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Old 01-02-2017, 02:30 PM   #1625
Lil' Nasty
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Good to know. I look forward to getting it installed.
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Old 01-02-2017, 09:44 PM   #1626
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If you feel vibration at higher speeds you may have to rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees.

I did 0-60 mph in 3.3 seconds last year, the power transfer is a kick in the pants.
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Old 01-03-2017, 01:01 AM   #1627
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If you feel vibration at higher speeds you may have to rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees.

I did 0-60 mph in 3.3 seconds last year, the power transfer is a kick in the pants.


In your camaro?!


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Old 01-03-2017, 09:44 AM   #1628
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In your camaro?!
Yes, on my 11.2 run. 0-30 mph was 1.4 seconds. 1st gear had full boost, after that the belt starts going away so my top end suffers. If I can extend the RPM enough I can keep the torque multiplier of the 3.91 gears but get the advantage of the 3.27 speed.
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:14 AM   #1629
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I also have majority of the engine together now, waiting on parts for the intake manifold now. Since I'm revving the engine so high I need a secondary fuel system, basing mine off of Gretchen's nitrous nozzle one.

Not doing the jackshaft setup for the moment, I want to see how far the 6 rib can be pushed with a high performance impeller.
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Old 01-03-2017, 12:27 PM   #1630
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If you feel vibration at higher speeds you may have to rotate the driveshaft 180 degrees.

I did 0-60 mph in 3.3 seconds last year, the power transfer is a kick in the pants.
Thanks for the tip. Never installed one before so I wasn't sure if you have to align the new shaft from where exactly the stock one was. I guess I'll know if I need to rotate it or not.
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Old 01-03-2017, 01:50 PM   #1631
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When you get the shaft, stand it vertical with the U-joint on the bottom, the CV joint on top. Press down on the edges of the CV joint a few times to make sure it compresses so it will go in without damaging it. My wife's Mustang V6 driveshaft CV joint didn't so it was a pain to install. Also tighten the bolts like a tire for the CV joint. There are 6 bolts, I tighten 1 bolt, skip 2 holes, tighten, skip 1, tighten, skip 2, tighten, skip 1, tighten, skip 2, tighten final. You want the CV joint 100% even with the adapter. Also, barely use locktite, it can throw the balance off if too much is used.
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Old 01-03-2017, 02:19 PM   #1632
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It also helps if you have a wife that can sit in the car as pull the parking brake while it is in neutral. You will have to rotate the shaft by hand and it gets old having to climb out from under it after every bolt. If you have an auto, you can disconnect the trans shifting lever and move that from neutral to park.
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Old 01-03-2017, 02:55 PM   #1633
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Yes, on my 11.2 run. 0-30 mph was 1.4 seconds. 1st gear had full boost, after that the belt starts going away so my top end suffers. If I can extend the RPM enough I can keep the torque multiplier of the 3.91 gears but get the advantage of the 3.27 speed.


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Old 01-03-2017, 08:50 PM   #1634
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I went ahead and ordered the high speed bearing set for my Vortech, might as well take it apart once and be done with it. Right now I'm calculating with a 10-rib 8" crank pulley and 3.33" pulley, the impeller speed will be at 64,000 RPM at 7500 RPM. I will still need to do more work to figure out how to make it work, but that would put the boost very high, probably over 24.

When I tried to figure out how high the engine would have to be revved to for 3.91's to match 3.27 gears it is 8000 RPM. That would probably push the oil pump gears past the limits, if the computer could even keep up.
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Old 01-04-2017, 03:53 AM   #1635
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Soooo the 3.27s would be more efficient ?


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Old 01-04-2017, 10:38 AM   #1636
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Soooo the 3.27s would be more efficient ?


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Depends if the engine can make 20% extra torque, a 3.91 with 500 torque makes the same as a 3.27 with 600 torque. The top end the 3.27 gears would have the advantage but would be making up ground since the 3.91 accelerate faster. Eventually you will get to the point where the torque exceeds what traction there is and larger gears (smaller number) work better.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:17 PM   #1637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
When you get the shaft, stand it vertical with the U-joint on the bottom, the CV joint on top. Press down on the edges of the CV joint a few times to make sure it compresses so it will go in without damaging it. My wife's Mustang V6 driveshaft CV joint didn't so it was a pain to install. Also tighten the bolts like a tire for the CV joint. There are 6 bolts, I tighten 1 bolt, skip 2 holes, tighten, skip 1, tighten, skip 2, tighten, skip 1, tighten, skip 2, tighten final. You want the CV joint 100% even with the adapter. Also, barely use locktite, it can throw the balance off if too much is used.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MagnumForceGB View Post
It also helps if you have a wife that can sit in the car as pull the parking brake while it is in neutral. You will have to rotate the shaft by hand and it gets old having to climb out from under it after every bolt. If you have an auto, you can disconnect the trans shifting lever and move that from neutral to park.
As always, thanks for the great tips. I guess i know for sure what you mean in the second paragraph when im installing it. would think i could rotate the shaft in neutral.
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Old 01-04-2017, 02:35 PM   #1638
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You can rotate the shaft in neutral, it is torquing the bolts where setting the parking brake comes in handy.
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