Max boost, stock tune? Before codes?

[Dark Sun]

Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY

I made 540 wheel with the stock tune.

Air intake
Adjusted boost bypass valve(it picked up +1-2lbs of boost when cold out)
Ported stock throttle body
Cat delete.

No codes as I turned off the downstream 02's with HP Tuners.

When it got cold out the injectors were 101%. Otherwise it ran fine.

So you did the bypass adjustment, I’ve done something different with the actuator, then the adjustment also. Gauge is now reading between the middle and 15. Trying to schedule a dyno run now. Have a speed shop 2 miles from home.

[FasNuf]

Ok, Getting rid of the gap at the bypass by having it adjusted tighter is a known mod that I think everyone here has done. You will reach a point in your boost where it'll run like crap and threasholds will need adjusted. Listen to GTSTOREY, he doesn't know it, but has helped me several times on the HPTuners forum and knows his poo.

Attached is a link to my video I did where max boost was messing with me and what I had to do to fix it. This is an older video and more has been learned and minor corrections to the video are in order, but I think you'll get the jist. Not sure if this is what you're talking about but here it is anyways.

https://youtu.be/2Y7rPBwQMWg?si=--YyF4X-H5UH0gfJ

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Mark

[silversleeper]

Yeah ok you should have went with the potato
I won't win the forum's most polite member award this year so keep that in mind with my response.
I don't think you understand this engines controllers as much as you would like to.
First the codes to throw a CEL or limp home won't self tune the car or keep it from harm quickly as it could or you are thinking. Why am I so stupid to pay JRE like $500 for a mail order tune

Second I don't think you understand that controller. It doesn't shut down like a blowoff valve or built in turbo controller blade (with stock pullies unless some big problem/boost disable). It's there to use less hp spinning the rotors during non boost. They had it to shut tighter but in cold weather it'd get stuck shut so they made it gap some like throttle blades in a carb at idle. Not completely shut. If you made it shut more you might get 1psi unless it was far out of adjustment.
If you think you have 15psi now you have already melted your cats from your unknown mods. Congrats

[Dark Sun]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Yeah ok you should have went with the potato
I won't win the forum's most polite member award this year so keep that in mind with my response.
I don't think you understand this engines controllers as much as you would like to.
First the codes to throw a CEL or limp home won't self tune the car or keep it from harm quickly as it could or you are thinking. Why am I so stupid to pay JRE like $500 for a mail order tune

Second I don't think you understand that controller. It doesn't shut down like a blowoff valve or built in turbo controller blade. It's there to use less hp spinning the rotors during non boost. They had it to shut tighter but in cold weather it'd get stuck shut so they made it gap some like throttle blades in a carb at idle. Not completely shut. If you made it shut more you might get 1psi unless it was far out of adjustment.
If you think you have 15psi now you have already melted your cats from your unknown mods. Congrats

Obviously you don’t know me and I’m just as much of a smart a**, this mod I’ve done does not force the bypass blades against the housing and is correctly adjusted with a slight gap to prevent sticking. This only raises the needed pressure to open the bypass valve under pressure. The vacuum side still does the exact same thing. And I know and understand exactly how it works. The supercharger applies pressure to the charge air solenoid valve first, and the ECM controls the pressure to the bypass actuator to open the bypass valve to regulate the boost. The charge air solenoid vents unnecessary air to atmosphere that’s not needed to maintain boost.

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by Dark Sun

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Ok.

[Dark Sun]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Ok.

If you don’t understand what I have done, it’s ok, I knew not everyone would see and understand it. All I’ve done is change the spring ratio of the bypass actuator, nothing else. A little math on the spring rates is all.

[silversleeper]

Originally Posted by Dark Sun

If you don’t understand what I have done, it’s ok, I knew not everyone would see and understand it. All I’ve done is change the spring ratio of the bypass actuator, nothing else. A little math on the spring rates is all.

Oh I did think it looked like that. Treating it just like a blowoff valve actuator....

[bsn]

I guess I am trying to understand how you got 3lbs of boost by playing with the actuator unless it was way out of adjustment? Like has been said before it really has nothing to do with increasing boost when properly adjusted. The factory gauge is not that accurate so I wouldn't trust it for values . When you increase boost too much you increase cylinder pressure which can lead to detonation unless you make adjustments to fuel and timing to compensate. Stock boost is 8.5-9 psi if for some reason you really are at 12 psi I would say your already in the danger zone.

[Dark Sun]

Originally Posted by silversleeper

Oh I did think it looked like that. Treating it just like a blowoff valve actuator....

Yes, if the supercharger or turbocharger is already making more than can be used, and needs to be vented, why spin them faster to do the same thing? Unless the cfm volume is not enough per displacement of the engine at said psi, aka out of lungs. Now I admit I may need to tune and I’m scheduling a dyno run and ordering hp tuner soon.

[FasNuf]

Originally Posted by bsn

I guess I am trying to understand how you got 3lbs of boost by playing with the actuator unless it was way out of adjustment? Like has been said before it really has nothing to do with increasing boost when properly adjusted. The factory gauge is not that accurate so I wouldn't trust it for values . When you increase boost too much you increase cylinder pressure which can lead to detonation unless you make adjustments to fuel and timing to compensate. Stock boost is 8.5-9 psi if for some reason you really are at 12 psi I would say your already in the danger zone.

He's not making something that isn't inherently there, just allowing to be used sooner. He's allowing the bypass to close at a lower rpm by adjusting the spring rate on the valve thus having the boost available. Not sure if I'm making sense but I wouldn't need boost at 1500 rpm.

[Dark Sun]

Originally Posted by bsn

I guess I am trying to understand how you got 3lbs of boost by playing with the actuator unless it was way out of adjustment? Like has been said before it really has nothing to do with increasing boost when properly adjusted. The factory gauge is not that accurate so I wouldn't trust it for values . When you increase boost too much you increase cylinder pressure which can lead to detonation unless you make adjustments to fuel and timing to compensate. Stock boost is 8.5-9 psi if for some reason you really are at 12 psi I would say your already in the danger zone.

Raising the psi is easy, it’s just math with spring rates. I’m going to look at the tune. Working on a dyno run and getting hp tuner now.

[Dark Sun]

Originally Posted by FasNuf

He's not making something that isn't inherently there, just allowing to be used sooner. He's allowing the bypass to close at a lower rpm by adjusting the spring rate on the valve thus having the boost available. Not sure if I'm making sense but I wouldn't need boost at 1500 rpm.

Yes that is correct, and it only starts making boost at 1500 rpms if the throttle is opened. At normal driving, it’s still in vacuum. If I’m driving at 60 mph and give it half throttle but not enough to down shift, it’s making boost at that rpm range and torque is increased. At 60 mph, full throttle, car goes sideways on stage 1 of performance setting. Boost is instant, and also increased by several psi at this point. Getting a gauge, hp tuner, and dyno run lined up now.

[FasNuf]

Originally Posted by Dark Sun

Yes that is correct, and it only starts making boost at 1500 rpms if the throttle is opened. At normal driving, it’s still in vacuum. If I’m driving at 60 mph and give it half throttle but not enough to down shift, it’s making boost at that rpm range and torque is increased. At 60 mph, full throttle, car goes sideways on stage 1 of performance setting. Boost is instant, and also increased by several psi at this point. Getting a gauge, hp tuner, and dyno run lined up now.

Sounds like stuff for a future video

[FASTFATBOY]

Originally Posted by Dark Sun

So you did the bypass adjustment, I’ve done something different with the actuator, then the adjustment also. Gauge is now reading between the middle and 15. Trying to schedule a dyno run now. Have a speed shop 2 miles from home.

I was just telling you that 540 wheel in cool air is about the limit of the stock injectors with a manual trans.

Do I think you're making 540 wheel? No, if that's the only mod you did. It will be around 510 wheel with an auto.


I can tell you this, what you have done has changed the power curve which will inherently effect the transmission as the transmission programming is not made for that power that early if it's an automatic..