engine won´t start when hot - problem solved - Page 10 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

zar5h7 · 03-27-2023, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe.G

So I used a 4 gauge 19" cable from Autozone from Body Bolt to the Tranny where the fluid line bolts to the tranny, I used the bolt that holds the line to the tranny. I only started it up twice as I was checking the car after installing the headers. The car is not going out until after winter, So I don't know how heat soak will go but it did seem to start stronger cold. I have a 6 Ga for the trunk Battery but I'll hold off and see how this one does.

Hey Joe G. - I know this is an old post but was under my car attempting same thing yesterday. I have LT headers. So that Gen5DIY site is where I got this idea, but their video does not make sense.

https://www.gen5diy.com/products/10-...f055aa2f&_ss=r

I don't see how they routed a 20inch zero gauge cable from that bell housing bolt to the frame. Looks to me they bolted it passenger side engine cylinder block, then used another cable from the block to that frame bolt.

Regardless, you stated you did it from the tranny line bolt (bit further back) to the frame instead. I was thinking the same thing, but just wanted to see how it's held up? My main concern is how close the wire is to the mid-pipe/tail end of the header. I may need to downsize to a 4 gauge wire instead to get some better flexibility. Used zero for trunk and driver side engine ground, but not nearly as much to bend there.

Really if anyone else has some info on this it would be appreciated.

Joe.G · 03-27-2023, 06:59 PM

I had zero issues and it fit fine, I think zero gauge is a bit overkill.

zar5h7 · 04-10-2023, 10:17 AM

Yep, knocked it down (up, whatever) to a 4 gauge and used about a 24inch wire 5/8 one end the other 3/8 and was able to go from the tranny bell housing to that bolt in the frame. That 0 gauge was the issue, couldn't work with at all. The 4 gauge I was able to bend around a harness and sort of tuck in between the heat shielding (whatever that flimsy metal is next to the frame) so it would keep off the headers.

For engine bay used 20inch 4 gauge on driver side block to frame.

For battery used 18 inch 0 gauge from negative post to frame.

Engine starting much, much better and quicker now. We'll have to see how it does when it gets hot, but right no satisfied with the results.

Joe.G · 04-10-2023, 11:57 AM

0 Gauge is probably overkill but hopefully you are good to go.

Barnald · 05-26-2025, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bojangles837

bumping this thread. does anyone have a good engine mount location for where i can attach a new ground without getting under the car? ty

+1. I’m having the same issue. Cold, a bit sluggish, hot, I cross my fingers it’ll start.

Phemus · 07-27-2025, 08:07 PM

Adding the Ground Wire is the DEFINITE FIX. I just did this on my 2014 1LE on Friday. Took it for a long drive in stop and go traffic here in Africa-Hot Pensacola. Got home. Shut car off and waited about 30 seconds. Car cranks up like new. I have done it twice since Friday. The hard cranking, with “Service Stabiltrak” message, No Tach, no anti-skid…..has been FIXED.
Starter & battery have NOTHING to do with this issue.

Go buy 12” length of 4 gauge wire/cable and 2 terminals at Advance Auto.
Look at block and frame to see how to click the terminals. Buy or borrow a crimper. I bought a crimper set at Harbor Freight.

Boom…it was like magic. Weird ass electrons. ��

PS…..Front left side of block….and frame a few inches aft of that. 10” is long enough.

“QUOTE=OnkelMatze;9854249]I had these starting issues when engine was hot, like at a stop after a while of driving
cold starts worked fine....
- bought a new battery, same
- bought a new starter, same
- wrapped starter with heat shield, same

gauged the volt value at the starter when engine was hot,
there were 2 volt less than directly from the battery in the trunk

solution:
installed an additional ground wire from the engine block
to the chassis, now hot starts work same as cold starts

attached a picture of the new cable

[/QUOTE]

chevy pilot · 07-27-2025, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phemus

installed an additional ground wire from the engine block
to the chassis, now hot starts work same as cold starts

Picture ?

03-27-2023, 06:59 PM	#128
Joe.G Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 6SP Ashen Grey Join Date: Aug 2021 Location: NY Posts: 1,763	I had zero issues and it fit fine, I think zero gauge is a bit overkill. __________________ GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights AeroForce Dual gauge/Autometer pillar mount.

04-10-2023, 11:57 AM	#130
Joe.G Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 6SP Ashen Grey Join Date: Aug 2021 Location: NY Posts: 1,763	0 Gauge is probably overkill but hopefully you are good to go. __________________ GM 3.91/TrueTrac OEM ZL1 Rims, 6 Piston Brakes & Side Skirts.ACST4 Splitter/Deflectors NPP M2W,GM Short Throw,GPI Ported Rod Mod,BO White PTB,CAI/JRE Scoop, GC Aluminum DS,Stainless Works Ceramic LTH/HiFlo Cats, Hotckis 1" Springs & Chassis Max Brace BMR Adjustable Swaybars,Trailing Arms, Adjustable Toe Rod, LCA & Z28 UCA Bushings Hendrix Solid Cradle Bushings Pedders Radius Rod Inserts Strut tower brace, Moroso Catch Can,SCT X4 Dynosteve,Remote Clutch reservoir,Hero Smoked Tail and 3rd Brake Light, Diode Dynamic SL1 Fog Lights AeroForce Dual gauge/Autometer pillar mount.

04-10-2023, 10:17 AM	#129
zar5h7 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Independence, MO Posts: 4	Yep, knocked it down (up, whatever) to a 4 gauge and used about a 24inch wire 5/8 one end the other 3/8 and was able to go from the tranny bell housing to that bolt in the frame. That 0 gauge was the issue, couldn't work with at all. The 4 gauge I was able to bend around a harness and sort of tuck in between the heat shielding (whatever that flimsy metal is next to the frame) so it would keep off the headers. For engine bay used 20inch 4 gauge on driver side block to frame. For battery used 18 inch 0 gauge from negative post to frame. Engine starting much, much better and quicker now. We'll have to see how it does when it gets hot, but right no satisfied with the results.

07-27-2025, 08:07 PM	#132
Phemus Drives: 2014 Camaro 2SS, 1LE Join Date: May 2016 Location: Pensacola Posts: 14	Adding the Ground Wire is the DEFINITE FIX. I just did this on my 2014 1LE on Friday. Took it for a long drive in stop and go traffic here in Africa-Hot Pensacola. Got home. Shut car off and waited about 30 seconds. Car cranks up like new. I have done it twice since Friday. The hard cranking, with “Service Stabiltrak” message, No Tach, no anti-skid…..has been FIXED. Starter & battery have NOTHING to do with this issue. Go buy 12” length of 4 gauge wire/cable and 2 terminals at Advance Auto. Look at block and frame to see how to click the terminals. Buy or borrow a crimper. I bought a crimper set at Harbor Freight. Boom…it was like magic. Weird ass electrons. �� PS…..Front left side of block….and frame a few inches aft of that. 10” is long enough. “QUOTE=OnkelMatze;9854249]I had these starting issues when engine was hot, like at a stop after a while of driving cold starts worked fine.... - bought a new battery, same - bought a new starter, same - wrapped starter with heat shield, same gauged the volt value at the starter when engine was hot, there were 2 volt less than directly from the battery in the trunk solution: installed an additional ground wire from the engine block to the chassis, now hot starts work same as cold starts attached a picture of the new cable [/QUOTE]