Replace timing chain tensioner with LS2 - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

frankwjr · 02-20-2018, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bo White

That TB sure looks good.

Shameless self promotion Bo! LULZ...do I qualify for a discount helpin with marketing?

Bo White · 02-20-2018, 09:24 AM

Maybe. Maybe not lol.

Russell James · 02-20-2018, 10:43 AM

Wonder if anyone has successfully R&R'd the pump without lowering the pan? I've seen claims of it on LS1tech but no details.

Removing the pump guts under the hex bolts. I guess it would depend on if a wrench could be snaked in on that bolt. Maybe someone has Macgyvered an interestingly shaped wrench.

If one could get the pump off/on without dropping the pan, that would simplify changing to a dogbone/C5R chain along with a cam job.

go_go_gadget88 · 02-20-2018, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

If one could get the pump off/on without dropping the pan, that would simplify changing to a dogbone/C5R chain along with a cam job.

I actually tried this recently. Really wanted to avoid dropping the whole pan to get to one bolt. I used a flex end ratcheting wrench to get this bolt out. With pan up there was really no way to snake the wrench to that bolt, and if there was, there wouldn't be much for room to turn the wrench. Also, you'd better have some tiny hands, I couldn't even comfortably get my hand to the bolt and get a good feel on it.

That ~3/4" drop from lowering the pan seems to make ALL the difference in the world. Not saying this is impossible (with some kind of custom tool)...but I don't see how one could reasonably get it out with the pan bolted in place.

sdynak · 02-20-2018, 10:53 AM

Tough call.. I took a real good look at mine before I dropped the pan.. If there is even a way I think it would be more work than dropping the pan.. that is the quick part. Getting the pump off and back on the crank in position is the real challenge with the PU tube in place. I know some have removed the pump guts for more angle room but I didn't have to. With a little patience I was able to get things lined up just enough to get it back on. I also put the bracket in for added precaution.

Russell James · 02-20-2018, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

I actually tried this recently. Really wanted to avoid dropping the whole pan to get to one bolt. I used a flex end ratcheting wrench to get this bolt out. With pan up there was really no way to snake the wrench to that bolt, and if there was, there wouldn't be much for room to turn the wrench. Also, you'd better have some tiny hands, I couldn't even comfortably get my hand to the bolt and get a good feel on it.

That ~3/4" drop from lowering the pan seems to make ALL the difference in the world. Not saying this is impossible (with some kind of custom tool)...but I don't see how one could reasonably get it out with the pan bolted in place.

I saw someone with a truck 5.3L get the pump swapped without lowering the truck pan. Ground a 10 mm box end thinner. Stuff the front with a rag so it doesn’t fall in the pan. Then got the bolt restarted with a magnet, turning it with thin locking hemostats. On some of the 4x4s lowering the pan is impossible.

Next time I have a front cover off I may give it another shot.

sixty9fordkiller · 02-20-2018, 06:02 PM

this guy does it with a hack he came up with. didnt drop the pan

02-20-2018, 09:24 AM	#16
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,041	Maybe. Maybe not lol. __________________ Retired wanna be cylinder head porter 2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X

02-20-2018, 10:53 AM	#19
sdynak Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Bayville, NJ Posts: 936	Tough call.. I took a real good look at mine before I dropped the pan.. If there is even a way I think it would be more work than dropping the pan.. that is the quick part. Getting the pump off and back on the crank in position is the real challenge with the PU tube in place. I know some have removed the pump guts for more angle room but I didn't have to. With a little patience I was able to get things lined up just enough to get it back on. I also put the bracket in for added precaution. Attached Images __________________ 2010 1SS LS3, Black, 235/250, .621/.615, 114 + 4, Kooks Stepped Headers, 3.91's, Bo White PTB, Flowmaster Mufflers, Cold Air Industries CAI, Apex Scoop & Windshield Washer Relocate, SLP Wheels, Skip Shift Eliminate, Barton Flat Stick, OEM HID/Halos, Dyno Tuned by ECS

02-20-2018, 10:43 AM	#17
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Wonder if anyone has successfully R&R'd the pump without lowering the pan? I've seen claims of it on LS1tech but no details. Removing the pump guts under the hex bolts. I guess it would depend on if a wrench could be snaked in on that bolt. Maybe someone has Macgyvered an interestingly shaped wrench. If one could get the pump off/on without dropping the pan, that would simplify changing to a dogbone/C5R chain along with a cam job.