Kooks 1 3/4" LTs - 6510-OEMC
CompCam 235/244 on a 112 LSA w/ .621/.612 lift - 3Bolt
PAC Racing .650 lift single beehive valve springs
PRC 7.400 chromemoly pushrods
SLP Harmonic Balancer
NGK TR-55 plugs
SLP Double Roller Timing Chain
SLP 160 Degree Thermostat


Thanks

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Originally Posted by SSHSSISS

Send me your thoughts on this setup...
Not a daily driver car.

Kooks 1 3/4" LTs - 6510-OEMC
CompCam 235/244 on a 112 LSA w/ .621/.612 lift - 3Bolt
PAC Racing .650 lift single beehive valve springs
PRC 7.400 chromemoly pushrods
SLP Harmonic Balancer
NGK TR-55 plugs
SLP Double Roller Timing Chain
SLP 160 Degree Thermostat


Thanks

I likey personally.....sounds like fun.
Ivan