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Old 09-15-2013, 12:27 PM   #2521
Scott@Bjorn3D


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace1USMC View Post
See my previous post right above this one. It will fix ya up right!
Yes there is a gallon of the last pump run sitting in that hose. Try to find a station that uses a hose for each rating.
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Old 09-15-2013, 12:34 PM   #2522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace1USMC View Post
Not always the case. In almost every tune I've seen, there is still a low octane timing map. The only way to assure that it will never revert back to the low octane timing map is to copy the high octane map into the low octane map. Then and only then, can you actually "never look back".



Here's another example I've seen... some cars I've seen have VERY sensitive knock sensors. The knock senor is what will throw the car back to the low octane timing map. The fuse pull is a good fix - I did it too back when I first got the car. However, the best way to permanently fix this issue and never see it again is to copy the high octane timing map values (ctrl+a, then ctrl+c) and paste them into the low octane map (ctrl+a, then ctrl+v). It's incredibly easy to do, and anyone that has ever used and is comfortable with Excel spreadsheets can easily do this with HP Tuners.
Actually I've checked with my tuner, you may of heard of him (Ted Jannetty) and he said 100 percent not necessary!!
So again tune that With Ted's tune and never look back!!

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Old 09-15-2013, 01:19 PM   #2523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott@Bjorn3D View Post
Yes there is a gallon of the last pump run sitting in that hose. Try to find a station that uses a hose for each rating.
Sure would be great if I've finally solved this.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:43 PM   #2524
gregross
 
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does 2013 model require fuse pull ? why can't computer re adjust timing after it senses high octane fuel ?
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:57 PM   #2525
MrPace
 
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My dealer told me point blank there was 87 in the tank when I picked it up.

I ran a tank and a quarter of 93 through my 2013 2SS before I pulled the fuses for 3 hours on Sunday. After starting up the car, I really couldn't tell any difference. Maybe I didn't have them out long enough, or maybe the 2013s relearn on their own quickly.

Either way, there was a video on here that I saw the other day from the man who took credit for discovering this fuse pull, where he put testers to each fuse and saw for himself that there was NO current going through these fuses when the car was turned off.

Therefore, it seems impossible that pulling these two particular fuses would do ANYTHING more than what happens when the car is simply turned off for the night.

I did however use the RANGE AFM disable module today for the first time, and THAT certainly made a noticeable difference, but that is for another thread.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:07 PM   #2526
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Originally Posted by SSRS55 View Post
Actually I've checked with my tuner, you may of heard of him (Ted Jannetty) and he said 100 percent not necessary!!
So again tune that With Ted's tune and never look back!!

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Ummm, not sure if that's supposed to impress us or something, but are you actually saying that your tuner is claiming that there aren't two timing maps - one for high octane and one for low octane, or are you saying that your tuner says that it's not 100% necessary to copy the high octane values into the low octane values in order to ASSURE that it will never revert back to low octane settings, or that the knock sensors are sensitive (by design as a safeguard against detonation)? I call BS on any of that. Either that or you didn't properly explain my post with the details when you checked with your tuner.

I'll just say this...if you are tired of having to pull fuses often, then do what I did, and get rid of the low octane values in the timing map. Remember, the knock sensors will interpret any metallic noise as knock. If you don't believe me, hook up HP Tuners in VCM Scanner mode and drive on a gravel road, or even still, drive onto the shoulder/emergency lane of a paved highway where there are bits of rock and gravel and watch and see for yourself with your own eyes exactly what happens.

There have been SO many Camaros that get the knock sound because they use an aftermarket exhaust measuring 3" or bigger, and the exhaust sometimes rattles against the chassis brace the pipes are routed over in the center of the car. You can argue all you want - some folks just argue cause that's who they are - but I don't gain anything by trying to help folks on here with the lessons I've learned the hard way.
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:19 PM   #2527
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There is a fuse puller tool in the fuse box that makes it rather simple. But yes, give it a tug...they aren't hard to pull or replace. And they are the same exact fuse in each spot so you don't have to worry about which one goes where when it comes time to put them back in...
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:53 PM   #2528
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Hey, I have a '12 SS that has long tube headers, CAI, magnaflow exhaust and a dyno tune. I've read through about 20pages so far but haven't got the answer I'm looking for, could it mess up/with my tune that I have on it now if I pulled fuses #5 and #20. Could it harm the car since it already has a tune? Thanks in advanced.
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:06 PM   #2529
Ace1USMC
 
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Originally Posted by hohnadell11 View Post
Hey, I have a '12 SS that has long tube headers, CAI, magnaflow exhaust and a dyno tune. I've read through about 20pages so far but haven't got the answer I'm looking for, could it mess up/with my tune that I have on it now if I pulled fuses #5 and #20. Could it harm the car since it already has a tune? Thanks in advanced.
No, it should not. If your tuner did the tune like most tuners, the low octane tables and values are still the stock settings. Pulling the fuses just makes sure your ECM is reading the high octane tables that the tuner probably changed for max power.
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Old 09-26-2013, 09:10 PM   #2530
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Originally Posted by Ace1USMC View Post
No, it should not. If your tuner did the tune like most tuners, the low octane tables and values are still the stock settings. Pulling the fuses just makes sure your ECM is reading the high octane tables that the tuner probably changed for max power.
Thank you. I'll pull them tonight an see how it does tomorrow.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:37 PM   #2531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hohnadell11 View Post
Hey, I have a '12 SS that has long tube headers, CAI, magnaflow exhaust and a dyno tune. I've read through about 20pages so far but haven't got the answer I'm looking for, could it mess up/with my tune that I have on it now if I pulled fuses #5 and #20. Could it harm the car since it already has a tune? Thanks in advanced.
You mentioned the exhaust in your mods - did you get a 2.5" exhaust or a 3" exhaust system? If you got the 3" one, did you use some spacers to lower the chassis brace to make certain you won't ever rattle the pipe on the brace? You should check and make sure - because the knock sensors WILL interpret the two pipes hitting the brace as knock, and revert the timing table back to the low octane values. Just something to think about/check.
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Old 09-27-2013, 02:10 PM   #2532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace1USMC View Post
You mentioned the exhaust in your mods - did you get a 2.5" exhaust or a 3" exhaust system? If you got the 3" one, did you use some spacers to lower the chassis brace to make certain you won't ever rattle the pipe on the brace? You should check and make sure - because the knock sensors WILL interpret the two pipes hitting the brace as knock, and revert the timing table back to the low octane values. Just something to think about/check.
Did not know this about the knock sensors interpreting gravel and exhaust rattle as knock .. Good advice.

I'll have to try the fuse pull and see if it helps since I replaced my exhaust and did have an issue with it hitting the heat shield I had to adjust.

In addition, I've ran on quite a few gravel roads on cruises this summer.
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Old 09-27-2013, 02:25 PM   #2533
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Originally Posted by GEEKFREEKSCOTTY View Post
Did not know this about the knock sensors interpreting gravel and exhaust rattle as knock .. Good advice.

I'll have to try the fuse pull and see if it helps since I replaced my exhaust and did have an issue with it hitting the heat shield I had to adjust.

In addition, I've ran on quite a few gravel roads on cruises this summer.

Yup - I live on a gravel/dirt road for the last 1/4 mile before my paved driveway. I got tired of having to do the fuse pull all the time, so I ponied up and got HP Tuners myself. I hooked it up in Scan mode, and you can see the knock sensors reading the gravel hitting the underside of the car while I'm driving DOWNHILL (no throttle). That's when I figured out how to get rid of it permanently by copying the high octane timing curve values into the low octane map. I've never had the problem since then.
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:24 AM   #2534
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Originally Posted by Ace1USMC View Post
Ummm, not sure if that's supposed to impress us or something, but are you actually saying that your tuner is claiming that there aren't two timing maps - one for high octane and one for low octane, or are you saying that your tuner says that it's not 100% necessary to copy the high octane values into the low octane values in order to ASSURE that it will never revert back to low octane settings, or that the knock sensors are sensitive (by design as a safeguard against detonation)? I call BS on any of that. Either that or you didn't properly explain my post with the details when you checked with your tuner.

I'll just say this...if you are tired of having to pull fuses often, then do what I did, and get rid of the low octane values in the timing map. Remember, the knock sensors will interpret any metallic noise as knock. If you don't believe me, hook up HP Tuners in VCM Scanner mode and drive on a gravel road, or even still, drive onto the shoulder/emergency lane of a paved highway where there are bits of rock and gravel and watch and see for yourself with your own eyes exactly what happens.

There have been SO many Camaros that get the knock sound because they use an aftermarket exhaust measuring 3" or bigger, and the exhaust sometimes rattles against the chassis brace the pipes are routed over in the center of the car. You can argue all you want - some folks just argue cause that's who they are - but I don't gain anything by trying to help folks on here with the lessons I've learned the hard way.
I smell Troll!!
Yea that's it, you caught me, that was My life's mission to impress you!
Wow are you for real. I was simply stating what one of the best tuners for these cars said when I asked him if a fuse pull was necessary after getting his tune!
So get your panties out of a bunch and stop trying to pick fights.
I'll take what he says over your supposed facts all day long...
RANT ON PAL!!!


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