$2,000 to spend, logical order?

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by njdad61

When I moved everything from the 2011 to the 2012, I purposefully left off the scoop for a couple weeks to see if I'd notice a difference when I installed it. There was no night-and-day difference, but i did break the tires free at 75 mph the other day in 3rd gear for the first time and my average MPG has gone up almost a full point so it must be doing something.

Cool, thanks! I am sure I notice a bit since I am adding the scoop and a one piece drive shaft at the same time!

[dcarlos55]

If your going to be taking it to the track, then trailing arms / bushings should be high on your list. My first time at the strip with mine all it would do was hop. That's a quick route to broken parts that will eat up your wallet fast. I used the Pfadt trailing arms and now it doesn't hop at all.

There are several companies who make quality suspension parts for these cars. Pfadt, Pedders, BMR and LSR are just a few. I'm not about to tell you which is better but I couldn't be happier with the Pfadt ones. Most of the people here will tell you whatever they have on their car are the best but I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.

I can't get mine to stick well but from what I read on here , that's a common problem. Drag radials help considerably, but upgrading the drivetrain to take the strain without breaking isn't cheap.

Headers, cai and tune are a great investment for making horsepower without breaking the bank, but you still have to get it to the ground.

[kencam]

I also recommend spending it all on suspension. I did coilovers, aftermarket rear arms/links and the lower outside upright bushing all in one go.

[kencam]

What you need is a custom set of fins before your AFM. I DIYed a short ram for my Si and I can make it go rich or lean according on how I bend the fins.

Originally Posted by HondaPowered

... I'm not sure exactly how well the LS3 or L99 reacts to just an intake, I know on my civic's engine it would lean it out.

[Nessal]

Originally Posted by CC Performance

So you have a brand new 2012 with 100 miles and the first thing you want to do is void the warranty?
Personaly I would wait and see if their are any bugs that need shaking out...
L99 or LS3 ?

Cold air intake and headers... an engine is an air pump.. move more air make more power

Stall and gears will improve what you have and suspension being able to launch the car will all get you there quicker

Then you have cams and heads or a power adder or a stroker that eats stock power added engines for breakfast......

But with 100 miles on the car your nuts to do anything that will void your warranty. Let the car get broken in first... wait for a couple thousand on it at least

TOTALY AGREE WITH THIS. I'm waiting a bit longer before I void that powertrain warranty. 6 months of ownership and it's over half way to lemon law. I really hope nothing else happens because I REALLY love this car. If I modded it off the bat, I would have been stuck with a big bill to pay off at the dealership.

[mikeSS]

so many things with such little money. i would just do headers intake tune.

[Bumblebee2012]

I can't wait a couple thousand miles. I'll barely poor a couple thousand in it in a season. I have 7 vehicles, and one is a daily driver.

I also don't wish to over mod this as I plan to keep it only until the next Bumblebee comes out so that I might be able to go with a ZL1 TF4 Bumblebee. My hopes are that I'll see this around 2015.

Also, I feel that there is a strong potential to go nuts and pro charge it next spring. I promised the wife I would not go nuts with this car for one year, actual put it in writing. But a couple grand.... I can slip that past her.

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[Bumblebee2012]

Originally Posted by njdad61

Cold air intake (Rotofab is my preference) - $325, ADM (or JRE or APEX) race scoop - $60, Rotofab W/W Fluid Reservoir Relocation Kit - $100, long tube headers (Doug Thorley 1 7/8 LTs are $670), VMAX CNC ported throttle body - $150, SCT X3 tuner w/ JRE custom tune - $400. A catback has no performance benefit, purely sound.

All of that comes to $1,705. Then buy a short throw shifter or maybe a set of trailing arms and toe rods to help with traction.

This here sounds like a logical solution. I was unaware of the wheel hop issues. My fathers 03 SVT was factory independent, a swapped to a "Bullet Proof 8.8" solid.

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[dshep214]

Headers intake tune. Mbs headers are 299 intake 350 ish tune 250-500. Some room for drop springs as well I have mbs I'm pushing 482rwhp with full bolt ons and cam. No trouble out of them at all

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

LT Headers
Cam
Trailing arms
Drag Radials
Solid Diff and Motor Mounts

In that order.
Ivan

[2010 4 DW]

A6
CAI,JBA Mids,3200-3600 Stall,Tune,

M6
CAI,LT Header,UDP,Tune,

[Darth_Emma]

I'd go with (in this order):

solid subframe bushings
drop springs
trailing arms
headers and cold air intake with tune


A lot of people forget about the suspension mods, but it is extremely important to not get wheel hop when drag racing. Suspension first.

[Thyshallsmite]

"toe bars trailing arms sway bars bushings" These upgrades make the ride any rougher? i drive on some shit roads to work every day and don't really want the ride to get any rougher >

[camslambam]

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