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#15 | |
![]() Drives: 2009 Corvette Z06 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 556
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#16 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,344
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http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...oduct_Count=20 2. To use Z-18 ClayBar™, you spray a water-based lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the bar back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Z-18 is fairly sticky, and cannot be used dry. If you try using it dry, you'll make a big mess. We suggest mixing one cap full of Z-7 Show Car Wash with water in a 16 ounce spray bottle. Z-6 also works as a lubricant for Z-18 ClayBar, but Z-7 Show Car Wash is much more cost effective. |
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#17 | ||
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Moderator
Drives: '99 Camaro SS #1392 Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Newtown, Pa.
Posts: 3,982
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![]() Well, it seem's you all discussed/answered the soap+water+spray bottle v. the detailer spray w/ clay debate/discussion. ![]() I've found using the car wash+water just as effective as using the spray detailer, but being more cost effective. ![]() Either way is fine. The important part is making sure the area where you're claying is well lubricated. |
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#18 | |
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Iatefiberglassinsulation
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__________________
2010 Chevrolet Camaro SS - was daily driver, now toy
2020 Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio - Daily Driver 2017 Mercedes Benz GLE 350 - Wifes Car 2008 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD LT 6.0 - Tow Vehicle 1991 Alfa Romeo 164S - Project Car 1994 Volkswagen Golf - Race Car "Like" my race team on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/farfrumwinnin |
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#19 |
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As far as I know, the spray detailer is simply a lubricant when used with clay. It won't really make the car look any better than if clayed with soap and water. So soap and water is just a good way to go.
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![]() SoCal Camaro5 Family Member |
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#20 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: aqua 2ss l99 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,215
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keep the clay slippery, constantly knead it so you dont work the contaminents back thru the paint and scratch the hell outta it. dont try and use it sparingly so one jar lasts forever. more clay is cheaper than fixing something you scratched.
as far as factory clearcoat. i want you guys to realize something, when a car is painted aftermarket, it usually goes through a bake cycle of about 140 deg. F. at the factory, i heard rumours that the cars are baked at double that since its only a shell, no electronics or fuel at this time. no interior to burn, etc. you get the point--factory paint is the hardest it will get. unless your talking mercedes benz nano-ceramic clear, now that's a different animal altogether. |
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#21 |
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Camaro Disciple
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I clayed our 5th Gen last week and found a few "dirty" areas to be the horizontal surfaces (the hood and roof). The sides were relatively free of debris.
A friend of mine came over with her 5th gen and we had a "girls day" detailing our cars before our husbands met us at the local Friday night cruise-in. Her car was already very smooth, but the clay got up quite a bit of contaminants. After claying and detailing her Cyber Grey Camaro with Zaino, the blue flake in the paint really "pops". She's now a believer. The first hit is free!
__________________
How the Disciples help Chevrolet and Being a Camaro Disciple
http://modernclassicsauto.com '68 Chevelle Malibu Coupe; '67 Chevelle Wagon; '99 Convertible Camaro SS #0069; '07 Z06; '06 Silverado Crew Cab 2500 4x4 dually; '14 Sonic RS Hatchback |
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#22 |
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Gotta question, If I read correctly, wash the car, & either dry and clay with a detail spray or leave wet and clay as long as it is lubricated, correct so far? The question is do I have to wash again after I clay or can I go straight to waxing after the clay bar? Also I won't be using Zanio, it'll be marguairs (i think proper spelling, hopefully close enough). Thanks, never used clay to clean a car, used to just clean and wax. Oh, wait one more question, is it better to clay before the intial wax, or can I wax it and clay later on? I need to wash the car and I want to do it right, but I'm not sure if Ill be allowed the time to do as soon as I want.
Thanks again. |
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#23 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 7,344
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You must wash after claying to get the clay residue off the car and if you use the soap+water mixture there is a pretty good chance that the soap will dry on the car and you do not want to wax the car while leaving all that on the paint.
Clay before you wax. Waxing will seal in the dirt and grit you want to get rid of and rub it in further plus claying will remove the wax you put on so you will have to wax the car again anyway. |
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#24 |
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Thank you & glad I asked, boy would I have messed that up!
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#25 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 261
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There shouldn't be any mystery to the clay process. Washing your car will remove surface dirt from the finish but it will not remove the embedded particulates. The best way to do that is with clay. Zaino recomendes a first wash with Dawn dish soap to thouroughly remove grease, oil and built-up wax. Then clay the car using Z-6 (car wash) and water mix as a lubricant to remove embedded particulates. Then wash the car with Z-6 to remove any clay particals and Z-6 left behind from the clay process. Now you have a clean surface down to the of the pores of the paint.You can now seal the absolutely clean surface with Z-2 or Z-5. You don't want to seal in rail dust, overspray, soap or dirt particals. Do this right the first time and you will have a perfect finish for the life of the car with only maybe 1 hour reapplying Z-2 or Z-5 every 6-12 months. Do it right once, invest 4-6 hours of your time, the first time and you too will become a believer. The best part is after you are done a simple wash brings it back to looking perfect again.
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2010 Yellow 2SS/RS, L99 Auto, Grey Leather, Polished 20's
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#26 |
![]() Drives: 2009 Corvette Z06 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego
Posts: 556
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#27 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS/RS IOM - A.K.A. DA ;) Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,046
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I have used the Zaino clay bar and polish process on the Camaro and it works great. But many have said that. If anyone has any doubt about how effective clay barring a car is consider this.
Last week I was on the way to work in the rain and I noticed that the wipers on my truck sounded rough on the windshield. I thought, no big deal. It had been a few weeks since I last washed it so it's probably just dirty. I washed it the next day and noticed the water was not sheeting off the hood smoothly. I ran my hand across it and felt this gritty texture on the hood, front fenders and windshield. It was then that I remembered that on the weekend my truck was parked on the street and when I came home from gold both of my neighbours had their driveways spray sealed. Overspray!!! All over the front half of my truck. I was mad!!! What the hell was I going to do!?!? Oil & tar based driveway sealer all over my bermunda blue paint (thank god the Camaro was with me at the golf course). Then I remembered reading the Zaino instructions and how the clay bar supposedly took off overspray. I thought - let's try it. With hardly any more effort than normal, the clay bar took off all the overspray! Glass too! That piece of clay is now garbage b/c it's mostly black from the stuff so I tossed it. That to me is proof, clay bar works!
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"BBOMG - More than just a car show.... It's an experience!" |
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#28 |
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Love's to Detail
Drives: 2010 SS,97silverado/08crewcab Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Greenville SC.
Posts: 1,421
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Yeh, we have very soft paint on these cars,it feels as if its not cured or
dried yet but it is.Be careful when getting bugs off of this kind of paint it sratches easy! |
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