Timing Chain Idler Sprocket bolts

[Davval]

I ordered a new filter cover that will get here on Saturday. Ill replace that first and see if it makes a difference. As far as the black valve in the filter housing I cant seem to find a replacement, the whole filter assembly would have to be replaced. there is also another valve at the bottom of the filter assembly inside the block that I can't find on any diagram

[PaulsSS]

If I remember right the start up rattle is usually caused by the cam phasers not locking into the cams at start up. either the locking pin in the phasers is worn or stuck or the hole in the end of the cam is worn so the pin can't lock in. The phasers have locking pin that work with oil pressure. When the engine is shut off the pins are pushed out by springs. When the engine is running oil pressure forces the pins back into the phasers. These locking pins are for starting the engine, when the engine stops running the pins come out BUT they don't line up perfectly with the holes in the cams. As you crank the engine as the engine moves the pins should instantly line up with the holes in the cam and the engine should start quietly. But if even one doesn't lock up properly you hear a loud rattle as the pin trys to enter the cam. once the engine starts and has oil pressure the pins are retracted and the noise stops. Easy way to test the phaser pins is remove the valve covers and on each cam is flat you can put a wrench on, gently move the cams back and forth with the wrench. Each phaser should lock up to the cam. If any don't lock up either the phaser is worn-dirty-worn pin or the hole in the end of the cam is worn.

[Davval]

Originally Posted by cawengr

I don’t know how to check it as when you remove the cap the anti drain back valve gets released and the oil drains.
You might try pushing the valve by hand and add some oil to see if it drains or not. Holding the valve down should stop the oil from leaving the canister

I was able to verify that before I changed the filter cover, I waited about an hour and when I removed the filter cap, the filter still had a wet ring of oil around it so I am assuming its okay. I managed to change the filter cap and its still the same. My question at this point is with the starter, I've had several issues over the past year where my starter cranks the engine super slow when its cold. I'm pretty sure the starter is going bad or already bad. I had replaced the battery and alternator about a year ago thinking it would fix it but it didn't and I honestly didn't see a change in cranking speed. Would a slow cranking starter have enough rotation speed to prime the oil galleys? this is my last best guess before I remove the front timing cover again and replace the cloyes tensioners with ac delco ones.

[Davval]

Originally Posted by PaulsSS

If I remember right the start up rattle is usually caused by the cam phasers not locking into the cams at start up. either the locking pin in the phasers is worn or stuck or the hole in the end of the cam is worn so the pin can't lock in. The phasers have locking pin that work with oil pressure. When the engine is shut off the pins are pushed out by springs. When the engine is running oil pressure forces the pins back into the phasers. These locking pins are for starting the engine, when the engine stops running the pins come out BUT they don't line up perfectly with the holes in the cams. As you crank the engine as the engine moves the pins should instantly line up with the holes in the cam and the engine should start quietly. But if even one doesn't lock up properly you hear a loud rattle as the pin trys to enter the cam. once the engine starts and has oil pressure the pins are retracted and the noise stops. Easy way to test the phaser pins is remove the valve covers and on each cam is flat you can put a wrench on, gently move the cams back and forth with the wrench. Each phaser should lock up to the cam. If any don't lock up either the phaser is worn-dirty-worn pin or the hole in the end of the cam is worn.

all 4 phasers are brand new ac delco units, they are the newer designed ones so I had to order a different set of thrust washers to compensate for the difference in thickness. I'm going to do a more in depth examination on the weekend with a borescope to see if I can see anything weird before I start taking the intake and valve covers off again.