![]() |
|
|
#141 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '14 1LS Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Mandeville
Posts: 2,166
|
Thanks! Interesting info!
__________________
Patiently waiting for my 2023 SS 1LE |
|
|
|
|
|
#142 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '14 1LE Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: NJ
Posts: 2,438
|
Quote:
I was planning to do the separate clutch reservoir, but I think you've convinced me to skip that one. Has anyone tried to add a second full-size stock reservoir instead? |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#143 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: One of the baddest handling Gen 5s Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Masachusetts
Posts: 4,177
|
X25 is right. I would recommend a larger reservoir upgrade instead of separate reservoirs with a small one for the clutch. I sold my kit and kept the stock stuff and even at 76000 hard driven and tracked miles no issue ever. I did my SS lines and Motul 600 early though. Also the stock reservoir cap is prone to leaks so change it. I got a replacement one from Advance Auto that works better than the stock one but looks and fits the same just tighter fit.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#144 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Torrance
Posts: 14,564
|
Quote:
The syringe turkey baster/pump/replace, etc., I have only done on the separate clutch reservoir, not the brake fluid reservoir...Yes, I have extracted and replaced fluid from the brake reservoir, but only when bleeding the brakes....(a two man job)....I would not substitute simply replacing fluid from up top as a substitute for actually bleeding the brakes... With only a separate reservoir for the clutch, my belief is that bleeding the clutch fluid once it gets old or dirty, is virtually impossible with the stock set-up...For this, I use the pump/extract/re-fill/repeat "method"... I apologize for any misunderstanding and there are a lot of aftermarket goodies for clutches, brakes, cylinders, etc. that are available... IMO it can't hurt to change out dirty-looking, blackish appearing clutch fluid from the separate reservoir by using the syringe... I don't think there is any one sure-fire solution, replacement or combination that works in all cases.... ...Hopefully those having trouble with their clutches and clutch pedals will get them fixed and be able to pass along what they felt caused the problem and what the solution was... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#145 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2022 SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,086
|
A friend of mine suggested that my headers might be heating up the fluid, so I'm going to see if the engine installer removed any sort of heat shielding near the clutch fluid line. I'm also going to wrap the line to try to keep it cool.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#146 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Morning Todd, that sounds logical, but like i said mine started on the street long before i had "REAL" issues at Fontana, and i dont have headers. Im not sure about Toehead and Balue as far as headers. Im thinking our 1LE's have a a shortfall so to speak. I mean none of us beat our cars and for 4 of us within a month to all have the same problem...hmmmmmmm.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#147 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Torrance
Posts: 14,564
|
Quote:
My guess is the heat from the brakes far surpasses the heat that may come off the engine....but keeping it all cooler somehow sure couldn't hurt...After all it's the heat that causes fluid breakdown and the need for bleeding and replacement....And tracking these cars for sure heats things up... Good luck, Todd, but those headers would have to be very, very close to the reservoir or the lines to make a difference.... |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#148 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Earth
Posts: 3,904
|
So the the ultimate question here is, what is acting as a catalyst, and speeding up the failure rate on the weakest link in the system?
Or is it simply high heat breaking certain things down? Weakest link in system: Slave Cylinder? All those who have experienced failures, should specifically describe their setup, that relates to above possibilities, like fluid type used, and if not stock fluid, how soon in cars life was it flushed out and with what; one or two tank system; etc..any other mod that you feel worth mentioning including brake ducts. Last edited by Camaro Dude; 12-05-2014 at 09:19 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#149 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
In my case im running the Quantum brake cooling system. I have the separate reservoir for my clutch fluid. I change my fluid often, like after every 2 tanks of gas, which in my case is about every 5 or 6 weeks. I am running Dot 3 (Dot 4 in my brake system) I empty and fill the reservoir like 5 times and each time pump the clutch 30 times.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#150 | ||
![]() Drives: 2013 SW 2SS/1LE Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: San Diego
Posts: 316
|
Quote:
Quote:
So for all mechanical possibilities my car is stock all the way around. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#151 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 3,056
|
Quote:
As it was described in "Range method" threads at Corvette Forum, they do recommend about 30 pumps after fluid is replaced, and you repeat the process until the fluid starts staying clean. Obviously, if you have a bleeder, you could do this much easier in one shot. Beware, though, I've heard of someone who had a seal breakage issue while doing all the pumping. If you don't have the separate clutch reservoir mod: Then you obviously don't need to repeat this as often since there is a lot more fluid to cycle through in the system. Perhaps, sucking the fluid out of the reservoir whenever you bleed the brakes would be more than enough, or if you don't track the car, doing it once every, say, 6 months? I suppose it would depend on your use of the car and the fluid's quality, too.
__________________
'16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread)
'14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#152 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 3,056
|
Quote:
__________________
'16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread)
'14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#153 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I thought about this too. How would this be done, by that i mean how do i get all the old fluid out in order to put Dot 4 in.
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
|
#154 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 3,056
|
They're compatible. You can just switch to using DOT4, and it will replace DOT3 in time.
__________________
'16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread)
'14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|