ZL1 (formerly TT 1LE) Vs Mustang 5.0 (formerly Supercharged)

[Fraxum]

I was dropping my tire pressure to 20 pounds during the summer, but it did not seem to make difference. So I left them at 30. OK so next time I am in good air I will drop the pressure to give it a try again. I would like to see 1.6es, although that may be the limit for NT555Rs with a 6M.

[JackalopeZL1]

You get the right combo of tires and set up you can launch HARD.. play with different pressures too.. it is not always one pressure works for all setups

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by JackalopeZL1

You get the right combo of tires and set up you can launch HARD.. play with different pressures too.. it is not always one pressure works for all setups

Thanks.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Unreal

Uhhh, that is a HUGE issue. Drag radials aren't meant to be run at that pressure. You need to drop them to 16-20psi depending on track conditions. Dropping the tires to 18psi, a nice burn out and launching at 4500+ rpm could easily be 1/2 a second.

My clutch will not cooperate with that launch right now. I am going to get some suspension work done and will do the clutch. The owner of the shop is recommending the Centerforce DYAD. Having read all I can I cannot find very much negative about this clutch.

Edit: I did not read enough, the DYAD was a huge mistake.

I did mention the Mantic 9000 but I am worried if I don't go with his recommendation I will be out in the cold if it does not work out. I will discuss with him on the phone. But he says lots of big HP cars on this clutch. Although that Mantic clutch case would look good in my garage.

My plan is to see how far I can get with 6 pounds of boost, but then turn the boost up when I get tired of farting around. It would be cool to get into the 10s with 6 pounds with a two ton Camaro (+ my 225). That would give the turbo versus PD wars something to talk about. But I think this is a long shot without shedding 200 pounds. I could go on a diet.

[Fraxum]

On another point does anyone know how to set a proper warning on an AEM Fail safe gauge? When this was installed it was supposed to be set up for me but it was not. I did try the default setup but this seems to go off intermittently. It also seems like DA affects this setting. I can't fathom the instructions.

[DarkneSS]

Originally Posted by JackalopeZL1

Yep.. what he said.. you should be able to fully flog it with drag tires from a stop.. do some experimenting.. last time I was at the track there was a boss mustang who before could not get a good launch for beans on stocks tires..He put on some drag radials and was doing darn near rev limit launches and dropped his 60' from 2.2 to 1.6 in one run.

Have you ever used drag radials? lol

I used to think the same way, then I went to the track and found out the hard way. You don't just slap them on get instant traction. I found that they hook significantly less than you would initially think. The increased traction going to a radial from say, a P zero, is not double the traction, not 50% the traction, probably not even anywhere near 25%.

[JackalopeZL1]

Originally Posted by DarkneSS

Have you ever used drag radials? lol

I used to think the same way, then I went to the track and found out the hard way. You don't just slap them on get instant traction. I found that they hook significantly less than you would initially think. The increased traction going to a radial from say, a P zero, is not double the traction, not 50% the traction, probably not even anywhere near 25%.

Yes I have and not all drag tires are created equal. I have used few different radials. Depends on the tire and yes some can make huge differences.

Maybe you should try a few different types and find what works best. What I wrote and you quoted about 60' times was not a lie.. but thanks for doubting it...lol

[Unreal]

Originally Posted by DarkneSS

Have you ever used drag radials? lol

I used to think the same way, then I went to the track and found out the hard way. You don't just slap them on get instant traction. I found that they hook significantly less than you would initially think. The increased traction going to a radial from say, a P zero, is not double the traction, not 50% the traction, probably not even anywhere near 25%.

Depends on the tire, pressure, burn out, etc. It can easily be 2x the traction. Going from a 20" or 19" 275 pirelli to a 325 15" et street or hoosier is night and day. Going from a 20" 275 pirelli to a nt555 20" tire, not so much. Side wall is where it is at. 19-20" drag radials off minimally more traction from a softer compound but still don't have the sidewall. Go down to a 15-16" drag radial and it is night and day. Even my 18" drag radials to a 15" is worlds apart.

[Fraxum]

What I can say for sure is that going from 20" 285/35 Goodyear Eagle F1 Supercar tires to 18" 305/45 NT555R DRs was a huge difference. Those Goodyears were all wheel-hop and spin. Just by adding a CAI and 18" DRs I cut my ET by over .5 seconds when stock. My wheels are 20 pound TSWs, so that helps a little. 7.6 pounds lighter with tires each than the ZL1 20x11" wheels with the 285 Goodyears.

Since my DRs are my everyday tires, I like that the NT555Rs are better in the wet than the better DRs.

While I still might be able to shave a tenth or two from my ET, I need to go bigger to catch Pat. He keeps talking about adding a convertor, but has not done it. I think he is waiting for me to get faster so he can get some close races. The problem with an 11 second car or faster in the T&T lanes is there are not many cars running that fast.

[Vroom_vroom]

They are in between the ss axels and zl1 axels in size. Llt hey are 1le specific.

[Fraxum]

Originally Posted by Vroom_vroom

They are in between the ss axles and zl1 axles in size. They are 1le specific.

Yes, You are right. Not the same, but maybe it was the Z/28 that was the same.

[Fraxum]

Okay, Pat better be on his game by the end of the month. JRE is giving me a higher PSI tune so I can switch back and forth. He is also adding full poly bushings to fix the rear end sloppiness and adjustable toe rods. But I did back off on the clutch for now. To do the clutch right is about $2.5K. I want to do it right so I will wait until next spring.

I have been told over and over with my new setup I will be in the 10s. Pat is waiting for me at 11.1. Game on, Pat will be in the 10s too in better air.

He did tell me though he is tired of finding a close race. He is hoping I can get close.

A big difference between his car and mine is the cool off period. Last Tuesday we were hot lapping 4 times in row. This was right after I got to the track so no cool down at all. I ran my best time of the night on my second lap (11.857@118) and the other three were close even in the hot afternoon sun. Pat's times were all downhill. Rear mount (mine on the manifolds) turbos are the anti heat ticket. No SC setup comes close.

[serpent]

Op, I didnt read the the entire thread but as far as racing goes, you win some you lose some. $$$ is all it takes to make sure you are winning. However there is always someone that has put more into their build, think UGR TT Gallardo or those Alpha GTRs.

Too bad you arent a track guy, I would be tracking that 1LE, that would be fun racing against Mustangs. Straight line racing is dominated by autos/dual clutch transmission cars.

Manuals are for road courses!

[JackalopeZL1]

Originally Posted by serpent

Straight line racing is dominated by autos/dual clutch transmission cars.

Manuals are for road courses!

This is coming from a New Auto Guy..lol but I have always found it rewarding to do well with a Manual on the drag strip.. Kind of a sense of achievement.

I have always been really good with a manual and when I bought my auto ZL1 I surprised myself