04-16-2019, 02:30 PM | #15 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009
Location: Idaho
Posts: 726
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Taking the old bushings out is easy. installing new poly bushings was 5 times as hard for me.
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GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband
Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA |
04-18-2019, 02:43 PM | #16 |
GPI Sales Consultant
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I'll weigh in - when I first read this I didn't note your signature, and was thinking you probably had a aging weak stock posi. Then, I see you have a true track. I definitely would look into sub-frame bushings. It was transformative for my car, from the first release of the clutch backing it out of the garage after the swap everything felt so much more connected in the driveline. It's in the top 4 mods I recommend for any M6 guys. The change from stock the solid aluminum pegasus bushings was pretty easy.
Do understand that there is more noise potential with these, especially if you run an aggressive diff bushing. They don't cause noise, but the will transfer it - so if you have a noisy diff (which you may not even know at this point) you may find out after installing these. Ask 10 different people that have installed solid subframe bushings and you'll get 10 responds, from it added zero noise up to it sounds like there is a circular saw slicing through a railroad tie in the truck. So, I would shoot the middle and say you could reasonably anticipate a mild/moderate increase in rear end noise.
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04-18-2019, 02:55 PM | #17 |
Drives: '10 ABM 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Iowa
Posts: 71
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excellent response, much appreciated
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Kooks | SW | GPI | BTR | ADM | Bo White TB | BMR | FE6 | Hotchkis | 3.91s | Truetrac | Pegasus
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04-20-2019, 09:25 PM | #18 |
Drives: 2020 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,340
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Yep I must have missed your sig. You are down to installing the solid cradle bushings. This is more true with the 2010, which have the voids and are softer than the 2012+. Not as hard as it sounds, the other guys have good tips. Propane torch, heat as evenly as possible, while pushing up with a jack and a 2x4 placed to put some upward pressure on the cradle to push out the bushing. 1" socket in between.
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2020 ZL1 1LE [Moroso SC Expansion Tank, otherwise stock]
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04-26-2019, 11:16 PM | #19 |
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Also you said you have a 10 SS, check your sway bar mounts and the lower control arms and make sure they have not broken. 10-12' had bad control arm mounts that would split.
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04-27-2019, 08:54 AM | #20 |
Drives: '10 ABM 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Iowa
Posts: 71
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I no longer have the 2010 style sway bars or control arms
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Kooks | SW | GPI | BTR | ADM | Bo White TB | BMR | FE6 | Hotchkis | 3.91s | Truetrac | Pegasus
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04-28-2019, 06:05 AM | #21 |
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Hey another thought, check your upper control arms. My car has made racket when wet outside and the rear end has been a little loose. They found the upper control arms bushing on one side is worn bad. The can move around the control arm.
So new arms going on Tuesday. |
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