A MUST READ for Oil Temps for Tracking

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

It might then be 320 degrees F like the C7 Z06? That car's coolant warning is 240, and reduced engine power level is 255 degrees F.

If the C7 is 320 then the CA5 is probably the same. I wonder how much the OEM cooling system reduces temps before the oil enters the engine again. 20-30 degrees? Possibly more?

[X25]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

If the C7 is 320 then the CA5 is probably the same. I wonder how much the OEM cooling system reduces temps before the oil enters the engine again. 20-30 degrees? Possibly more?

If I were the engineer, I'd go with a wide gap, 30-40 degrees at least. My Miata is also pretty good now; I think I'm ready for global warming

[White_SS/RS]

Good read regarding oil in general http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/add...en-racing-oil/

There's been a lot of debate on oil viscosity, temps and whatnot. Something perticular that I've been trying to do a lot of research on is oil temp. Here's a few quotes from the article that stood out for me...

"All oils gets thinner as they get hotter, but oil can protect an engine beyond 300 degrees as long as the viscosity does not drop too low from the heat. The real question is: For how long can oil protect an engine at elevated temperatures? For roughly every 20-degree increase in oil temperature, oil's useful life is cut in half, so for the sake of oil longevity, you want to keep oil temperature under control."

"It is important to realize that above 320 degrees your engine bearings will not be happy, as the bearing alloys do not like temps that high. Keeping your oil temp in the 220-degree range helps extend the life of your engine parts as well as the oil. Never forget that oil does about 40 percent of the cooling in your engine."

"One of the issues with engines that run at wide-open throttle continuously is heat, and these low viscosity oils actually help to reduce heat generation. High viscosity oils generate more heat as they are pumped through an engine, so using a lighter oil helps to prevent excessive temperatures."

[Retro69]

Very good read! Thanks for sharing.

[X25]

I just read it, too; thanks for sharing! The more I read, though, the more I feel uneasy. Perhaps ignorance is indeed bliss? I am torn between Mobil1 EP 5W-30 and Mobil1 ESP 5W-30, the second one being a fake 5W-30, since its specs would lead you to believe it's a 5W-40 if you didn't see the title.

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

I just read it, too; thanks for sharing! The more I read, though, the more I feel uneasy. Perhaps ignorance is indeed bliss? I am torn between Mobil1 EP 5W-30 and Mobil1 ESP 5W-30, the second one being a fake 5W-30, since its specs would lead you to believe it's a 5W-40 if you didn't see the title.

I looked at those as well... Ive looked at a lot of oils. Honestly a street oil hasn't offered what I've been looking for so I started looking at race oils. Ive been thinking about running Redlines 30wt race oil. It's a 10 cSt @ 100c which is lower than most x/30wt but maintains an HTHS of 3.7. Its ester based and uses moly for high pressure lube. It does have 2200ppm of zinc and phos which is about double most street oils but I'm probably going catless anyway when I do headers. It still has some detergents but offers a mediocre TBN so 3-4k oil changes shouldn't be an issue but I'll definately be monitoring it with analysis'.

[X25]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

I looked at those as well... Ive looked at a lot of oils. Honestly a street oil hasn't offered what I've been looking for so I started looking at race oils. Ive been thinking about running Redlines 30wt race oil. It's a 10 cSt @ 100c which is lower than most x/30wt but maintains an HTHS of 3.7. Its ester based and uses moly for high pressure lube. It does have 2200ppm of zinc and phos which is about double most street oils but I'm probably going catless anyway when I do headers. It still has some detergents but offers a mediocre TBN so 3-4k oil changes shouldn't be an issue but I'll definately be monitoring it with analysis'.

If you'll use this oil, you might want to get it from here:
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/r...id=60208818382

This is much cheaper than other sellers/sizes per unit.

[X25]

By the way, why did you not want to go with Redline's 5W-30? I think that's what I'll go with next time. It is dexos1 approved, close enough to Mobil 1 5W-30 viscosity numbers, yet provides protection of a 40 weight at high temp (HTHS 3.7).
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21

I hate the idea of having to use race oil in a street car engine. I also wonder what would happen to my cats if I did so.

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

If you'll use this oil, you might want to get it from here:
http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/r...id=60208818382

This is much cheaper than other sellers/sizes per unit.

for 5 gal. yeah thats a great deal!

Originally Posted by X25

By the way, why did you not want to go with Redline's 5W-30? I think that's what I'll go with next time. It is dexos1 approved, close enough to Mobil 1 5W-30 viscosity numbers, yet provides protection of a 40 weight at high temp (HTHS 3.7).
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21

I hate the idea of having to use race oil in a street car engine. I also wonder what would happen to my cats if I did so.

The cSt of the 30wt is 10 and the cSt of the 5/30 is 11.9 so the 30wt essentually is a lighter weight, close to a 20 but maintains that higher HTHS of 3.7 like its RL 5/30 brother and M1's 0/40. For reference M1 5/30 is 11cSt @ 3.1 HTHS and M1 0/40 is 13.5 cSt @ 3.8 HTHS. I had to call Redline to get the HTHS of its 30wt since they dont have it in their literature.

In basic principle (and your aware of this already) the cSt @ 100c is the oils flowing ability at 100c and the HTHS is its ability to maintain its oil film strength. So witnessing higher temps using M1 0/40 over their 5/30, it got me thinking, along with a lot of research on lowering oil temps, that what the engine needs is higher film strenght matched with a viscosity that flows well to reduce temps.

M1 5/30 worked good for me, maintained good oil pressure; temps were still 290 but the oil analysis showed it was protecting, I still felt there is more on the table. So I started looking at 0/20's more so with Redlines 0/20 which is practically a light 5/30 with a cSt of 9.1 but the HTHS wasn't there (2.9) and 9.1 cSt would probably have the low oil pressure light on at idle sitting at 270*. Thats when I started taking a look at race oils and low and behold (go figure) the possibility of a low cSt and higher HTHS would be possible. Enter the 30wt...

I haven't fully decided yet. Like your concern I need to do more research on the effects zinc, phos, moly have, not only on the cats but also other items.

[X25]

Originally Posted by White_SS/RS

for 5 gal. yeah thats a great deal!



The cSt of the 30wt is 10 and the cSt of the 5/30 is 11.9 so the 30wt essentually is a lighter weight, close to a 20 but maintains that higher HTHS of 3.7 like its RL 5/30 brother and M1's 0/40. For reference M1 5/30 is 11cSt @ 3.1 HTHS and M1 0/40 is 13.5 cSt @ 3.8 HTHS. I had to call Redline to get the HTHS of its 30wt since they dont have it in their literature.

In basic principle (and your aware of this already) the cSt @ 100c is the oils flowing ability at 100c and the HTHS is its ability to maintain its oil film strength. So witnessing higher temps using M1 0/40 over their 5/30, it got me thinking, along with a lot of research on lowering oil temps, that what the engine needs is higher film strenght matched with a viscosity that flows well to reduce temps.

M1 5/30 worked good for me, maintained good oil pressure; temps were still 290 but the oil analysis showed it was protecting, I still felt there is more on the table. So I started looking at 0/20's more so with Redlines 0/20 which is practically a light 5/30 with a cSt of 9.1 but the HTHS wasn't there (2.9) and 9.1 cSt would probably have the low oil pressure light on at idle sitting at 270*. Thats when I started taking a look at race oils and low and behold (go figure) the possibility of a low cSt and higher HTHS would be possible. Enter the 30wt...

I haven't fully decided yet. Like your concern I need to do more research on the effects zinc, phos, moly have, not only on the cats but also other items.

Just so you know, looks like regular Redline 5W-30 also provides great HTHS at 3.7, and it's a little thicker than Mobil 1 5W-30, and is also dexos1 approved:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

Just so you know, looks like regular Redline 5W-30 also provides great HTHS at 3.7, and it's a little thicker than Mobil 1 5W-30, and is also dexos1 approved:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21

Right, and that was the reason I am looking at the 30wt race oil. It maintains that protection but offers a thinner 30 oil. My thinking is the lower viscosity would offer additional cooling benifits. Guess I missed that in my ramble.

I'm not overly concerned with the dexos approval. Not sure if you agree but essentially it's a standard set forth to provide baseline requirements in lubrication, protection cleanliness and emissions goals, probably among other things as well. I can see where race oils fall short in this standard seeing it would not pass emissions or cleanliness based on its detergent level but I'm sure they do a heck of a job in lubrication and protection.

Like I said, not sure if I'll pull the trigger. Still researching.

[X25]

Makes sense. dexos1 approval will shield you from any warranty denials based on the type of oil you use, but in practice, I'm sure they could show the oil cooler or header as the culprit if the engine ever grenades, even though they are supposed to prove that the aftermarket part is responsible for the issue...

[White_SS/RS]

Originally Posted by X25

Makes sense. dexos1 approval will shield you from any warranty denials based on the type of oil you use, but in practice, I'm sure they could show the oil cooler or header as the culprit if the engine ever grenades, even though they are supposed to prove that the aftermarket part is responsible for the issue...

Yeah there's definitely a fine line when it comes to warranty issues.

[jamestown]

Originally Posted by X25

Just so you know, looks like regular Redline 5W-30 also provides great HTHS at 3.7, and it's a little thicker than Mobil 1 5W-30, and is also dexos1 approved:
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=2&pcid=21

Are we sure redline is dexos1 approved? It isn't listed on gm's dexos site, and says 'suitable replacement for' on redline's site, which isn't the same as having the approval of gm.