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View Poll Results: Which cam for BEST overall performance- drivability/hp/trq
P-233/248 .627"/.612" | LSA 113+5 7 18.92%
B- 233/250 .619"/.595" | LSA 113+5 14 37.84%
T- 235/239 .627"/.624" | LSA 112 16 43.24%
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 02-28-2016, 09:24 PM   #15
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Old 02-28-2016, 10:58 PM   #16
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:51 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHAMMO View Post
Are you trying to use same spec cam for a 7.0l in a 6.2l?? Hope not!!

235 239 is tight with stock heads BTW with an LS3. Other cams going to melt valves/pistons together.
Stock heads and I ran 233/248 with no issues. Driveability was perfectly fine. Engine breaking (rolling to a stop/low mph in gear) in higher gears will no doubtedly cause most aftermarket cams to surge WHEN you throttle back in. if you drop it to the appropriate gear range (1st) you eliminate that headache. Cruising through the city limits at 45mph speed restriction is not an issue in 6th gear with 233/248 .612/.595 AKA BTR Stage 4. Stock 3.45s in the rear...

Ultimately, it will come down to your tune and how much time you or someone else spends on it. In my case, it was 3 pulls and no street tune and it was fine. Just know, if you say "camshaft" and aren't referencing the stock camshaft, at some point you will experience surge. Just part of it.

Last edited by JakeW1990; 02-29-2016 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 02-29-2016, 08:09 AM   #18
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Im about to order the tsp 235/239 cam or the one from martin smallwood thats a 224/240 621/603 113+4 lsa . If i do the tsp 235/239 cam im doing it on a 111 lsa
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:27 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by briancamaross View Post
Im about to order the tsp 235/239 cam or the one from martin smallwood thats a 224/240 621/603 113+4 lsa . If i do the tsp 235/239 cam im doing it on a 111 lsa
Why in the 111? I think i read somewhere, thats theres no issue. Yet again I wasny able to find the dyno chart for that cam. :/
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:31 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by JakeW1990 View Post
Stock heads and I ran 239/248 with no issues. Driveability was perfectly fine. Engine breaking (rolling to a stop/low mph in gear) in higher gears will no doubtedly cause most aftermarket cams to surge WHEN you throttle back in. if you drop it to the appropriate gear range (1st) you eliminate that headache. Cruising through the city limits at 45mph speed restriction is not an issue in 6th gear with 233/248 .612/.595 AKA BTR Stage 4. Stock 3.45s in the rear...

Ultimately, it will come down to your tune and how much time you or someone else spends on it. In my case, it was 3 pulls and no street tune and it was fine. Just know, if you say "camshaft" and aren't referencing the stock camshaft, at some point you will experience surge. Just part of it.
Told my tuner to have it tuned around drivability. That was the main concern of mine. I dont have any issues if it does buck in the lower rpms. Throw it down a gear, or go faster, problem fixed.
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Old 02-29-2016, 01:42 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by RupertPupkin View Post
Told my tuner to have it tuned around drivability. That was the main concern of mine. I dont have any issues if it does buck in the lower rpms. Throw it down a gear, or go faster, problem fixed.
Correct. So what I'd suggest you look into is the duration and LSA of the camshafts. Here is a high view of things:

http://www.compcams.com/Technical/FAQ/LSAproperties.asp

You need to take into consideration your goals. Personally, I believe those other cams have way too much lift for a NA build. I haven't seen dyno charts on them but I'd bet the torque curves are awful compared to similar cam duration with a smaller exhaust lift. NA builds need back pressure; otherwise, the car will feel like a 200hp 4 cylinder trying to push a 4000lb car with long gears- not fun. On the flipside, too much back pressure and it will fall on its face.

For reference, one of the best FI cams out there specs like this:
234/239 .612"/.610" 115+5

That is a cam meant to pull in more air and expel more air because FI is cramming more air into the cylinder for combustion and needs help relieving back pressure because it's parasitic for turbocharger/supercharger/etc.

With that being said, your valve actions are going to be all wrong with 2/3 cams you listed, unless you're going to be forced induction. Yes, they WILL work. But you won't see your best gains.

BTR Stage 4 NA hands down.
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Old 02-29-2016, 04:44 PM   #22
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All of them are soooo good though.. :/. I should average them out.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:10 PM   #23
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Gonna order my cam from martin in a few days the 224/240 621/603 113+4lsa
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:31 PM   #24
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Gonna order my cam from martin in a few days the 224/240 621/603 113+4lsa
What made you choose this cam?
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:23 PM   #25
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Vote UP!!
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:25 PM   #26
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He spec'd it for my set up but still looking at the 235/239 tsp on a 111 lsa
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:28 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by briancamaross View Post
He spec'd it for my set up but still looking at the 235/239 tsp on a 111 lsa
That's the exact cam I have
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:29 PM   #28
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The cam from martin also has .040 gasket to up the compression a few not much from stock 10.4.1 to prolly my guess is like 10.7 which is fine with me .Still not 100 percent sure i want a cam thats gonna go down the track dyno to and i like the chop to my old gto had a good mid size cam and it had some chop and ran 96mph in the 1/8
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