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Old 05-16-2016, 02:11 PM   #15
ytown87

 
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people do realize you should factor in your tq numbers for the clutch more so than the hp numbers right? clutches get rated by the tq numbers they can handle in almost every case

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Originally Posted by jdarc1 View Post
To the OP. I don't know what kind of discount you get but thats a 1600 dollar clutch. Why do that when you can get a new Mcleod RXT for $ 1,200.00.
+1 I got mine for less than $1000 through summit. That was after several issues with them but there are many other aftermarket clutches that will be better for less.
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Old 05-16-2016, 02:57 PM   #16
MSull16
 
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whats the recommended range of power for the stock clutch...?

Almost ready to get serious about turbocharging.
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Old 05-16-2016, 04:07 PM   #17
ytown87

 
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Originally Posted by MSull16 View Post
whats the recommended range of power for the stock clutch...?

Almost ready to get serious about turbocharging.
Really depends how you plan on using it. If you wont be beating on it and you also aren't creeping over that 650-700rwhp rating, you will most likely be able to drive the car just fine for some time until the clutch goes. If you have high tq numbers to match those rwhp numbers, expect it to start slipping sooner than later. But if your car is mainly a dyno queen and not a race car, you should be just fine forever if you aren't beating the mess out of it and staying out of boost.

I had my master slave cylinder go out before my clutch once I got into higher numbers with spray. bolt ons, cam, 100 shot and I didn't have problems then. When we pulled the clutch it still looked decent even with 56k miles on it at the time.
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2008 C6 m6. Carbon creations front/rear carbon fiber wodebody fenders. Carbon fiber hood carbon fiber roof hoop carbon fiber zr1 extreme spoiler. NW 102mm tb. Ported intake manifold. Cometic .040 head gaskets. LG motorsports G6x3 cam. DSX flex fuel sensor. AEM methanol kit. Z06 brakes. Ebiach sway bars. ZR1 rep wheels and Nitto Invo tires. Monster stage 3 twin disc clutch. MGW short shifter. Corbeau race seats. Gforce race harnesses. SLP loudmouth 2 mufflers. Carbon fiber exhaust tips. RPM stage 4 transmission and Stage 3 rear diff. 3.73 gears. Vararam cai. Kooks 1 7/8 headers and x-pipe.
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:19 AM   #18
MSull16
 
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Originally Posted by ytown87 View Post
Really depends how you plan on using it. If you wont be beating on it and you also aren't creeping over that 650-700rwhp rating, you will most likely be able to drive the car just fine for some time until the clutch goes. If you have high tq numbers to match those rwhp numbers, expect it to start slipping sooner than later. But if your car is mainly a dyno queen and not a race car, you should be just fine forever if you aren't beating the mess out of it and staying out of boost.

I had my master slave cylinder go out before my clutch once I got into higher numbers with spray. bolt ons, cam, 100 shot and I didn't have problems then. When we pulled the clutch it still looked decent even with 56k miles on it at the time.
Glad to hear. When I get into performance mods Im not aiming for more than 500-550 rwhp.
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Old 05-17-2016, 12:21 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 1KillerSS View Post
I always try to go way past my goals when it comes to a clutch. If i plan on making 700whp, then I want a clutch that's rated for over 1000whp. Always leave yourself some room.
Very good advise!
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