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Old 01-08-2011, 12:26 PM   #211
caverman


 
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Just a suggestion. IMO it looks cool to paint the Halltech with a Yellow (for Yellow Jacket) paint pen. Easier to do with it off the car.
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Old 01-08-2011, 12:44 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caverman View Post
Just a suggestion. IMO it looks cool to paint the Halltech with a Yellow (for Yellow Jacket) paint pen. Easier to do with it off the car.
Yeah that does look nice....may have to find me a yellow paint pen and do mine before I install. Maybe I can find one close to RJT?

Thanks for your install pics also......good reference to look at for when I put mine in.
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Old 01-08-2011, 01:42 PM   #213
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Originally Posted by JProberts View Post
Does you guys install time include removal of the OEM air box? If not I guess thats another 15-30 min.

Thanks fellas
That includes taking the stock box out. As I said before, the stock box is held on via two studs inside the box. Take the plug off the MAF, unscrew the two screws holding the MAF in place, then remove it. Lay somewhere safe. Take the nuts off the studs (deep well socket), unscrew the clamp around the TB and lift it off. There may be rubber gromets around the holes in the box so you may have to work it up the studs. No need to be really gentle with it since it's all plasic. For the install, put the TB hose on the TB and tighten it down a bit, to keep it in from falling off. Put the Yellowjacket intake pipe through the hole in the heat shield, then put the shield in place. Put the nut back on the stud that holds the shield, but don't tighten it all the way down. Push the intake pipe into the TB hose but don't tighten the clamp. At this point, you're pretty much done. Go back to the shield and and make sure it's not binding anywhere, then tighten the stud the rest of the way down. Put the filter on then go back to the TB hose. Push the intake pipe into the hole until the filter doesn't touch the washer bottle, then tighten both TB clamps down. The PCV hose gets attatched to the intake nipple then route it under the engine cover to where it doesn't touch anything. Line up the Halltech line with the OEM hard line. Cut the hard plastic OEM hose at a spot that's hidden or at least out of the way. Use some of the supplied lube around the hard line to make it slide into the rubber hose more easily. No clamp is needed here since it's a very tight fit and there's just suction on the line. Put the MAF back in (holes only line up one way), then screw it back in. All done. Go out and hear/feel the difference. I'd take it easy for a couple miles to let the PCM learn the new airflow but then you can beat on it as usual. By a couple, I mean 5 or so. No need to wait for 50-100miles like some of the others recommend. It may look intimidating at first but after you're done, I gaurantee you'll be able to reverse what you just did in less than 30min. You made a great choice in choosing the Halltech. As i'm sure you know, it was the top performer in the Jannetty test. It's a fantastic intake and Jim has great customer service. I concur that painting the "Halltech" is a very nice touch. Mine is painted yellow as well. Goes well with my black car and after all it is a YELLOW jacket.

If you need anymore help, feel free to post here or you can PM me or Caverman. There's a couple threads around here somewhere that has a few install pics.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
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Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
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Old 01-08-2011, 02:38 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axis View Post
That includes taking the stock box out. As I said before, the stock box is held on via two studs inside the box. Take the plug off the MAF, unscrew the two screws holding the MAF in place, then remove it. Lay somewhere safe. Take the nuts off the studs (deep well socket), unscrew the clamp around the TB and lift it off. There may be rubber gromets around the holes in the box so you may have to work it up the studs. No need to be really gentle with it since it's all plasic. For the install, put the TB hose on the TB and tighten it down a bit, to keep it in from falling off. Put the Yellowjacket intake pipe through the hole in the heat shield, then put the shield in place. Put the nut back on the stud that holds the shield, but don't tighten it all the way down. Push the intake pipe into the TB hose but don't tighten the clamp. At this point, you're pretty much done. Go back to the shield and and make sure it's not binding anywhere, then tighten the stud the rest of the way down. Put the filter on then go back to the TB hose. Push the intake pipe into the hole until the filter doesn't touch the washer bottle, then tighten both TB clamps down. The PCV hose gets attatched to the intake nipple then route it under the engine cover to where it doesn't touch anything. Line up the Halltech line with the OEM hard line. Cut the hard plastic OEM hose at a spot that's hidden or at least out of the way. Use some of the supplied lube around the hard line to make it slide into the rubber hose more easily. No clamp is needed here since it's a very tight fit and there's just suction on the line. Put the MAF back in (holes only line up one way), then screw it back in. All done. Go out and hear/feel the difference. I'd take it easy for a couple miles to let the PCM learn the new airflow but then you can beat on it as usual. By a couple, I mean 5 or so. No need to wait for 50-100miles like some of the others recommend. It may look intimidating at first but after you're done, I gaurantee you'll be able to reverse what you just did in less than 30min. You made a great choice in choosing the Halltech. As i'm sure you know, it was the top performer in the Jannetty test. It's a fantastic intake and Jim has great customer service. I concur that painting the "Halltech" is a very nice touch. Mine is painted yellow as well. Goes well with my black car and after all it is a YELLOW jacket.

If you need anymore help, feel free to post here or you can PM me or Caverman. There's a couple threads around here somewhere that has a few install pics.
Thanks for the additional instructions, confident with what I have learned form you guys I will be able to get it done without tearing anything up. Now if i culd juc=st get some better weather I can put it on......I will have it on by the end of next week bad weather or not.

Will let you guys know how it went.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:03 PM   #215
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Why can you not view the carbon on the HALLTECH website?

Also, the "contact us" on the same website isn't setup....seems kinda strange.
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Old 01-09-2011, 04:26 PM   #216
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Originally Posted by OmniCamaro View Post
Why can you not view the carbon on the HALLTECH website?

Also, the "contact us" on the same website isn't setup....seems kinda strange.
It may be that he doesn't have the new pics of the CF CAI up yet. He changed the design not long ago (made it better). Don't know why the "contact us" doesn't work. I know i've talked with Jim multiple times. His parts are second to none and has always helped out when needed.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
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Old 01-10-2011, 07:51 PM   #217
dellidog
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Halltech CAI installed

This is my first post after reading thousands of previous posts. Thought I'd get my feet wet starting here. Install took about an hour because I was doing final tweaks to get it just right. After the over night fuse pull it was off to I-95 for a test, What a difference!!! No official clock but we hit triple digits on the entrance ramp. If any body asks, my recommendation is Halltech. Thanks Jim.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:27 PM   #218
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Originally Posted by dellidog View Post
This is my first post after reading thousands of previous posts. Thought I'd get my feet wet starting here. Install took about an hour because I was doing final tweaks to get it just right. After the over night fuse pull it was off to I-95 for a test, What a difference!!! No official clock but we hit triple digits on the entrance ramp. If any body asks, my recommendation is Halltech. Thanks Jim.
That RJT looks good. Is it powder coated or painted? I talked to Jim about painting the intake and he informed me that it's VERY hard to paint since the release agent in the molds infuses into the material and makes it extremely hard to get the paint to adhere well.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:38 PM   #219
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Welcome to the club. These are nice aren't they?

Looking at your engine bay pix though it looks like your brake/clutch fluid reservoir cap is leaking. You might want to check that out since that will eat right through your paint.

Otherwise enjoy your new Halltech Yellowjacket!!!

T.
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:25 PM   #220
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Painted Halltech CAI

I'd spoken to Jim before I decided to do the paint. I degreased mine, wash with Dawn dishwashing soap, wiped with alcohol, green scuff pad, washed with Dawn again and wiped again with the alcohol. Used Duplicoler adhesion promotor, Duplicolor Dark Cherry Metallic, and clear. Five coats of color with 4 coats clear. Followed the directions precisely for the promotor and color coats.
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:45 AM   #221
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Originally Posted by dellidog View Post
I'd spoken to Jim before I decided to do the paint. I degreased mine, wash with Dawn dishwashing soap, wiped with alcohol, green scuff pad, washed with Dawn again and wiped again with the alcohol. Used Duplicoler adhesion promotor, Duplicolor Dark Cherry Metallic, and clear. Five coats of color with 4 coats clear. Followed the directions precisely for the promotor and color coats.
I hope it stays on and stays looking nice. It does look cool painted.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

I once parallel parked a train.
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Old 01-15-2011, 12:19 PM   #222
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HELP GUYS!!!!

So I just installer my yellow jacket an everything was all good until I screwed the MAF back into the new air tube location.

Top screw went in perfectly and very snug. But the bottom screw got half way in and got real loose...turns out the screw stripped th ehole on the way in and now I cannot get the bottom screw in at all

So my question is must I have both screws in the MAF for proper operation of the MAF?

Can I simply get a larger diameter screw and try to create a new hole with a slightly wider screw? Could I put some silicone caulk in the hole and then try the original screw?

Do I need to replace the entire air tube with a new one?

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:00 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JProberts View Post
So I just installer my yellow jacket an everything was all good until I screwed the MAF back into the new air tube location.

Top screw went in perfectly and very snug. But the bottom screw got half way in and got real loose...turns out the screw stripped th ehole on the way in and now I cannot get the bottom screw in at all

So my question is must I have both screws in the MAF for proper operation of the MAF?

Can I simply get a larger diameter screw and try to create a new hole with a slightly wider screw? Could I put some silicone caulk in the hole and then try the original screw?

Do I need to replace the entire air tube with a new one?

Thanks for the help guys.

Call Jim right now. He will probably answer. 262-965-4300



I would think you could add a slightly larger screw. Definatley get both screws in so that the MAF will fit properly. Not sure that I would put the silicone in the whole unless you have to.
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Old 01-15-2011, 01:03 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dellidog View Post
This is my first post after reading thousands of previous posts. Thought I'd get my feet wet starting here. Install took about an hour because I was doing final tweaks to get it just right. After the over night fuse pull it was off to I-95 for a test, What a difference!!! No official clock but we hit triple digits on the entrance ramp. If any body asks, my recommendation is Halltech. Thanks Jim.
Looks good, although I would black out the Halltech lettering.
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