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#211 | |
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Camaro driver since 1975
Drives: 97 RS, 98 SS and 2010 LT/RS Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Shore, Massachusetts
Posts: 178
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That dealer needs a beatin'. Never toy with a person like that. He should give you a cover for your car for free!
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#212 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2LT RS CGM Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,378
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I FINALLY GOT A VIN!
haha sorry, but i had to break out all caps! im excited. 2G1FC1EV8A9147808
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#213 |
![]() Drives: 06 Malibu Maxx, Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NC
Posts: 32
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Congrats, Levi1922, I was so excited for you when I saw it.
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#214 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2000 Z28. 2010 1SS IMB. Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 1,081
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grats!!
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1990 RS = First Car -SOLD
2000 Z28 = SOLD 2010 1SS/RS = Mysstique Whipple Supercharger Dyno= 618hp 555tq at the wheels IMB Silver Stripes VIN#44025 Born: 9/9/09 Delivered: 9/28/09 |
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#215 |
![]() Drives: 69,10 camaro 71 chevelle Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Shelbyville, IL
Posts: 722
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My car finally reached Chicago Heights by rail today at 3:00 . It should be unloaded thier and brought down by AAG trucking 4 hours south . Should have her soon now . Im going to break it in just like Morgan did on his post , put a few miles on it and take her down the quarter !
The BEST Break for a new car. "very long" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- “DISCLAIMER” Do not use the break in procedure below. Do not do hard acceleration runs and load your engine hard. You don't need this much power. I am not responsible for any damage, breakage or massive power increase caused by this crazy break in procedure. Just because every professional engine builder uses this procedure is no reason you should. IMHO The manual is written by people following “Corporate procedure” in order to mitigate the company’s exposure both legally and financially. If you don’t do what is outlined in there little manual they have ammo in court and for warranty if they so choose. It has almost nothing to do with how to properly break in an engine. Some guy takes a new car out and turns the traction control off. He lays the coals to it like he has in his little import and WAMMO, he raps it around a telephone pole. Now what do you think the legal implications would be if the manual said to do 20 -30 hard acceleration runs and something like this happened. The manual has far less to do with break in and much more to do with legal exposure. For over 25 years I, my family and every single person I am friends with, hang around with and work with build, test, tune, design and race for a living or sport. My brother and I have built some of the fastest engines in the world for just about every form of motor sports you care to name. Engines costing well over 100k-150k. I don’t say this to toot my horn but to give some measure of my background and experience. I do so because the statements I am making in this post will no doubt be controversial for those who have no experience with engine building, component design and high end research and development. Ask 100 professional engine builders what break in procedure they use (no matter the form of motor sports) and I would venture that 100% would say LOAD them hard and change the oil often. It’s the ONLY way to properly break in an engine and anyone who says otherwise has not a clue what they are talking about. Why do you load the engine? The main reason is ring seal. From a metallurgical stand point both the rings and cylinder walls must “relax” and “conform” in order to properly mate and seal. If this is not done properly, quickly and in proper form the chances of a proper ring seal can be lost for ever. Your rings and cylinder wall wear could increase; the engine will use more oil and make less power. The worst the cylinder hone and free roundness of the ring are, the harder you better load the engine or you don’t have a chance in hell of getting the rings to seal. Some people are worried that they may break something. That may happen then again it may not. It may happen if you don’t use this break in procedure and then again it might not. For me, if its going to break its going to do it in the first thirty minutes of my taking position of the vehicle I assure you! I will find the weak link now, not later. The break in procedure here is the way ALL engines are being, and should be broke in. When I say to make hard acceleration runs and load the engine I am not proposing you drop the clutch at 4200+rpm. The consequences of this could be a dropped drive shaft, input shaft, output shaft or the trans itself. Acceleration runs are not the same as drag racing the thing from stop light to stop light and acting like a 16 year old behind the wheel.. You must be in a rolling start and in the middle of low gear you floor the throttle and let the trans shift all the way to what ever speed you wish then let out of the throttle. DO NOT down shift, not ever, not even once during the course of these runs for at least 250-300miles. I put the car in neutral and release all loads after the run but that me. I don’t propose anyone doing this. Its dangerous and you could throw the thing into reverse if your not very careful. If you do not have professional driving experience, don’t do it. If you need more info go here http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Here is what I do and what I am doing as well as the results from doing so. Just drove mine off the lot. Has 21 miles on it. The dealer REFUSED to fill it with 93 octane. I told him that it was no big deal just leaves what fuel is in it from the factory and I will fill it at a station across the street. I had about 25 miles on it when I laid into it with all it had and man oh man what a fricken pooch! It would not even begin to bark the rear tire from a dead stop/full throttle up to 30-35miles and even BOGGED the engine from a dead start. I have kept doing hard acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. Its got 50miles on it and you can feel it coming around with each additional run. I let it cool down for a couple hours before I took it out again. After the cool down I went back out. 50miles on the odometer and acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. She is starting to get a little life in her. You can feel the difference about ever five runs or so it gets a little more power. At about 60miles of acceleration runs to 90mph. It will spin the tires up to second and the ass end will shimmy around a little now. I will let it cool down over night. 80miles on the odometer. Acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. . I can feel it pulling better and better after each acceleration run. Its finally started coming into some power and I mean right fricken NOW! It still feels a little sluggish on the shifts though. 135 miles on the odometer. Its really coming around now! It really wants to fry the tires all the way through low gear but wont quite do it. The traction control and stabiletrac are off but it won’t light them up and accelerate through low gear like a 400hp car should. I will let it cool down over night and lay into it in the morning and see how it goes. I have also noticed that the rear end is starting to squat when I accelerate from a dead launch. Good weight transition for the street but feels a little weird. 165miles on odometer and after overnight cool down. ITS ALIVE !!!! She will fry the tires anytime, anywhere all the way through first, shifts at 6200rpm and turns the tire some in second. Now this is what I wanted and hoped I would wake up to! It flat ass rips up the street all the way through the gears. I have driven a host of low 13, high 12 second cars on the street and this thing will do a low 13 second quarter right now, hands down, no question, no problem. I have driven a plethora of 10 second and 11 second cars as well so I have a good indication of where this stands. I was nothing short of shocked at the power increase. I should say that I was nothing short of shocked at the total lack of power for the first 50 miles or so. It didn’t have 250hp when I drove it off the lot and now, it’s a total animal!! I am loving this! I now am driving it like I stole it and loving every single second. It’s unbelievable how the throttle response and acceleration has come around. It’s a whole new animal and what a mean little nasty animal it is. You hit the throttle and the power is right there, right now. When you hit the throttle it growls and barks, spins the tires and just hauls ass. I now have a perma-grin that a plastic surgeon could not hope to erase! This is, by far the neatest street car I have ever owned. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm __________________ SS/RS Inferno Orange w/ black stripes, black/orange interior, Automatic, sunroof and polished aluminum wheels. Installed New Era CAI. I Ported the throttle body and intake Manifold. (ordered 09-03-09) American Racing Headers with High flow CATs capped off with loudmouth IIs. 160F Thermo. HP tuners software. Darin Morgan R&D / Product Development Manager Profiler Performance Products Phone 937-846-1333 dmorgan@profilerperformance.com http://www.darinmorgan.com http://www.profilerperformance.com |
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#216 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2LT RS CGM Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,378
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thanks!!
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#217 |
![]() Drives: 21 LT1 RS M6 in SSM Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Dupont, WA
Posts: 453
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About time! Happy for you. Mine should get to my dealer some time this week so we can fly out Friday and driver it home on Saturday (about 400 miles).
Rob EDIT: Just tracked it and it is in WA as of tonight and scheduled for Spokane (final rail destination) tomorrow afternoon! Woot! |
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#218 |
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If anyone can look up my train and tell me what it says, I cannot understand exactly, as english is my second language... :(
Something about 'load', but cannot understand what's next and the city it's in...
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2010 1LT/RS CAMARO #45387 - NMGGH6 - V6/M6 - AQUA BLUE METALLIC, BEIGE INTERIOR, C&C PACKAGE
1100 : 10/06/2009 2000 : 08/10 2500 : 08/11 3000 : 08/11 TPW 09/07 3100 : 08/24 3300 : 08/24 3400 : 09/01 3800 : 09/14 - 2G1FF1EV1A9145387 4000 : 09/11 4200 : 09/16 4200 : 09/23 ![]() |
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#219 | |
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I GOT HER
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2ss/rs RJT Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Duluth Ga 30097
Posts: 399
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#220 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro and 2007 Yukon XL Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 99
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Here He Is!!!
Ordered 7/15/2009........Delivered 9/18/2009. Black 2SS/RS w/ IO interior sunroof polished wheels
I just took a couple pictures on my iPhone, guys it was definitely worth the wait. I'll post much better pictures later. Was too anxious to get back in and drive. |
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#221 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Black 2SS Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: 3rd Coast
Posts: 46
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Hey Guys mine has arrived!!! I checked with the rail and it was empty as of yesterday here in Houston, hoping the dealer has it ready for me this afternoon....
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#222 |
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M6 9 second club
Drives: A 4000 Lb BeaSSt Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Crackin Azz on a hi-way near you
Posts: 1,033
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2SS/RS IOM/IO Interior, M6/BLK RALLY STRIPES
_______________________ Ordered and deposit given, 6/18/2009 Ordered by Dealer, 7/01/2009 1100, 7/14/2009 2000, 8/17/2009 3000, 8/21/2009 3300, 8/28/2009 TPW-9/07/2009 3400, 9/01/2009 3800, 9/14/2009 -- #45010 4200, 9/18/2009 -- GOT THE STRIPES ON AND NOW ON TRAIN ![]() NOW FOR THAT LONG RIDE TO H-TOWN ![]() RAILCAR # ETTX905808 Last edited by J-Rod6410; 09-21-2009 at 02:17 PM. |
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#223 | |
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M6 9 second club
Drives: A 4000 Lb BeaSSt Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Crackin Azz on a hi-way near you
Posts: 1,033
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How long did it take to arrive to Houston ![]() Dealer told me 7 to 10 days. mine left on Friday the 18th. Last edited by J-Rod6410; 09-29-2009 at 10:03 AM. |
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#224 |
![]() Drives: Silver Ice 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 136
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Can one of yall help me figure out where my car is. It shows to be on rail car ETTX54142
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