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Old 09-30-2015, 08:42 AM   #15
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How much louder are headers, can you tell a difference in power and if I got a shop to install, how many hours would the install take?
There significantly louder. If your stock system is a 4 out of 10 then adding headers without cats make it dam near a 10 I would say. And with high flows a 7 or 8, when under load that is. Normal cruising (under 3500 rpm ) and it's not much different then stock sound, a Tad louder.

Going from a stock vehicle to headers, intake and tune you'll notice a pretty good increase in power. Not only seat of the pants feel but you'll actually pick up 50 or 60 rwhp with those mods.

A professional shop is going to take about 2 to 4 hours to install, depending on there degree of work ethic that day, Lol....

Good luck man and again you really cannot go wrong with stainless power. Gotta be the best bang for the Buck headers available for the ZL1.

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Old 09-30-2015, 08:50 AM   #16
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How much louder are headers, can you tell a difference in power and if I got a shop to install, how many hours would the install take?

It is going to be much louder...no cats and headers...prepare to piss off your neighbors a little bit. My neighbors are noticeably aggitated .

And I run the stock Npp with mild to wild controller
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:01 AM   #17
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Headers are nothing more than pipes. I understand the dilemma choosing a catback - they all sound so different - but headers are just nothing more than bent pipes off the heads. They are nothing special.

Ask yourself if you're going to spend the money on stainless steel (I would). Make sure your headers have merge collectors. After that, buy based on price. I have absolutely no idea why people spend $1,500 on headers that function exactly the same as $700 headers. The only exception I can see is if you are going to go for a stepped header, but you have to ask yourself if 100+% more money is worth 10rwhp at the absolute peak of your powerband.
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Old 09-30-2015, 09:33 AM   #18
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Op you will get more noise with LTs and not all of it good to my ears. A bit raspy and some drone, especially with no cats. The standard NPP and manifold/cats sounds better to me.

So what I did was add a Magnaflow Xpipe to the NPP right where the H pipe is. Problem solved. Cheap fix. The noise drops back down just about to stock levels and no drone with no loss of power.

Also 1 7/8 is the sweet spot for LTs if you ask me. A 2" will add a little more power, but can cause fitment issues.

One other thing, I think your 2012 under body aero may have to be trimmed to fit LTs. Is this true guys? Was this changed for 2014?
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Old 09-30-2015, 10:01 AM   #19
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Can headers be run on stock cats and will they be able to pass emissions test? Also, how much RWHP will headers add. I know the more mods you add the less HP gained, but just trying to get a ball park range and see if the power is worth the price of headers and install.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:34 AM   #20
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I know there is a difference in the belly pan on the 13 vs the 14 I have now. I don't have headers het, so I don't know if it will clear or not.
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Old 09-30-2015, 11:34 AM   #21
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With so many brands and prices, how do you choose what type of headers to install? Why are some better than others and do some offer more power gains?
You ask your favorite speed shop what he uses on his own car

I recommend the Dynatech brand with Dyantech Supercats the only cats designed specifically for supercharged cars.

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Old 09-30-2015, 12:24 PM   #22
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One other thing, I think your 2012 under body aero may have to be trimmed to fit LTs. Is this true guys? Was this changed for 2014?
Correct. 2014 and up belly pans don't need to be trimmed for headers. Earlier models, yes.
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:28 PM   #23
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Correct. 2014 and up belly pans don't need to be trimmed for headers. Earlier models, yes.
Unless you have a convertible like myself. No belly pans on convertibles.

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Old 09-30-2015, 01:01 PM   #24
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The manufacturers will tell you there are no losses with their matching cats. IMO the cats should be put on, they DO reduce emissions and will dampen the sound somewhat.

I personally love American Racing Headers, beautiful finish, awesome fit, merge collectors and velocity spikes in the headers.
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Old 09-30-2015, 01:33 PM   #25
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I would pick a set that is made from T304 stainless and not the cheaper material. i.e. Kooks or ARH
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Old 09-30-2015, 01:52 PM   #26
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Some people love to waste money (kooks, arh) ...,stainless power are 304 Stainless and will last every bit as long as the overpriced headers.


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Old 09-30-2015, 03:20 PM   #27
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Have you seen the guy that bought stainless power headers and had terrible welds done? It looked like a 3 year old did them. The materials might be the same, but the building quality is not. I talked to multiple shops about ceramic coated headers and they all recommended doing it, especially if I plan to add more parts or if I wanted to take it on the track. If I was keeping it in the garage 11 out of 12 months, then it wouldn't be needed, but I bought a ZL1 to drive it. For $150, it was a no brainer, as I plan on doing a lot more next year and taking it to the track.
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Old 09-30-2015, 03:22 PM   #28
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Have you seen the guy that bought stainless power headers and had terrible welds done? It looked like a 3 year old did them. The materials might be the same, but the building quality is not. I talked to multiple shops about ceramic coated headers and they all recommended doing it, especially if I plan to add more parts or if I wanted to take it on the track. If I was keeping it in the garage 11 out of 12 months, then it wouldn't be needed, but I bought a ZL1 to drive it. For $150, it was a no brainer, as I plan on doing a lot more next year and taking it to the track.
I got stainless power and my welds were just as good as any of the kooks or stainless works headers I've seen....
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