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Old 11-13-2011, 10:11 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
No just lower it same as inserts; that's how I did my full replacements.
Yep, but I guess my point was that you can't replace the bushings without lowering it. Thanks for clarifying that. (I guess I didn't think there was a difference between "lower" and "drop.")
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:38 PM   #16
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Well we definitely wouldn't assign the same level of performance for this mod as we would our Solid Subframe Mounts... and eventually the sealer may break down, but this isn't a bad idea at all. Although if I was going to the effort of dropping the rear subframe I would probably just install Solid Subframe Mounts and be done with it once and for all.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
Well we definitely wouldn't assign the same level of performance for this mod as we would our Solid Subframe Mounts... and eventually the sealer may break down, but this isn't a bad idea at all. Although if I was going to the effort of dropping the rear subframe I would probably just install Solid Subframe Mounts and be done with it once and for all.
You don't have to remove the cradle for the mod, just lowered it enough to fill the bushings. The 3m sealer is a lot more durable than you think, just try it and post back.
For $50 it is a great improvement over the stock bushing.
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PfadtRacing View Post
Well we definitely wouldn't assign the same level of performance for this mod as we would our Solid Subframe Mounts... and eventually the sealer may break down, but this isn't a bad idea at all. Although if I was going to the effort of dropping the rear subframe I would probably just install Solid Subframe Mounts and be done with it once and for all.
I spent the $700 and put in the Pfadt solid subframe mounts in my own car. However, not everyone has $700 to spend on solid subframe mounts.

I asked the same question about the sealer we put in the car. I am astounded by how hard it is. It can't be broken by bashing it with a sledgehammer.

I think this is a pretty good solution for someone who can do the work themself and who is looking for improved performance without spending a lot of money.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by tkrupinski View Post
You don't have to remove the cradle for the mod, just lowered it enough to fill the bushings. The 3m sealer is a lot more durable than you think, just try it and post back.
For $50 it is a great improvement over the stock bushing.
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Old 11-30-2011, 11:03 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth_Emma View Post
I spent the $700 and put in the Pfadt solid subframe mounts in my own car. However, not everyone has $700 to spend on solid subframe mounts.

I asked the same question about the sealer we put in the car. I am astounded by how hard it is. It can't be broken by bashing it with a sledgehammer.

I think this is a pretty good solution for someone who can do the work themself and who is looking for improved performance without spending a lot of money.
So since you've driven both (solid & the sealer), how to the two compare in the seat?

Or for anyone else that would know, how much better would the full bushings be over the inserts for a lightly modded car (CAI & tune)? Really just want to get rid of the sloppy rear in the corners. Would I need the full bushes, or will the inserts be enough?
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:52 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Parabolica View Post
So since you've driven both (solid & the sealer), how to the two compare in the seat?

Or for anyone else that would know, how much better would the full bushings be over the inserts for a lightly modded car (CAI & tune)? Really just want to get rid of the sloppy rear in the corners. Would I need the full bushes, or will the inserts be enough?
The mod will be similar to the street version inserts and still allow some movement for a little better ride over solid bushings. Just try it and if the performance side is not what you were looking for you are only out 30 to 50 dollars.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:05 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parabolica View Post
So since you've driven both (solid & the sealer), how to the two compare in the seat?

Or for anyone else that would know, how much better would the full bushings be over the inserts for a lightly modded car (CAI & tune)? Really just want to get rid of the sloppy rear in the corners. Would I need the full bushes, or will the inserts be enough?
To answer your question I can not tell a difference between the two on the street. Its a great cheap mod.
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Old 12-11-2011, 06:54 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by tkrupinski View Post
To answer your question I can not tell a difference between the two on the street. Its a great cheap mod.
This is good news!!
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Old 11-10-2012, 01:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
That said it is a step up from the OE deeply NVH voided sub-frame bushes coming close to the new improved OE rubber sub-frame bushes that began coming down the assembly line with the Vert
There are different bushings in the vert? And these bushings perform better than the old ones, even the old ones with inserts?

Please enlighten me.
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:44 AM   #25
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Digging up the dead... for anyone that has done this, how well has it held up? If you had to remove (or wanted to) the bushings, did this make it more difficult?
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:38 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fish-man View Post
Digging up the dead... for anyone that has done this, how well has it held up? If you had to remove (or wanted to) the bushings, did this make it more difficult?
I would also like to know this from a dead thread. Can you use this method on the Differential bushings?

Also, does anyone know the dimensions to machine your own solid bushings?
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Old 04-24-2016, 11:16 PM   #27
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Testing, testing, 1, 2, 3. Anybody know about this microphone?
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