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#15 |
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El Duderino
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After reading a huge story about knock retard, ping, deposits and other combustion issues, I am switching to this waterless system. Keeps your engine cooler, and heat is the enemy of almost everything to do with your engine.
Water boils at 212. This stuff... 375. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER JMHO
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#16 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2015 SS/RS M6 Commemorative Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arizona
Posts: 2,197
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#17 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Earth
Posts: 3,904
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! The strangest part was my coolant temp indicator was only showing a few degrees higher than normal, but still in the "normal" range, albeit, my cylinder head was running hot, as was my intake manifold. Hell, even my hood felt too hot! Thankfully, no damage occurred, went back to my tried and tested regimen of 65-70% distilled water / 35-40% OEM coolant / RedLine WaterWetter, that I happily apply to this day. |
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#18 | |
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'It's an experiment'
Drives: [COTW 2/09/15] '11 GPI LSA SC Z/LE Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 8,709
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Quote:
-Don
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747 RWHP 794 RWTQ
"Horsepower sells cars, torque wins races." - Enzo Ferrari See My Build: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=385577 |
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#19 |
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Maybe not the best way, certainly not the quickest way, but the easiest way is to drain the system at the radiator. You'll get about 50% of the fluid out.
Top it off with distilled water; you now have 50% of the old fluid in there. Run the engine with the heater on full blast for a few minutes after the engine gets to operating temp. Let it cool. Hood open and fan underneath helps speed this up. Repeat. On the second fill, you'll have 25% of the old fluid in there. 3rd fill = 12.5% 4th = 6.25% 5th = 3.125% 6th = 1.5625%. <------- 7th = 0.78125% 8th = 0.390625% 9th = 0.1953125% 10th = 0.09765625% You decide when to end the madness. I stop on the 6th fill. The last fill (7th for me) is done with 100% dexcool. Use exactly half the amount listed in the manual. Top off with distilled water. This way gets over 99% of the old stuff out. |
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#20 | |
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El Duderino
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Now they sell an installation kit, that includes tools to see how much water is in the system. And another product to purge your system. Total cost (because you have to buy 3 gallons of purge, and three gallons of coolant and a test kit) for a Camaro is about $250. Then there are discussions about your car actually running a bit hotter (yet more consistent) on average. Also concerns about one of it's selling points which is lack of pressure. Running this, your system never actually pressurizes because it doesn't actually get hot enough to expand enough to cause pressure. Some don't think this is a good thing, although most think it's great. Anyway.... I am going to do a bit more research before I pull the trigger on this stuff.
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#21 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Earth
Posts: 3,904
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-yes, birds and humans can accidentally drink it, and won't die, since it's a different type of glycol. Good thing
-yes, you can use a lower pressure rad cap. Good thing. -yes, you will never have to worry about oxidation and corrosion again. Good thing -all this off top of my head from 2 decades ago. Bad thing -car will run hotter...suggest discussing this with qualified Physics professor,,discussion of specific heat of this glycol vs h20, and heat dissipation from aluminum. This is what I'd truly do, if I was in the scene again. If my observations circa 1999 were skewed because Evans forgot to invent "the installation kit" back then, to remove every single drop of water...lol..wow. |
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#22 | |
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El Duderino
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