CLUTCH FAILURE!!! WTF - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Skylane765 · 07-05-2014, 06:18 PM

Tow it up from the rear. The clutch must be stacked and not letting the pedal come up, it gets parts of the liner on top of other liner. Or a bad master. I see nothing wrong with one tank for break and clutch, it does use the same fluid.

Skylane765 · 07-05-2014, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backtotintops

Just tried it to see if it came back up...nope...now can't even start the car.

The switch should be on the clutch pedal. It will start in neutral ? What happens if you pull the pedal up by hand? It's the cap that leaks on the Z28. I looked at my ZL1 and Z28, the ZL1 is not leaking but fluid starting to turn brown. The Z28 shows a little fluid on the tank.

2010SLVRBULIT · 07-05-2014, 06:42 PM

used clutch fluid should have a burned tinge to it. Check to make sure all fluids(clutch/brake) are getting to the rotors/brakes. Maybe you have air in the lines?

backtotintops · 07-05-2014, 07:17 PM

fluid is same yellow. just tried again and pulled the pedal back up and got it working for about 10 throws but would not start kept trying then got it start once...moved a foot forward and a foot back then shut it off....and I watched the pedal move down on its own this time all the way to the floor...then I grabbed my phone and tried 3 times to catch the possessed pedal in action on video but it would not do it...then it would not turn over and after maybe 5 more tries it started again so I got it in my barn and at least put away now...off to the dealer monday morning. Since it took many tries to start even with a seemingly normal pedal, I'm thinking this might be a contact or sensor issue too. I do have a continuous check engine light though that came on last night as I was limping back home.

BC 2010 · 07-05-2014, 07:31 PM

Check your bleed screw on your clutch slave cylinder it could have loosen up just
enough to lose fluid.

BC 2010 · 07-05-2014, 07:52 PM

I did separate reservoir and IDEAL modified clutch master cylinder two years ago,
then now the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw is loose and leak fluid till I had no
clutch pedal.

oldfriend · 07-05-2014, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BC 2010

I did separate reservoir and IDEAL modified clutch master cylinder two years ago,
then now the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw is loose and leak fluid till I had no
clutch pedal.

Maybe it should have been re tighten at some point , or had a lock washer installed at the time !

jessrayo · 07-05-2014, 09:27 PM

When you bleed the clutch you have to pull the pedal up from the floor with the reservoir cap off. I think you have air in the line and if the cap is leaking fluid it is not holding pressure as well as it should. If you bleed the entire system, clutch and brakes, you should be fine. I always get help when I bleed the clutch because I can't turn the bleeder valve on the top of the trans and mash the pedal at the same time. The car only starts with the clutch pressed in and if the clutch pedal is stuck on the floor it may know it is not pressed in...Take it to your dealer and have them replace the leaky master. They will bleed the lines and get it working fine. If you need a tow just call on-star. My car has been towed many times and no one has wrecked a front spoiler yet. In the future the ideal garage kit for slave and master is a good upgrade. Keeps your brake heat away from the clutch and vice versa.

2SSRS@Gen5diy · 07-06-2014, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backtotintops

AND...my current reservoir cap LEAKS like everyone else is complaining about....sheesh..this is 3 years old at least.

This will all ways leak its not a closed cap, air gets in, if it does that then fluid can get out.

but ones you separate the 2 a lot less fluid will get out, brakes pedal does not move the fluid as fast as the clutch, that's why the cap leaks.

McRat · 07-06-2014, 12:47 PM

OK, at this point, have it towed to dealer via OnStar. Remove all race crap.

"I was driving the car hard, and the clutch stuck to the floor! Please fix it."

Now you will have a fresh clutch.

DO NOT slip the clutch at WOT with TC or SC on. Use high temp fluid. Flush fluid on a regular interval.

Didn't I warn you? This is not even unique to Chevy, but it is a known issue when racing Chevys since 1997. There is not really an engineering fix unless you abolish single disc clutches or manual transmissions. Clutches get stupid hot.

McRat · 07-06-2014, 12:59 PM

Funny sidebar -

With our 2000, the first time the clutch stuck to the floor, I drove it home (with no clutch), then to the dealer. Day one, they got the pedal off the floor.

Next day, I stuck it to the floor again, but it came back up.

I drove to the dealer and left it.

Went to pick it up, and they said "could not replicate".

Day three, I brought it in and ask for the head service writer to ride shotgun.

I did a simulated 1/4 mi pass on a safe commercial street, 10-100mph in about 12 seconds, and the pedal stuck again.

I left it. Next day I picked it up, and on the service ticket, it said "Owner drives car outside the design parameters." REALLLLY? What, I was driving it under water? The car was BONE STOCK on OEM tires!

Took it the dealer who we bought our Vette from, and they replaced the clutch without fkg with me.

backtotintops · 07-06-2014, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by McRat

DO NOT slip the clutch at WOT with TC or SC on. Use high temp fluid.

This may have started the problem when it was hard getting in my driveway when I first got the car but we did flush bleed the brakes with srf but did not know to bleed the clutch.

I have never slipped it at wot though.

I really hope this is just air in the system and not a new clutch.

McRat · 07-06-2014, 02:25 PM

If the pedal ever sticks to the floor, the clutch itself is hosed. Trust me.

Get a new clutch, then upgrade the hydraulics. Fluid + bleeder.

Skylane765 · 07-06-2014, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

This will all ways leak its not a closed cap, air gets in, if it does that then fluid can get out.

but ones you separate the 2 a lot less fluid will get out, brakes pedal does not move the fluid as fast as the clutch, that's why the cap leaks.

Yes, the cap on the brake tank should NOT let air in or fluid out. It has a rubber bladder to keep air out and let the bladder take up the space as the brakes wear. So the cap should never leak unless it's not tight or the bladder has failed. Most all brake res work like that. That's why it good to remove cap and push the rubber bladder back into cap.

Take your cap off and you will see it's not vented. Only time the bladder moves is when the clutch wears or brake pads wear.

07-05-2014, 07:17 PM	#18
backtotintops Drives: 14 Z/28 0# Join Date: May 2013 Location: NY Posts: 773	fluid is same yellow. just tried again and pulled the pedal back up and got it working for about 10 throws but would not start kept trying then got it start once...moved a foot forward and a foot back then shut it off....and I watched the pedal move down on its own this time all the way to the floor...then I grabbed my phone and tried 3 times to catch the possessed pedal in action on video but it would not do it...then it would not turn over and after maybe 5 more tries it started again so I got it in my barn and at least put away now...off to the dealer monday morning. Since it took many tries to start even with a seemingly normal pedal, I'm thinking this might be a contact or sensor issue too. I do have a continuous check engine light though that came on last night as I was limping back home. __________________ "PTM11" Search & Destroy

07-05-2014, 09:27 PM	#22
jessrayo Speed Freak Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Ardmore, OK Posts: 2,637 View My Garage	When you bleed the clutch you have to pull the pedal up from the floor with the reservoir cap off. I think you have air in the line and if the cap is leaking fluid it is not holding pressure as well as it should. If you bleed the entire system, clutch and brakes, you should be fine. I always get help when I bleed the clutch because I can't turn the bleeder valve on the top of the trans and mash the pedal at the same time. The car only starts with the clutch pressed in and if the clutch pedal is stuck on the floor it may know it is not pressed in...Take it to your dealer and have them replace the leaky master. They will bleed the lines and get it working fine. If you need a tow just call on-star. My car has been towed many times and no one has wrecked a front spoiler yet. In the future the ideal garage kit for slave and master is a good upgrade. Keeps your brake heat away from the clutch and vice versa. __________________ 2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq 2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date.

07-06-2014, 12:47 PM	#24
McRat Drives: 2010 ZR1 "Satan" Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Norco, CA Posts: 1,183	OK, at this point, have it towed to dealer via OnStar. Remove all race crap. "I was driving the car hard, and the clutch stuck to the floor! Please fix it." Now you will have a fresh clutch. DO NOT slip the clutch at WOT with TC or SC on. Use high temp fluid. Flush fluid on a regular interval. Didn't I warn you? This is not even unique to Chevy, but it is a known issue when racing Chevys since 1997. There is not really an engineering fix unless you abolish single disc clutches or manual transmissions. Clutches get stupid hot. __________________ 2002 Z06 "Blue Meanie" 11.36 ET 2003 Z06 in progress 2009 CTS-V "Spooky" 12.36 ET, bone stock at 1600 mi. Rainy day in Sacramento. Sadness. 2010 ZR1 "Satan" no times yet. 2013 Volt SCCA Solo2 #771 HS3. And a bunch of Duramaxes.

07-06-2014, 12:59 PM	#25
McRat Drives: 2010 ZR1 "Satan" Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Norco, CA Posts: 1,183	Funny sidebar - With our 2000, the first time the clutch stuck to the floor, I drove it home (with no clutch), then to the dealer. Day one, they got the pedal off the floor. Next day, I stuck it to the floor again, but it came back up. I drove to the dealer and left it. Went to pick it up, and they said "could not replicate". Day three, I brought it in and ask for the head service writer to ride shotgun. I did a simulated 1/4 mi pass on a safe commercial street, 10-100mph in about 12 seconds, and the pedal stuck again. I left it. Next day I picked it up, and on the service ticket, it said "Owner drives car outside the design parameters." REALLLLY? What, I was driving it under water? The car was BONE STOCK on OEM tires! Took it the dealer who we bought our Vette from, and they replaced the clutch without fkg with me. __________________ 2002 Z06 "Blue Meanie" 11.36 ET 2003 Z06 in progress 2009 CTS-V "Spooky" 12.36 ET, bone stock at 1600 mi. Rainy day in Sacramento. Sadness. 2010 ZR1 "Satan" no times yet. 2013 Volt SCCA Solo2 #771 HS3. And a bunch of Duramaxes.

07-06-2014, 02:25 PM	#27
McRat Drives: 2010 ZR1 "Satan" Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Norco, CA Posts: 1,183	If the pedal ever sticks to the floor, the clutch itself is hosed. Trust me. Get a new clutch, then upgrade the hydraulics. Fluid + bleeder. __________________ 2002 Z06 "Blue Meanie" 11.36 ET 2003 Z06 in progress 2009 CTS-V "Spooky" 12.36 ET, bone stock at 1600 mi. Rainy day in Sacramento. Sadness. 2010 ZR1 "Satan" no times yet. 2013 Volt SCCA Solo2 #771 HS3. And a bunch of Duramaxes.

07-05-2014, 06:18 PM	#15
Skylane765 Drives: ZL1-1LE, Z/28 Join Date: May 2012 Location: San Diego Posts: 3,262 View My Garage	Tow it up from the rear. The clutch must be stacked and not letting the pedal come up, it gets parts of the liner on top of other liner. Or a bad master. I see nothing wrong with one tank for break and clutch, it does use the same fluid.

07-05-2014, 06:42 PM	#17
2010SLVRBULIT Drives: G5(LLT) & C6(LS3) Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: MARS Posts: 7,525 View My Garage	used clutch fluid should have a burned tinge to it. Check to make sure all fluids(clutch/brake) are getting to the rotors/brakes. Maybe you have air in the lines?

07-05-2014, 07:31 PM	#19
BC 2010 BC 2010 Drives: 2010 Camaro SIM 2SS/RS M6 GFX SR Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Santa Barbara, CA Posts: 232	Check your bleed screw on your clutch slave cylinder it could have loosen up just enough to lose fluid.

07-05-2014, 07:52 PM	#20
BC 2010 BC 2010 Drives: 2010 Camaro SIM 2SS/RS M6 GFX SR Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Santa Barbara, CA Posts: 232	I did separate reservoir and IDEAL modified clutch master cylinder two years ago, then now the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw is loose and leak fluid till I had no clutch pedal.