09-10-2020, 04:19 PM | #141 |
Drives: 2010 SS and 2005 Acura TL Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: West Palm Beach Fl.
Posts: 30
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10-19-2020, 09:22 PM | #142 |
Drives: 2018 ZLE (M6/hyper blue) Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Lithia, FL
Posts: 762
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A bit of an older thread I stumbled across here, but there was a lot of talking in this to blame it on headers...the issue does exist without headers too. I've had 3 cars (a 2012 2SS, a 2015 Z/28, and a 2016 2SS) that all had the issue when completely stock. The Z/28 actually got a bit better after adding ceramic coated headers (the new owner said it still cranks slow occasionally but has never failed to start; when I had the car, hot starts weren't any different than cold starts). The Z/28 I have now has the same issue, but only has the headers wrapped. I plan to ground the block, and possibly pull the headers to have them coated.
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10-19-2020, 09:48 PM | #143 |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 828
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I bought a Powermaster XS starter, no more problems.
It had gotten to the point that I couldn't stop for gas without planning on sitting there for 30 minutes or going first thing in the morning. I added grounds and cleaned connections but it got progressively worse. Starter had about 70K miles and 6 years of life before I replaced it. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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10-20-2020, 04:13 AM | #144 | |
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See here https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4 https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...8#post10107568 |
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10-20-2020, 06:11 AM | #145 | |
Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 828
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Quote:
When you think about it, all of those fixes are temporary bandaids for a starter with too much draw. As the starter gets worse, those fixes are less effective. The car starts better now than when I bought it a few years ago. We'll see how long this lasts. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.
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10-20-2020, 07:35 AM | #146 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: somewhere in MD
Posts: 4,883
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Quote:
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2010 2SS/RS
Z/28 intake, NW, FAST 102, speed engineering LT's, some exhaust, ATI -10% pulley, GM flex fuel injectors, DSX flex fuel sensor, MGW shifter, HP Tuners, some suspension work, stickers and a little weight loss. 12.63 @113.53 |
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01-23-2021, 11:45 AM | #147 | |
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01-23-2021, 03:02 PM | #148 |
Drives: 2011 SS-RS Join Date: May 2011
Location: FLORIDA
Posts: 11,761
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I was having this issue as the starter got older, I replaced it and now good as new, starts up nice hot or cold.. I just think these starters are not strong enough to turn over a 10.5cr engine when warmed up, thanks GM, kinda like the "old school" days when you increased your cr, you needed a stronger starter to start the engine up.
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TSP STAGE 3 CAM,231/246 @112 LSA 614/641 LIFT, CIRCLE D 5C-4200-4500 CONVERTER,LOD INTAKE.CORSA EXHAUST. DSS 1 PC DS. PEGASUS SOLID CRADLE MOUNTS. 486RWHP/475RWTQ.LOTS MORE.
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11-18-2021, 06:22 PM | #149 | ||||
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Camaro Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Tellico Village TN
Posts: 16
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Hard Starting Issues - answer
Quote:
History: below lists out my car’s issues, see if they match up to your problems… • Car starts normally when cold. • After engine warms up, subsequent car re-starts are less and less vigorous as engine gets hotter. • Once engine is fully hot (and starter fully hot from close proximity to exhaust) very slow, hard start to the point of starter almost stalling. • Once the near-stalled starter fires up the engine, all dash ‘idiot’ warning lights come on, the tach needle drops to zero, “Service Stabilatrac” warning displays on dash information panel, car runs rough and evidences pre-ignition. Service/warning Codes for “Crankshaft Position Sensor” (and/or other computer sensors) as reported with diagnostic tool. Due to hard start issues, I installed a new Diehard Gold Battery in February 2021 which was replaced in October 2021 (at dealer’s recommendation) with an AC Delco battery. In September 2021, after crank sensor fault codes I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and position sensor connector and wiring harness, billed $450. Still same starting problems in October 2021. After reading more fault codes the dealer ordered a new Brake Stabilatrac Module and said cost would be $800 installed. I decided to hold off and research the 5th gen forum. I found this thread, read what you guys experienced and your fixes. I now believe (like many of you) the problem is lack of current flow from the battery to the starter. The culprit is insufficient grounding, and insufficient wire size to deliver the volume of current required to spin a heat-soaked starter. I cured the slow starter problem by … 1. adding a 20-inch length of 2/0 marine cable from a frame bolt to a bellhousing bolt 2. increasing the cable size to the stock battery negative cable by adding an additional 19-inch length 2/0 marine cable from the battery negative clamp down to the original factory negative cable bolt in in the trunk floor. 3. adding a 9” length of 1/0 ga. marine cable to bypass the under-hood auxiliary positive battery post. See post numbers 49 & 55 in this thread for a how to… https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=399658&page=4 Video from 3M on proper taping of the split bolt connector used to connect the jumper cable to the under-hood positive cable... An explanation of how to make professional HD power cables is here… https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/ I own the FTZ # 94284 Heavy Duty Crimp Tool named in the how-to article. It is the best for making up power cables. You can find them for about $80 used on eBay. Marine grade cable and power lugs are available at… https://baymarinesupply.com/ftz-tinn...-terminal.html Hope this helps. Last edited by lvlender; 11-19-2021 at 12:03 PM. |
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03-04-2022, 11:46 AM | #150 |
I'm kind of confused at this part. The car originally comes with 2 AWG wire running from the battery (+) to the aux post. You then bypass the post with a 1/0 so essentially you're going from 2 AWG to 1/0 then back down to 2AWG running to the starter, correct or no? How would it benefit if you're just bypassing the post to go back down to a 2 AWG wire?
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03-04-2022, 12:59 PM | #151 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,845
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You bypassing the post connection. You can't put a whole lot of torque on that bolt, so you are essentially eliminating the connectors. 2ga would probably work just as well. With that said, I would not do this on my car.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
03-04-2022, 02:41 PM | #152 |
Which is interesting because one day I was having a hard time starting up. I stuck a jumper to that post and it started right up, no problem, which told me something between that post and the battery was the issue. Not sure where though.
Last edited by frey.199; 03-04-2022 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Grammar |
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03-04-2022, 03:10 PM | #153 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,845
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The cable between the post and the battery goes straight to the battery positive. The battery ground in the trunk is known to corrode.
I do believe the starter wire is on top of the cable to the battery at that bolt so you could have been bypassing the connection between the two cables providing voltage directly to the starter wire through the bolt.
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2010 SS - Kind of an On3 kit, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
03-04-2022, 03:21 PM | #154 |
Drives: 2010 IOM 2ss/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: SoCal, I.E.
Posts: 1,545
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you likely would if the car wasnt starting and you were going through as many possible solutions as possible to get it to run.
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Turbonetics running 8lbs boost at 700rwhp tuned by Hi Rev, installed by K&M w/cat-muffler delete, ACS splitter, Fesler GFX, MPD1 spoiler, Custom painted Rally stripes, Cordon CR1 wheels 275/315s, Hotchkiss comp sways and end links, Barton shifter
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