What Did You Do To Your Camaro Today? - Page 1127 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Shawno72 · 03-10-2016, 10:07 PM

Nice

LT1Zob · 03-10-2016, 10:35 PM

Looks great premad. The 1st hole is the worst. Then you have no choice but to continue

bassplayer92 · 03-10-2016, 11:42 PM

Washed, detail sprayed and drove!

This weekend, caliper painting!

eankar · 03-11-2016, 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mndrummer74

I just got it back from being detailed...compound to remove scratches and swirls, Essence polish and CQuartz coating. It looks amazing!!! If you are in the Minneapolis area, Dan Noraker is THE guy to detail your car!!

https://www.facebook.com/RADetailingMinnesota/

Tomorrow it gets a full front 3M clear bra so it never gets any rock chips again.

16 hours, that must have cost a small fortune

G701LE · 03-11-2016, 01:04 AM

Put a transmission cooler in.....

hesster · 03-11-2016, 08:02 AM

Got my Cradle Bushings in - what a pain!

REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!

Shawno72 · 03-11-2016, 08:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hesster

Got my Cradle Bushings in - what a pain!

REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!

This is great info. Thank you. I'll be doing this soon. How long did it take you?

hesster · 03-11-2016, 08:48 AM

The actual replacement of the Bushings was around 6 hours, but I take my time and am in no rush. A key point I learned is you are NOT gonna push these bushings in by hand - they are too tight. So make a tool out of threaded rod, washers, and 1" sockets like I did. Install the top hat first, then the bottom, THEN the metal insert. The bigger project was the total suspension tear down, documented in my member car journal. This took "days" for the front, and more "days" for the rear. Time to clean and paint parts to be reused, install all of the bushings, and reassemble.

Shawno72 · 03-11-2016, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hesster

The actual replacement of the Bushings was around 6 hours, but I take my time and am in no rush. A key point I learned is you are NOT gonna push these bushings in by hand - they are too tight. So make a tool out of threaded rod, washers, and 1" sockets like I did. Install the top hat first, then the bottom, THEN the metal insert. The bigger project was the total suspension tear down, documented in my member car journal. This took "days" for the front, and more "days" for the rear. Time to clean and paint parts to be reused, install all of the bushings, and reassemble.

Cool thank you. I have been adding the 1le suspension parts a little at a time but now it's time to go for all the bushing upgrades along with new BMR trailing arms and adjustable toe arms

Stormcloak · 03-11-2016, 03:53 PM

Had Jannetty Racing properly button up my catback system. I'm 100% pleased with the results. Due for a wash tomorrow.

hesster · 03-11-2016, 03:59 PM

Ready to install, gotta paint a few parts first.

Ryanbabz71 · 03-11-2016, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by premad

Was stressful putting holes in a car with 700 miles on it!

well worth it, looks great

RS5 · 03-11-2016, 10:25 PM

installed some accessories today

rjinotti · 03-12-2016, 12:26 AM

Waxed up for the weekend, gonna cruise the Ft Lauderdale stripe and have some fun with the spring breakers....

03-10-2016, 10:07 PM	#15765
Shawno72 Drives: 2015 Black 2LT RS M6 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Cali Posts: 2,033	Nice __________________ Overkill tune/E85/80mm•CAI cold air intake w/my custom maf tube•Apex air scoop•JacFab ported intake/Extendolater•Vitesse•EE EX2 catch can•Innovate wideband•ARH HFC's•NPP exhaust•11386 xpipe•Brembos/cross drilled/slotted rotors•SS M/C•Pfadt 1.25 springs•1LE struts/sways/strut tower brace•BMR diff bush, trail arms/bush, adj toe links•My custom Tunnel brace•Hurst short throw shifter•JDP stage 1 clutch res•1LE steering wheel, shift boot•ZL1 rear diffuser/splash guards•GM splitter•Z/28 grille/flowtie/spoiler/wheels•GM performance pedals•"Chevrolet" door sills•10" Kicker sub•BigWorm overlays

03-10-2016, 10:35 PM	#15766
LT1Zob Drives: 23 LT1 / 19 Z06 / after 6 5th gens Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: MI Posts: 2,023 View My Garage	Looks great premad. The 1st hole is the worst. Then you have no choice but to continue __________________ "Make yourself sheep and the wolves will eat you"

03-10-2016, 11:42 PM	#15767
bassplayer92 Drives: 2014 Crystal Red Tintcoat - 2LT Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Kearney, MO Posts: 18	Washed, detail sprayed and drove! This weekend, caliper painting! Attached Images

03-11-2016, 01:04 AM	#15769
G701LE Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 IBM silver stipes Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: K.C. Kansas Posts: 1,329 View My Garage	Put a transmission cooler in..... __________________ 2010 Imperial Blue w/ Silver stripes 2SS/RS L99 Mods = Not enough....

03-11-2016, 10:25 PM	#15777
RS5 Drives: 14 1LT RS, 98 Firebird, 01 4runner Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: FL Posts: 17	installed some accessories today Attached Images __________________ 2014 Chevy Camaro 1LT RS Factory: *6spd manual NAV * NPP Exhaust * GM Strut Bar** Aftermarket: K&N CAI * 10" Kicker sub *

03-11-2016, 08:02 AM	#15770
hesster Drives: '10 T/A Conv, '10 2SS, '77 SE T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 887 View My Garage	Got my Cradle Bushings in - what a pain! REAR CRADLE SUB FRAME BUSHINGS - these can be removed using the 1” Socket and Torch method. Put a hydraulic jack under the Diff. I also used (4) Jack Stands for safety. Remove one 24mm Sub-Frame bolt, screw it back in 1/2" and repeat on the remaining three. Remove two sub-frame bolts on either the driver or passenger side. Lower the jack under the differential just enough to place a 1" socket in between the top of the sub-frame bush ferule. Use the second floor jack to lift the corner of the sub-frame with the socket. Add pressure once you are sure the socket is secure between the top of the bushing ferule and the 'frame' rail. Start with the Left Front. When you start to lift the car off the jack stand or Hoist/QuickJack, heat the metal that surrounds the sub-frame bushing. Keep heating until the bushing falls on the floor. Repeat on the Left Rear, you have to heat the hell out of it as it is a larger bushing. Clean the inside of the Bushing Housings in the Frame with a drill and wire wheel. Pop off the Bottom Bushing Metal Caps with a Pry Bar or Socket and extension. Install your new Bushings, I made a tool, ref the pics. Note – it is very unlikely that you can use the Vehicle’s weight or Cradle Bolts to seat the Rear Bushings, it will strip them. Use the lube supplied with the Bushings! Screw in the Cradle Bolts at least ½”. Repeat on the other side. Carefully cinch the Cradle up ensuring the Rear Dowel’s are aligned and the Cradle is seated, and Torque the (4) 21mm Bolts to 130 Ft Lbs. These are TTY, you should buy new!

03-11-2016, 08:48 AM	#15772
hesster Drives: '10 T/A Conv, '10 2SS, '77 SE T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 887 View My Garage	The actual replacement of the Bushings was around 6 hours, but I take my time and am in no rush. A key point I learned is you are NOT gonna push these bushings in by hand - they are too tight. So make a tool out of threaded rod, washers, and 1" sockets like I did. Install the top hat first, then the bottom, THEN the metal insert. The bigger project was the total suspension tear down, documented in my member car journal. This took "days" for the front, and more "days" for the rear. Time to clean and paint parts to be reused, install all of the bushings, and reassemble.

03-11-2016, 03:53 PM	#15774
Stormcloak slower than you Drives: 2012 C6 Z06 Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: NY Posts: 668 View My Garage	Had Jannetty Racing properly button up my catback system. I'm 100% pleased with the results. Due for a wash tomorrow.

03-11-2016, 03:59 PM	#15775
hesster Drives: '10 T/A Conv, '10 2SS, '77 SE T/A Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Michigan Posts: 887 View My Garage	Ready to install, gotta paint a few parts first.

03-12-2016, 12:26 AM	#15778
rjinotti Drives: 2011 SGM 1SS A6 & 2014 SW 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Lighthouse Point, Fl Posts: 490 View My Garage	Waxed up for the weekend, gonna cruise the Ft Lauderdale stripe and have some fun with the spring breakers.... __________________ Last edited by rjinotti; 01-10-2017 at 12:28 PM.

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