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Old 05-21-2014, 09:46 PM   #15
BruHop
 
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My solution to Mild to Wild. I just hardwired a switch. I leave it off (open) most of the time. I switch it when I am crusing on the freeway. It drops the cabin decibel's while on a long drive. No batteries to worry about.
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:04 AM   #16
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just hardwired a switch.
"Just". LOL. Do you realize the cold sweats most of us 'shade tree mechanics' get when you mention cutting wires?

Nice, clean installation by the way.
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:58 AM   #17
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Thanks!

I believe a 3/4 inch drill bit made the perfect hole. just make sure you place it where there isn't anything blocking behind it. If the switch was any higher or to the right it would have hit something. the most difficult thing was to fish the wire under the carpet from the back seat to the center console
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Old 05-25-2014, 09:17 PM   #18
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Back from vacation from a very relaxing Browne Lake campsite. Will be diving into the electronics soon now.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:10 AM   #19
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I'm waiting to see what you find out about the trickle-drain. I want to be able to control the NPP wireless and this seems to be the way to go.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:51 AM   #20
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I think that would be more difficult as the system is "normally closed" for bi-operation. Pulling the f8 fuse opens this circuit keeping the butterfly open.

This tells me that somewhere further in the cars circuitry is another relay that closes and supplies power to the fuse (or not) when the car computer reads the rpm setting for either mode.

To select closed all the time would have to be done further upstream in the cars harness and likely near the cars computer.

Or power would have to be sourced from the rear fuse block to the f8 fuse that you could control independently, such as from the radio f3 fuse, which is always powered. I would prefer switched power from an ignition sourced feed so the battery isnt drained while the car is off. Maybe this could be done, using one of those ebay remote systems linked above, but we are stacking up alot of remotes now. Or if you wanted just full time closed, a jumper to the lower f8 fuse connection from one of the other switched power sources would do that too.

I am not going to mess with my car electrical to that level tho.
Thanks for the response, interesting. I'll stay tuned to what you find out.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:36 AM   #21
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Does anyone make a NPP controller that allows it to be fully closed on start up?
Yes. ADM Performance make one. It's not cheap but works well. It has two modes; factory and closed at all times (including WOT). It makes a big difference at cold start up and idle especially with LT's. Here's a video. Sorry for the thread hijack.

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Old 05-26-2014, 11:13 AM   #22
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Mark T what canyon is your sig.pic taken in? Im assuming Little Cottonwood,also i will be signing up for Miller soon, are you still running it with me?
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:39 AM   #23
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Yes. ADM Performance make one. It's not cheap but works well. It has two modes; factory and closed at all times (including WOT). It makes a big difference at cold start up and idle especially with LT's. Here's a video. Sorry for the thread hijack.

Awesome! Thank you

Can you order one online?
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:08 PM   #24
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Mark T what canyon is your sig.pic taken in? Im assuming Little Cottonwood,also i will be signing up for Miller soon, are you still running it with me?
That was up on Trappers Loop. Near the ski lodge.

I am looking forward to going to Miller. I havent yet been able to firm up the date yet, but if at all possible I will be there.
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Old 05-26-2014, 01:43 PM   #25
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Not familiar with that. I was born in SLC and come back and ski Snowbird every year. I just assumed that was the Wasatch front.
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Old 05-26-2014, 05:28 PM   #26
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Not familiar with that. I was born in SLC and come back and ski Snowbird every year. I just assumed that was the Wasatch front.
You are partly right. It is the primary road to Snowbasin.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utah_State_Route_167
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Old 06-02-2014, 01:06 PM   #27
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Just got a confirmation email from nekidparts that yes, the RDO F3 fuse connection is just used for state retention of the NPP setting.

I think I am going to switch it up and test-install it for non-retention.

IE, not use the F3 connection, and have the white wire connected to F8 via the m2w connector.
This should eliminate the "trickle-drain" I mentioned above.
It will be interesting to see which state it defaults to on ignition power up.
I will post back when I do this.
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Old 06-04-2014, 08:37 PM   #28
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Hang in there.

I have some new info incomplete.
Just been real busy. This weekend hopefully.
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