How to loose 100kg on the Camaro

[dragon22]

Originally Posted by MillerTime

Well before you drop and weight in the camaro...I'd have to find a stock mustang (besides a GT500) that is faster...

[MatchbookSS]

Originally Posted by Padre

What I've done (or got planned) so far:

21 lb Braille Battery: -25lbs
Headers, High Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust: -50 lbs
18" Rims and tires (streetable but mainly for racing): -40 lbs
Misc stuff (trunk stuff, engine covers, etc.) = -25 lbs

So that's 140lbs.

For race days when I trailer, I'll remove the passenger seat and rear seats, probably close to 70 lbs.

Padre

Gotta remember, that the 40lbs you're estimating on losing on your wheels, actually counts for more than that, since you're reducing the dead, rotating mass at the hubs.

Originally Posted by MillerTime

Well before you drop the weight in the camaro...I'd have to find a stock mustang (besides a GT500) that is faster...

Originally Posted by dragon22

Lol. Face it guys, more often than the not, with drivers being equal, the Coyote 5.0 is faster.

[MillerTime]

Lol. Face it guys, more often than the not, with drivers being equal, the Coyote 5.0 is faster.

I'm not in denial... It's a drivers race as far as I'm concerned... I'm a car guy who's partial to the Chevy but I'll admit when I'm beat...and the coyote by itself runs neck and neck with the ls3

[BlissStreet]

See this thread -posts 114 and 119. There is also a thread where Justice Pete outlines the unsprung mass reductions, and Doc's build thread is a good place to see it in action. And some where there is a write up that equates gained HP to every Kg lost. An interesting read, if only because it helps illustrate how gaining HP through weight loss is way more expensive then gaining HP through mods, taking into account that many mods do both.

[Padre]

Originally Posted by BlissStreet

See this thread -posts 114 and 119. There is also a thread where Justice Pete outlines the unsprung mass reductions, and Doc's build thread is a good place to see it in action. And some where there is a write up that equates gained HP to every Kg lost. An interesting read, if only because it helps illustrate how gaining HP through weight loss is way more expensive them gaining HP through mods, taking into account that many mods do both.

Might as well quote it here so people don't have to read through 5 pages when searching.

Doc: You can. But after having done most of what I'd outlined in my post way back when, (except for the CF driveshaft which is in the works) I can tell you that reducing weight is a real task on these cars. There isn't any one big thing you can do that makes a big difference. You have to make several small improvements which incrementally add up to a big difference.

The wheels/tire combo I chose (3-piece forged) weigh 57 lbs each which saved a total of 30 lbs of unsprung rotating weight (URW) for all 4 compared to the stock wheels/tires. The stock fronts weigh 62 lbs, the stock rears weigh 67 lbs.

The brake rotors (2-piece from RacingBrake) saved about 24 lbs of URW for all 4.

I got a set of forged aluminum racing lug nuts which saved just over 2 lbs of URW for all 4 wheels.

I got the Pedders Xa coilovers which saved 20 lbs of unsprung weight for all 4 total.

I got the Pfadt rear trailing arms which are I think about 2 lbs lighter than the stock ones, but their front and rear sport sway bars added 10 lbs.

I have a 1-piece CF driveshaft being built by Driveshaftspecialists but I don't know yet how much lighter that's going to be compared to the stock aluminum 2-piece shaft.

LT headers and high-flow cats can save about 12 lbs of weight from the engine; I'm still thinking about doing this.

I've ordered a Braille battery which will save 30 lbs of weight; the factory battery weighs 45 lbs and the Braille I ordered weighs 15 lbs.

The factory seats with motors, rails and everything weigh about 62 lbs I was told. Lighter racing seats can save weight there too but I haven't decided how far I want to go to reduce weight. Right now my car with a full tank of gas weighs about 3790 lbs. After I install the Braille battery it will be 3760 lbs. I'd like to get it down to 3700 lbs but it's a challenge.

I want my car to be a competent performer but still comfortable to take on a cruise. It's getting there; I hope to have it all done by C5Fest II in April.

Another Forum: Its pretty easy to take weight off the Zeta platform and not look too stripped. I've been able to take off roughly 300lbs without too much effort.

Start with removing the engine covers and misc plastic. -5lbs

Replace battery with lighter version. -20lbs

Replace full OEM exhaust with longtubes, xpipe, and lighter mufflers. -73lbs (30 headers, 24 mufflers, 19 mid pipe)

Back seat as already stated. Bottom doesn't weight much but the back has a few lbs in it. -15

There is a few lbs in the child seat retention system underneath the rear seats. -5lbs.

Lighter wheels as already stated. Could be up to 100lbs depending on how drastic you go.

OnStar box an battery. -5lbs

Trunk Liner. -3lbs

Remove factory speakers and replace with good speakers up front. -10lbs

Hoodliner. - 3lbs

Factory airbox. Replace with aftermarket. -4lbs

Foam block and airpump in trunk. -7lbs

Drain windshield washer tank.

Run a half tank or less of fuel.

Remove floor mats.

Sound deadening under carpet... similar to the old light weight carpet once removed. -10lbs

Mid tunnel brace. -3

Rear subframe weights if you have them. -7lbs

Driver/Passenger seats are heavy 50-60lbs each. Easily replaced with race seats.

I was able to drop from a race weight of 4,000lbs down to the 3,6xx range without replacing the seats just all the little things that add up.

Padre