Can't find front shocks!

[Lou gill]

Are the convertible struts different from the coupe?

[sinisterZL1]

Originally Posted by 1Camaro2SS

I bought the front passenger side strut from Amazon and installed it today. Mine was leaking and rattling badly on bumps. The new one looks exactly the same as the original and the length is also the same. I will replace the driver side as well as it’s recommended to replace them in pairs. No more noises, very happy with it except I wish it was lower cost. I paid $663 plus tax.

I called ACDelco and they said as long as the seller on Amazon is Amazon.com, they will honor the lifetime warranty. They do not warranty anything purchased on eBay.

Thanks for the info.

[1Camaro2SS]

Originally Posted by Lou gill

Are the convertible struts different from the coupe?

They should be the same. I believe the ZL1 convertible has the FE5 suspension as the coupe but check your service parts identification label and it should have FE5 listed there. The label on the coupe is in the trunk under the mat. Not sure where it would be on yours.

[VChula]

Originally Posted by Lou gill

Are the convertible struts different from the coupe?

The ACDelco 580-428 and 580-429 front strut assembly part numbers are the same for the coupe and convertible

The rear strut assemblies are ACDelco 580-445 for the coupe and 580-446 for the convertible.

[sinisterZL1]

What the **** is this spam

[ZL1togo]

Just finished putting struts on all four corners. Couple things I found that I hate the design of. The block where you plug the strut in one side and the wire harness in the other, along with the cheap electrical pins suck. I cut it out and used solder and marine shrink wrap. Any resistance in that connector with the low voltage used can really make a difference.
The way the harness plugs into the ride height rheostat is upside down! The plug has an extension on it that goes around the rheostat and points up! Any water, dirt, etc will try to get into this connection. If they had made the rheostat so the harness plugged into the top, it would’ve had an umbrella effect and worked great. I sealed around it with some quality RTV. Just a little update for everyone. I hope you’re starting to find these struts for you car.

[bsn]

Instead of cutting and soldering-wouldn't have been much easier to use a $5.00 pin tool to un-pin the harness?

[NZZL1]

The connectors are sealed.

https://www.te.com/commerce/Document...-18910-1_F.pdf

[bsn]

In that document they show a pin tool, even gives you the dimensions to make your own.

[ZL1togo]

I understand your question about a pin tool but it’s not that I couldn’t get the pins out if I wanted, it’s just that these small pin and sockets are hard to tell if you are getting good contact. The plastic and seal of the plug fits tight but how is the connection between the tiny pin and socket? Any rust or spreading of the socket (yes, happens a lot with automotive plugs) creates a big problem with this lower voltage. Soldered wires with a good marine shrink tube over it assures no issues. Soldering makes it basically one piece of wire and that’s what I prefer over plug and sockets when I can. This removes the weakest link electrically.