OK, I cant keep quiet anymore...why so much hatred for rotaries?

[The Stig]

Originally Posted by MKG

Do you have any before pics of that car? When i think PC i think slow or applying wax/sealant like I said above. The pics of the vette/Monte Carlo convertible I posted if one was to attack that with a PC you would be there for hours on end trying to get the swirls/oxidation out :(. When someone charges between $60-75 an hour, most people I know wouldnt want to pay those rates for 40hrs of work. A few clients do when doing a concourse pkg, but those arent daily cars, theyre 200g+ collectibles.

I use my pc for doing head light restorations or I use my small 3/4" pads via Makita rotary if they are really bad.

To each their own though. Its nice to hear different opinions on things though.

If I may, very few people on the forum (besides Dylan) own/work for a detailing company. So while you and Dylan have no problems using a rotary (probably due to having thousands of hours behind one), most people on this forum have maybe a hundred hours behind a PC. More experience lets you use more aggressive tools. When I was learning how to shoot as a kid I used a .22 - you start with tools that are forgiving and work your way up.

[FL1CK]

Originally Posted by Iomcamaro

How close are you to DC? I'll be in DC in May for a detailing gig. unless something comes up.

About 2 hours....

[FL1CK]

Originally Posted by stieger

If I may, very few people on the forum (besides Dylan) own/work for a detailing company. So while you and Dylan have no problems using a rotary (probably due to having thousands of hours behind one), most people on this forum have maybe a hundred hours behind a PC. More experience lets you use more aggressive tools. When I was learning how to shoot as a kid I used a .22 - you start with tools that are forgiving and work your way up.

I only have about 100 hours of looking at the PC kits online wishing for the $$ and a garage to work in!

[WiSSDiver]

A lot of good comments as to why use the PC over the Rotary and I agree with all.

OP, thanks for sharing those shots of the cars you've done in the past and yes please share how you got to that point using the Rotary.

I know there are a few us willing to give it a shot. I know I've got a few spots on my 68 that are too deep for the PC, but I might be willing to break out my old Rotary if I can find a decent pad to attacht to it.

Just be ready for alot of questions and if you're willing, be prepared to break it down for us simpletons. :o)

Regardless, not a lot of hate, but just the contrary, we don't want the novices out here to burn through their paint because there just really isn't a way other than logging the hours to get them to that point.

[Angelo@Autopia]

Those pictures from your work looks awesome. I myself have been using a rotary for over 30 years and also the PC for over 12 years. Both have there place in detailing world and a must for anyone starting in detailing business. With so many advance's in chemical's and pads the PC has jump up to the big time in terms in detailing to achieve the perfect finish. For a beginner then I would recommend a PC to start but if they got the cajones to move up then a rotary is the next step for them.

[Adam's Polishes]

Originally Posted by MKG

Do you have any before pics of that car? When i think PC i think slow or applying wax/sealant like I said above. The pics of the vette/Monte Carlo convertible I posted if one was to attack that with a PC you would be there for hours on end trying to get the swirls/oxidation out :(. When someone charges between $60-75 an hour, most people I know wouldnt want to pay those rates for 40hrs of work. A few clients do when doing a concourse pkg, but those arent daily cars, theyre 200g+ collectibles.

I use my pc for doing head light restorations or I use my small 3/4" pads via Makita rotary if they are really bad.

To each their own though. Its nice to hear different opinions on things though.

That particular one... no... didn't take before and afters, but heres a very drastic before and after that was done using only the PC and Flex 3401vrg. Polishing stages only took a day... the rest of the cleanup and detail took much longer.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/de...-ups/12552.htm








or this one... a $2million Packard that went on to take home awards from pebble beach... perfected entirely using a PC 7424 and Flex 3401. This was completed in an afternoon. It has continued thru the show circuit and been judged at numerous concour events where it scores PERFECT numbers in the paint category each time.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/cars/13081.htm

BEFORE:


AFTER:





If you take 40 hours to correct a moderately swirled car with a PC then the technique being used is seriously flawed. If it would legitimately take that long with a PC, then it would definitely be a car that would require a rotary to correct. I can take an 'average' condition car thru the entire process in 8-10 hours total using a DA or RO polisher.

Again... there are situations where a rotary makes the most sense, but thats in the case of someone 'detailing for dollars' with the right training to make proper use of the tool, and a car that requires that level of 'cut' to make the correction. Remember... the vast majority of people here seeking advice have never picked up a machine before or just recently acquired their first machine that wasn't a 10" craftsman bonnet polisher (LOL) so a DA makes the most sense.

Using 2-3 stages of polish on a DA perfection is totally a realistic goal if your technique is solid and doesn't remove anymore material from the surface than is needed. A pro should never excessively thin a clear coat on a clients car, which is an increasingly bigger problem in 'the business'. People pay good money to a guy who jumps in with whatever will get him thru the job the fastest, cutting the clear to such a degree that its thinned too far. The client doesn't know this until the next time they need a detail and the next detailer is left with no material to work or surprise "STRIKE THRU" because the first guy went ape-sh!t with a rotary and heavy compound when a mild pad and polish combo on a DA would have sufficed in the first place.

As the saying goes - always use the least aggressive method to get the job done.

[midnighter]

I have used rotary buffers since I can remember. The pad or bonnet you use as well as the product is what can leave spider webs. Beware of buffing the edges though, ultra thin paint on most of today's cars.

[Iwantone2]

For a beginner, who has never had any experience with polishing machines, it's not recommended to use a rotary on a car...unless said car is in a junkyard and the junkyard owner allowed you to use it for testing.

And there is no hate at all, just some users who want to guide others that are new to polishing.

[Nessal]

Originally Posted by Dylan@Adams

That particular one... no... didn't take before and afters, but heres a very drastic before and after that was done using only the PC and Flex 3401vrg. Polishing stages only took a day... the rest of the cleanup and detail took much longer.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/de...-ups/12552.htm







or this one... a $2million Packard that went on to take home awards from pebble beach... perfected entirely using a PC 7424 and Flex 3401. This was completed in an afternoon. It has continued thru the show circuit and been judged at numerous concour events where it scores PERFECT numbers in the paint category each time.

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/cars/13081.htm

BEFORE:


AFTER:





If you take 40 hours to correct a moderately swirled car with a PC then the technique being used is seriously flawed. If it would legitimately take that long with a PC, then it would definitely be a car that would require a rotary to correct. I can take an 'average' condition car thru the entire process in 8-10 hours total using a DA or RO polisher.

Again... there are situations where a rotary makes the most sense, but thats in the case of someone 'detailing for dollars' with the right training to make proper use of the tool, and a car that requires that level of 'cut' to make the correction. Remember... the vast majority of people here seeking advice have never picked up a machine before or just recently acquired their first machine that wasn't a 10" craftsman bonnet polisher (LOL) so a DA makes the most sense.

Using 2-3 stages of polish on a DA perfection is totally a realistic goal if your technique is solid and doesn't remove anymore material from the surface than is needed. A pro should never excessively thin a clear coat on a clients car, which is an increasingly bigger problem in 'the business'. People pay good money to a guy who jumps in with whatever will get him thru the job the fastest, cutting the clear to such a degree that its thinned too far. The client doesn't know this until the next time they need a detail and the next detailer is left with no material to work or surprise "STRIKE THRU" because the first guy went ape-sh!t with a rotary and heavy compound when a mild pad and polish combo on a DA would have sufficed in the first place.

As the saying goes - always use the least aggressive method to get the job done.

LOL is that a TRAFFIC LIGHT in your garage? That's pretty bad ass.

[Adam's Polishes]

Originally Posted by Nessal

LOL is that a TRAFFIC LIGHT in your garage? That's pretty bad ass.

Actually the customers garage... one of them anyways. He has all kinds of cool stuff in there (and yes it is a real traffic light)

[Coop]

Originally Posted by FL1CK

OP, you answered your own question in each post. If you're begining, you're most likely not going to get the results you want if you start with a rotary polisher as you would with an orbital. It's like riding a bike really... you should start with training wheels before trying without them.

My only issue with detailers on here are no one is close to me to work on my car!!!

I have the same issue with no detailer in the area. I have tried using a pc but am not good at it cause I still cannot get the swirls and spider webs out of my paint.

[Angelo@Autopia]

Originally Posted by Coop

I have the same issue with no detailer in the area. I have tried using a pc but am not good at it cause I still cannot get the swirls and spider webs out of my paint.

Maybe it's the chemicals you are using and wrong pads also. The right product with the right pad should remove them nasty swirls on your ride.

[Adam's Polishes]

"process is more important than product"

This is a saying you'll hear any experienced detailer put out there. Of course good tools and product make the job easier, but if you're not using them in a way that maximizes their potential then you might as well be using the crummy stuff.

[Coop]

Originally Posted by Angelo

Maybe it's the chemicals you are using and wrong pads also. The right product with the right pad should remove them nasty swirls on your ride.

I am using all Adams products.