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#1695 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Quote:
![]() Hope you get your bumper soon! Be sure to post pics once you complete it! |
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#1696 |
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Mother of PWA Babies
Drives: 2011 RJT 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 37,115
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I don't think I would trust a bus company to deliver my parts.
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#1697 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Actually, in my experience, greyhound does a way better job at delivering stuff than UPS or Fedex. They are also substantially cheaper. The only drawback is that you have to go drop the package off and pick it up at an actual greyhound location as opposed to having it delivered to your house.
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#1698 | |
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Mother of PWA Babies
Drives: 2011 RJT 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 37,115
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Quote:
Never shipped with them
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#1699 |
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Mother of PWA Babies
Drives: 2011 RJT 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 37,115
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Just happy to know all my parts are snugged away in my dining room waiting to be installed.
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#1700 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Lmao! I have a stack of boxes that seems to be getting bigger and bigger
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#1701 |
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Mother of PWA Babies
Drives: 2011 RJT 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Central Pennsylvania
Posts: 37,115
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Headers go on in a few days
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#1702 | |||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 16 Camaro SS, 15 Colorado Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 13,967
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Quote:
Just wanted to give a little update for those whom may have caught this earlier and gave me some suggestions. I don't really feel it warrants its own thread at this point. I used the Trifecta client and the Android Torque app to try and pull any codes that may have been left behind from the incident I described above, but there were no codes in the system according to both of those tools above. So I'm not sure if that is a good or bad thing...I was hoping to see something that might give me a clue as to what happened. Anyways, now this is going to take a bit of a turn...I'll try and keep it short. While my car was idling in the garage I noticed the car was rocking/shaking a bit. Maybe not enough to notice if you was not paying attention but it was shaking. More so than I thought it should be shaking. (No I do not have the ghost cam). Does anyone else notice their car doing this normally?? So I pop the hood and snoop around. First thing that caught my eye was that my Vararam breather on the "clean air" (driver) side looked to be soaked with oil. Sure enough the bottom of the breather had a very small amount of oil that had leaked out over the time since I've owned the Vararam (basically since it was introduced a long time ago). Look at the picture below. You can see the filler inside the breather which used to be white, is now oily brown. I think I'll be getting a new breather soon. Now this is nothing new as years ago when I replaced my stock intake I found oil had entered in through the "clean" side. What it does tell me is that everyone with a breather here should check it every now and again, as it could be getting clogged and not allowing the same release of pressure it it did when new. I don't think this is causing the slightly rough idle. I've always been a little suspect of my catch can possibly causing something like the slight shaking, since an air leak can cause the RPM flucuations. But I know its installed correctly, and the drain valve is shut. No matter, I by passed the can and made the connection back to stock. First video below shows with catch can in use, and the 2nd is using the stock setup. Watch in the videos how the RPM needle is in relation to the white horizontal marker just below it that it is touching. In the first video it jumps a bit more. In the 2nd the car was smoother. Now I know the difference is very small, but I could feel it I hooked the can back up, this time adding some plumbers tape to one of the fittings that did not have it originally, tightened up good. Started the car up and let her idle and this time it seemed to idle better....at least better than in the first video above. Yes this is a long post with not much of a point, but I think I am getting a bit paranoid that my car may not be running in tip top condition. Trifecta got back with me and said "tune looks good" from my datalogs of a few weeks ago so nothing there to report. How hard is it to pull the spark plugs on this car? I've done plenty of spark plug and wire changes on other cars, but this one is a bit different. I think I'd like to take a look at the plugs sometime just cuz. Thanks for viewing my rambling. This is a "lounge" so I'm talking!
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2016 Camaro 1SS - 8-speed - NPP - Black bowties
2010 Camaro 1LT V6 (Sold. I will miss her!) |
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#1703 |
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HT5 EastSide
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DUDE!
I am in the very same exact situation but without the catch can. I have idled roughly every since they replaced my cat but trifecta says it looks fine. On may 4th I am going to open up the manifold and clean it and look around and stuff because something has got to be causing this. People told me to try a MAF cleaner but I dont think that is my problem. I am going to try it though. I have to get a new intake as well...whenever my car gets hot, it feels like it has 200 hp... |
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#1704 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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Quote:
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#1705 |
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Emerald Coast Camaros
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2LT/RS M6 Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Tallahassee FL
Posts: 9,686
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Just a heads up the videos are set to private. But I had the same problem a few months ago. I was running richer than normal so I decided to try and figure out what it was. I cleaned my mass air flow sensor and when that didn't do anything i decided to by pass the can and surprisingly that made a difference. With the can I had a rough idle and even had what sounded like very suddle misfires they even happened while I was sitting at a light. I contacted Tracy about it and he attempt to help me get my can working. After a few months of trying several things it never really worked and I returned my can and purchased the elite one and since then I have had no issues what's so ever.
I don't know if I just had one bad can in a batch or what but Tracy said they tested it multiple times and it had no issues what so ever. I found it very odd that the catch can was what was causing the problem but I kind of just accepted it because the fact that the car was totally different without the can doesn't lie. One thing that I found to help with this was to pull both cables on the battery for a little while to have it rest the ECU to relearn the parameters. Not sure if it will work with you but it worked with me. My car was running so rich that in a matter of a minute after just idling my tips where completely black. It got to the point that I was contemplating on buying the trifecta tune to adjust my AFR and with my mods I should not need one |
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#1706 |
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Stop writing "vert", ffs!
Drives: 2011 2LT Convertible Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Gambrills, MD
Posts: 1,341
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I had an oil soaked breather (Rx breather/cap) once myself - in fact the breather had separated from the cap. It was accompanied by one brief instance of a rough idle. The only explanation that I could come up with for the breather cap failure was that the crankcase had gotten pressurized and since the Rx breather cap has a check valve in it that won't allow flow out, pressure built up until the glue joint failed. Around that time, there were a number of threads here talking about oil leaks from the clean-side, etc. Tracy was recommending the dirty-side PVC orifice "drill mod" as a way to keep that orifice from plugging because when it does plug, the crankcase can pressurize and the only place flow can go is out the clean side. I did the mod and can report that I haven't had a problem since. I know that's just anecdotal evidence, so it may not be the end-all solution. I know that others have tried the mod and have not had success in solving their issue, so... Have you done the drill mod? Or have you checked and cleaned the clean-side orifice?
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Vararam | Vmax Ported TB | Ported IM | Vmax Black ICE-olator |
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#1707 | ||
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 16 Camaro SS, 15 Colorado Join Date: May 2009
Location: Jefferson City, Missouri
Posts: 13,967
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Quote:
I haven't tried a battery pull, but maybe I will! Quote:
I did pull off the clean side and blew through it and it seemed to be fine, so I don't think too much pressure is building up, but I will say with the breather being a bit oil soaked that it may not be releasing pressure the same as when the breather was new. appreciate the help guys.
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2016 Camaro 1SS - 8-speed - NPP - Black bowties
2010 Camaro 1LT V6 (Sold. I will miss her!) |
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#1708 |
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I'm going to put on my flame suit and ask what is probably the dumbest question ever on C5.
Where should my oil level be on my dipstick? There's a bunch of notches and a hashed area at the top. You guys have me so worried with this timing chain deal I'm checking it more often. Mine is in the last section before the hashed area, but closer to the divider than the hashed part. Anyway flame away, I know I should know this, I just was never taught anything about cars so I'm doing it on the fly. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
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