2012 SS N/A Build

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by Ashen 6.2

I don't think there is a limit for those. I think the only way to really know would be to measure the exposed length at install, then re-check each time before using again. And look for any damage to the stud or threads.

As long as they look good and the nuts work like they should I wouldn't worry about it. thats my $.02 anyways.. lol

Yeah I went ahead and got a new set and compared a new one to the old one with my calipers. There was almost .013 difference between the two with the old one being on the plus side. I think it was about time. Lol

[SlowLS1]

Dang Joe, sorry to hear about all the bad luck with the car.

ARP studs are reusable but are fairly cheap to try. You said you had 4 cylinders leaking, which ones are leaking?

And don't sell the car! Walk away and let it sit for a while, come back to it when you have a fresh set of eyes, and emotions...

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by SlowLS1

Dang Joe, sorry to hear about all the bad luck with the car.

ARP studs are reusable but are fairly cheap to try. You said you had 4 cylinders leaking, which ones are leaking?

And don't sell the car! Walk away and let it sit for a while, come back to it when you have a fresh set of eyes, and emotions...

The number 2, 8, and 7 mainly but I think I could see a little evidence of all the ones on the passenger side from by the looks of the plugs. I've also got some piston damage, pitting. I'm guessing from the water?

[SlowLS1]

The pitting is most definitely from coolant.

Is there any signs or tracks where the coolant is getting past the fire rings? Jus trying to get an idea where how coolant is getting into the cylinders, but not showing compression in the coolant system.

Might be a reach here, but since you are seeing evidence of coolant loss on both banks, maybe your torque wrench in not giving the proper torque value when tightening the heads? I would qualify the torque wrench before using it again.

[morepowerjoe]

I was actually thinking the torque wrench but it is a barely used digital gearwrench. I've only used it a few times. But I do have a click type craftsman also. And there is so much coolant coming from everywhere when I pull the heads off I can't really get an idea of where it's coming from.

[morepowerjoe]

This is the one I have. Not really sure it is what I should be using.

https://www.gearwrench.com/all-tools...e-25-250-ftlbs

[SlowLS1]

Originally Posted by morepowerjoe

This is the one I have. Not really sure it is what I should be using.

https://www.gearwrench.com/all-tools...e-25-250-ftlbs

There is nothing wrong with the type of wrench you have. The calibration could be off.

I have one of these that I check mine against.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM60.../dp/B004VYURT0

Just for peace of mind.

What torque values are you using for the ARP studs? Are you using the lube, or doing it dry?

[morepowerjoe]

I torque to 25, 50, and 80 with arp lube on the face of the nuts with the rough sidevof the washer facing down just like the directions say. I actually got a new torque wrench coming to try out because I actually don't really like the digital type.

https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24340-...s%2C163&sr=8-1

It's kind of crazy almost all torque wrenches are made in Taiwan.

[SlowLS1]

Tekton makes good torque wrenches. I have a 1/4" and 3/8" drive Tekton torque wrenches and have always been spot on. Hopefully that solves your problem. I will buy the 1/2" one when my 1/2 Craftsman gives up.

[morepowerjoe]

Well guys it's all fubar at this point. So what I thought was minor to moderate piston damage, well let's just say I was wrong. So the guys at TSP told me that water isn't what caused all the damage, they said it was a foreign object. And since I have the fast intake, I disassembled it to look for the object since I didn't find anything in the combustion chambers. After pulling a couple runners I saw the damn thing. A tiny piece of metal laying on the floor of the intake. Looks to me like a small piece of one of the valves? Not sure. I can't even check the valves because I took the heads back to TSP to be inspected, so now I just hope their truthful with me. But now after seeing this tiny little piece of metal and further inspection of the cylinder walls I guess I'm going to have to have the pistons replaced. Also, it completely blew apart most of the intake runners in the intake manifold, so I have to replace those too. It absolutely sucks but I guess that's the game we play running a highly modified engine.

Since I'm already over bored at 4.070 It looks like I'll have to go to a 4.080 piston to clean up the walls.









These are the pistons that I ordered. Their one of the only 4.080 pistons out there.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLE-930226880T

[chevy pilot]

That sucks.

[Ashen 6.2]

oh damn

[SlowLS1]

Holy SH!T, I felt this in the gut!

Come back bigger and better brother, that is the hard road to upgrades. I'm travelling down the same path as we speak.

[morepowerjoe]

Originally Posted by SlowLS1

Holy SH!T, I felt this in the gut!

Come back bigger and better brother, that is the hard road to upgrades. I'm travelling down the same path as we speak.

Yeah when I opened up the intake it was full of oil so I'm thinking that one of the piston rings might have lost pressure and was sending oil up the intake. I didn't take very good pictures but you can see how it blew out the runner gaskets and even split one of them. My heart sank as I saw the oil and piece of metal.