How low is too low?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

changing the ride height as far as axles (not handling and center lines) should only change the angle about 3-4 degrees, the axles are not straight to begin with and lowering them will put more of an angle but i believe its more of a boot problem than a CV issue. the factory axles have the hard durometer boots that are not very forgiving. we have done numerous road cars with a different style boot that will not only help this issue but we use a much better grease to ensure there is no issue.

MUCH BETTER LUBE!

[StlRomAniaN]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

MUCH BETTER LUBE!

So this much better grease has a higher liquifying temperature? Also, what should be the variation in height between the front and rear? I want the front to be lower, but don't know how much would be good.

[JusticePete]

Yes sir.

This is 558mm with 19s.



Raising the rear 10mm changes the look dramatically.

[bannonm]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

So this much better grease has a higher liquifying temperature? Also, what should be the variation in height between the front and rear? I want the front to be lower, but don't know how much would be good.

http://interparts.com/Grease.htm

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

I want the front to be lower, but don't know how much would be good.

If we are talking about function we have had our best results with a level stance. Typically in road racing you'll see a good amount of rake in the setup. We find that a full weight 5th Gen performs better when weight transfer is more controlled. We campaign street cars driven like race cars so we know what works for our clients.

[bannonm]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

If we are talking about function we have had our best results with a level stance. Typically in road racing you'll see a good amount of rake in the setup. We find that a full weight 5th Gen performs better when weight transfer is more controlled. We campaign street cars driven like race cars so we know what works for our clients.

Pete, is a level stance more important than balanced corners? I'm having mine corner balanced after I get the camber plates put on. Figure if I have to pull the front struts down, might as well adjust the weight distribution.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by bannonm

Pete, is a level stance more important than balanced corners? I'm having mine corner balanced after I get the camber plates put on. Figure if I have to pull the front struts down, might as well adjust the weight distribution.

Great question. SSE 4 2SS brought his 5th Gen to get scaled and aligned. His caged car is so tight that when he sat in the car the corner weights changed so little in relation to each other we had him in and out of the car a couple of times. An OE Camaro is surprising well balanced.

We have a good idea of where we want a 5th Gen to sit at ride height and that is where we start. Make sure the sway bars are disconnected and the tire pressures all equal. A low or high tire shifts weight. If you know what your hot tire pressures are for the track go ahead and use them.

In a race car you always want it to be under weight so when you add lead to make weight you can put it where you want it Most 5th Gen owners won't be adding lead to their cars.

Your alignment should be close to the specs you plan to run on track when you do your initial scale work. You or weight simulating you should be in the car for the scales and alignments.

It is best to do this on an alignment rack where the scales sit on the slip plates.

Raising a corner will increase the load on that corner. Lowering it will reduce the load. As you make changes weight will shift cross corner, side to side and front to back. The objective is to get the weights s even as possible so the tires heat evenly and grip is predictable. Chasing perfection takes time and lost of it. After the first scale adjustments are complete the alignment heads go back and to reset the alignment. Then you are back to the scales to see how the alignment has altered the weights.

With uneven corner heights it is important to have adjustable length endlinks. That is easy up front and in the rear with the old inboard mount sway bar. With the new ZL1 droplinks you have to be a bit more creative. With Pedders droplinks you can just add washers to make one link longer between the red body and the shaped washer that cradles the bush or you can shorten the red red body by cutting it. With the ZL1 OE links adding length with washers is the only option. The key is that when you do attach the links the weights don't change.

Don't chase your tail. Get it close and make sure the alignment is dead nuts on. You may have a perfectly balanced car with one side and ich higher than the other, but the geometry will be off and it won't handle as well as it should. Corner weighting is another way to say your car is balanced. Take a balanced measured approach when using the scales and keep the heights within a safe range of 12mm.

What I have written here is a simplified and practical approach for setup. I hope it helps.

[axis]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Yes sir.

This is 558mm with 19s.



Raising the rear 10mm changes the look dramatically.

She looks a little older than 19.

Also, can you get her to turn around so we can see the dramatic changes made from raising her rear 10mm?

[bannonm]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

What I have written here is a simplified and practical approach for setup. I hope it helps.

Thanks Pete it does. Are they any of your dealers near Chicago area (actually starting an hour south) that can do all this? I'm willing to travel.

My buddy has the scales for his shop but not alignment equipment. They used to build stock cars so they know how to do this, but not specifically on the Camaro. I just want a one stop shop for this and get my car finished before Spring.

[StlRomAniaN]

Let's say that the CV joint would not be a problem, hypothetically. How low of a drop can the shocks/coilovers go before failing?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Let's say that the CV joint would not be a problem, hypothetically. How low of a drop can the shocks/coilovers go before failing?

How you drive has a lot to do with where you want your ride heights.

Do you autocross?
Do you drag race?
Do you road course?
Are you a very aggressive street driver?
Do you like having a little fun on the road and making a statement when you arrive at your destination?
Is optimal performance more important than optimal 'look'?

What is your RWHP?
What wheel and tire package do you run?
What major performance upgrades do you have planned?

[StlRomAniaN]

Very aggressive street driver, RWHP right at 400, OEM Pirelli's.

No more power adders in the near future, just 27 & 32 mm sway bars and bushings.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Very aggressive street driver, RWHP right at 400, OEM Pirelli's.

No more power adders in the near future, just 27 & 32 mm sway bars and bushings.

Any front fascia add ons?

[StlRomAniaN]

No sir.